Solaris Led lighting systems

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I have a 48" 20K Solaris and my clams are doing great. I have one large Derasa and one Crocea. I recently adjusted my day blues down to 85% to look more natural and brighter. I have been running my lights since the beginning of January.

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The 20K looks great on both your tanks cagntlemn and Amphibious. I think I'm going that route. How's the shimmer on the Solaris? Comparable to MH?
 
PSam,

cagntlemn, is correct about the shimmer. Shimmer with Solaris is enhanced with more surface agitation.

I'm sending you a PM.
 
I have the 36" Solaris and it does shimmer but not with the same intensity as MH. I believe the MH has a more appealing glitter, the lines are sharper and more intense. Solaris looks good but not the same IMO. Maybe because LED is many small point sources vs. a couple of high intensity point sources for MH?

I have also noticed that if you look closely you can almost see the different LED colors especially on a white sand bed- certain spots are very slightly mottled white/blue/green. Not a big deal to me but definitely noticeable upon close inspection.

I still prefer the MH glitter, but the low heat, efficiency and programmability are great benefits for me.
 
my uncle is looking into getting one of these units for his 6' 125 right now we have pcs on it so it would be a big upgrade but first 2 questions. 1 i read somewhere they are going to be updating this soon if so i will hold off untill that but is it ture 2 what is better to get the 13k or the 20k
 
Thanks for the pics they look great....
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9465346#post9465346 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Amphibious
ppht,

I think I've posted way back that my Crocea clams are doing great under the Solaris lights. Here are two pictures of three Crocea clams I've had under the lights since Sept '06.

Clams-11-7-06-1.jpg


The pic above was taken Nov 7, 06.

Clams-1-10-07-1.jpg


The above pic was taken Jan 10, 07.

They have doubled in size since I bought them, two in May and one in July '06.

Dick
 
Use a powerhead or redirect your powerhead closer to the surface water and watch the difference in the shimmer.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9484946#post9484946 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bingsf
I have the 36" Solaris and it does shimmer but not with the same intensity as MH. I believe the MH has a more appealing glitter, the lines are sharper and more intense. Solaris looks good but not the same IMO. Maybe because LED is many small point sources vs. a couple of high intensity point sources for MH?

I have also noticed that if you look closely you can almost see the different LED colors especