Solaris Led lighting systems

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Bean, I think this is a dead-end at this point.
Some people in the hobby want quantifiable data upon which to base an opinion, others seems to -want- to believe what they want too believe. And after spending $$K for a fixture or anything for that matter, there is an inherent need for the id or ego to latch onto something, anything by which they can plausibly deny that they may have made a purchase that may/may not perform as well as what they had. This is not a slam at anyone who purchased Solaris, but a known human behavioral response.

If someone specifically wanted a lighting fixture which does not produce killer UV, then they have it. Of course that belies the fact that people have been using killer UV-producing MH for decades, and there are a ton of TOTM's which don't seem to be vast wastelands of irradiated coral stumps... Odd how UV is now unacceptable for successful reefing.

Now spending 3x, 4x, 5x+ as much on a fixture is the 'right' thing too do, as we are providing too much light with MH to begin with?

The PFO fixture is a nice one, however I think a healthy profit could still be made at the $1K price point, and we will undoubtedly see such products in the next 6 months from someone, because the efficiency is almost there, and there are numerous other benefits to LED. The fact that we don't know about actual life span for the LED's is worth considering. What happens when they lose 30% efficiency in a year perhaps, and one needs to increase photoperiod?
Cite circa 2004 (does not indicate time, just temp)- http://www.lrc.rpi.edu/programs/solidstate/pdf/ProjectingUsefulLife.pdf

There are a lot of extraneous reasons why we will see increases in LED efficiency in the near-term future. As they happen, LED's will only become more affordable, and realistic as the main light source in reefing. For now, people should realize they are on the cutting edge, and if they want to pay top dollar for bragging rights, they certainly can.
But please don't expect everyone else to ignore the known data, and jump on the bandwagon. Thats not what reefing is about, accepting or or promulgating.

Haven't looked at Sanjay's site, so don't know if anyone has done a real apples-apples comparison with a more 'normal' 175w MH set-up, but it probably doesn't matter. People will believe what they want to, as they have a vested interest.

If anything, I think while PFO has gotten a jump on the market, they have shot themselves in the foor with the apples-oranges comparison PR, and may have underestimated the average reefers innate desire to delve into the details.

Hopefully they will reassess and provide more realistic comparison data.



<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8925682#post8925682 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
PJF with all due respect... you keep bringing up the same straw arguments. Of course Dana's article mentions UV, it is his number one favorite topic (along with the need to reduce lighting levels in captive reefs).

I am responding to the recent posts by slow-leak in order to clarify the assumptions drawn in the post.

I am responding to the fact that the 250W XM bulb with UV shield is a very poor example of 250W MH lighting. Popular or not, it has crappy PAR that comes in below that of some lower wattage MH and most other 250W bulbs.

Fatal Flaw? The 175W XM 20K comes in with a par of 51, That would make the lamp with the FATAL FLOW more efficient than the SOLARIS!
150W and 175W 10K offerings come in at the 70-90 PPFD mark. Even with their "fatal flaw" they blow the SOLARIS away.

So the "fatal flaw" of the SOLARIS unit is that it is not yet competative with better MH lighting in terms of efficiency (watts per PAR/PUR) if a good MH bulb is chosen.

Nothing is perfect, anything can have a "fatal flaw" sir.

I would add, that you keep saying UV is harmful to coral health, yet the MH bulbs simply do not put out that much UV. You make it sound like somehow we are all killing our coral.

You keep saying the same thing in an attempt to show these units in a good light and MH in a bad light (no pun) and infer that I do not understand. You are not "refuting" a point being made, you are sidetracking the point with fluff.

I am talking about (and grounding) the inflated claims and fallacies that keep circulating about these lighting systems. You are ignoring the conversation and keep saying "yeah but the fatal flaw is....". There is no "fatal flaw" sir. The units operate differently and until the LED units surpass ALL MH units/technology across the board in efficiency and growth, then your "fatal flaw" is nothing more than your own pet peeve based on narrow thinking or interpretation.

Yes, a UV free source would be nice for reef lighting. The SOLARIS is a step in the right direction. As is easily illustrated, it is not the most efficient option and likely will not be for several years. If you have a 250W SE XM 20K with a UV shield and are slightly overlit and have a heat problem, then the SOLARIS unit could be considered as viable energy saver if you keep it in place for 10 years! Your not going to save $113 a month by removing (2) 250W MH bulbs...
 
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I used the word "evil" to compliment (in an adjective way)the "fatal flaw" point of few that jnb keeps putting forth.

sorry, but I lost context - what did I keep putting forth with regard to point of few that jnb keeps..... (as quoted above) Bean?

btw - I am pretty sure that I never said I liked the solaris - if I did I didn't mean to - I am still evaluating it on if it puts out enough light for me - I actually took it out of service for three weeks only too learn that it is possible I concluded that it was not enough light when I may have put too much light to a certain acro with it - so I put it back into service knocking blues % down to 80% to see -

otherwise, the part I love is it runs so cool that my chiller never comes on anymore (all other factors being equal), and it makes a lot less noise (fans) than my other fixtures and I love the way it looks and that is factual
 
I apologize for typing your 3 letter username when I mean to refer to PJF's "fatal flaw" theory. I hope that puts it in a bit better context... I confused your posts with his and in turn responded in manner that is no doubt confusing.

As for my website... We have plenty of partners sir, we do not rely on that website (or any marketing) to generate revenue and have not devoted any time to it for that reason. Satisfied customers and referrals drive the bulk of our business. But thanks for taking the time to check out the website :)
 
JNB & OWSI
I cut my blues back to 85% and day whites to 100% and have notices a spike in growth and deeeeeep color back in some softies. They were lightening up a bit with the day whites and blues both at 100%
 
interesting - I just can't tell where its heading for me - I need to have more patience - I could kick myself for putting the MH fixture back on for two weeks. I had called a reputable marine biologist who studys coral/colors/light and she told me that perhaps I had given this coral (its higher up then anything else in the tank) too much light - I never even thought of this. And I had made it a point to get the most intense light shining right on the coral and was using a long photoperiod. My softies are as happy as ever. Time will tell. I do miss the more intense shimmer a bit but at least this has a lot more than t-5

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8929833#post8929833 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jmchzn
JNB & OWSI
I cut my blues back to 85% and day whites to 100% and have notices a spike in growth and deeeeeep color back in some softies. They were lightening up a bit with the day whites and blues both at 100%
 
jnb
I have this candy cane coral I had to lower down it started to bleach. My clam is in the middle along with acros and they are all kicking ***. My tank is only 24" deep so my guess is 24" is ok for anything I want. I do have a BTA and it seems to like the top. It was near death caught in my friends overflow for a week or so. He ripped it apart to get it out. I took the biggest shred and the thing is back to life like you wouldnt believe. What corals are hurting and how deep is your tank? Bottom line the LEDS will bleach corals just like MH.
 
They may actually "bleach" some of them even more. Remember these are tiny point sources with a fairly high focus. You could think of each bulb the same way you would a "hot spot" from a reflector or the direct radiation from the MH arc. The MH arc is a point source as well, but not focused like the LED is.

Without a PAR meter and some before and after measurements, you may find yourself having to "best guess" ideal placements of different specimens.
 
it is an Acro 10 inches from top - my tank is also 24 inches deep - everything else is fine including another sort of acro under more direct light also 10 inches from water line -

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8930781#post8930781 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jmchzn
jnb
I have this candy cane coral I had to lower down it started to bleach. My clam is in the middle along with acros and they are all kicking ***. My tank is only 24" deep so my guess is 24" is ok for anything I want. I do have a BTA and it seems to like the top. It was near death caught in my friends overflow for a week or so. He ripped it apart to get it out. I took the biggest shred and the thing is back to life like you wouldnt believe. What corals are hurting and how deep is your tank? Bottom line the LEDS will bleach corals just like MH.
 
I noticed the same on the Blue tort I fragged the other day, not bleaching but lighter then under the tank brace where I fragged it from. My Octopus/Frogspawn frags at 20" are loving it. Pocillopora is pink again after about a year of brown, its at about 18". I'm running southern Hemi, about 15 hours and 5 cloud covers. Will watch for signs and try your suggestion, jmchzn, in a few days. This new fixture is great to watch come up and go down, the other one was a little jerky between changes. My Aquatroller III should be here Wed., then I'll be able to chart Temp, pH and ORP to see the little things you miss when you leave the room. As far as I can see the temp is solid, have Ebo's at 79, will set Aquatroller at 77 for winter, so they should quit coming on. Never thought I'ld have use a heater on a reef, especially in the daytime.
 
I think the apogee units are the best bang for the buck... There is a thread around here somewhere that gives all of the details. If you have a local club, you may want to consider asking the board to purchase the meter and "rent" it to the membership for a few bucks each sign out. It is invaluable to anybody that wants to optimize coral placement and keep tabs on bulb life.
 
Please Cite Your Sources As I Have Done

Please Cite Your Sources As I Have Done

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8886433#post8886433 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal

No numbers, no referecne points, just marketing points losely based on science. Thus we have come full circle and are now once again back to the Bullet Points on the side of the box.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8887059#post8887059 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
The UV-A component is not harmful and the "waste" as you call it does cause fluorescence, something that some corals have learned to use to their advantage and something that some humans like to see.
I have thrice cited supporting references for my views. I’d like to see references that support your claims above, specifically your statements that “The UV-A component is not harmful” and that UV is “something that corals have learned to use to their advantage.”

Thanks!
 
I read in "the coral reef VOL 1" Corals have pigment (color) to protect them from UV. UV is harmful thats why corals have vibrant color it's protection. my idiot version but it makes sense in my mind.
 
Can we stop the debate/bashing/mudslinging/technical jargon and just show some growth shots, color pics or polyp extension pics.

I dont think any of us are experts, and some of the experts are not even experts.

The only way to tell if these guys work is if you can prove it with a beautifully growing tank!!

:-)
 
Bright or Not Bright, from looking at all the posted pictures here all can see that there is detail seen in an LED system that is lost under Metal Halide systems. If the Corals flourish under a PFO / Luxeon technology , I will gladly give up brightness if it gives me greater detail in my corals and fish that was lost under a halide system.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8932595#post8932595 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SoMoney
Bright or Not Bright, from looking at all the posted pictures here all can see that there is detail seen in an LED system that is lost under Metal Halide systems.
Thats a new one!

Firstly photos of tanks are in no way worthy of drawing such a conclusion. Eyes and cameras are worlds apart. Furthermore, you may want to check out the photography forum. If you want to put your stock in photos and LED showing more detail than MH, you better look there first. You may be willing to change your mind then.
 
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PJF I have read the sources you have linked to. I simply do not garner the same conclusions from them as you do. I have stated why and do not need "sources" to back it up, as you have provided plenty. We are both reading the same data. You interpret the data as a showing a "fatal flaw" and I do not (at least in the context you put it in).

But more importantly, this really is beside the point. It is a side arguement that you keep bringing up. We were talking about overall efficiency and coral growth. If you read my other posts (including the exchanges between Mark and I), you may get a better feel for my perspective.
 
I'm not talking colors, just detail. I've even sat through a couple lectures on the subject of detail and perceived detail. A sharpness knob on your TV for example. Many people believe that turning the sharpness knob up will sharpen your picture when in fact it adds artificial noise to the edges.

When I see a well lit Metal Halide tank my iris constricts to block a majority of that light. An unfortunate side effect is loss of fine detail outside of direct center of view (Boken effect).

At any rate photography is subjective I'll give you that, but until I see an LED vs Halide side by side stating otherwise, LED Wins the in the detail department.
 
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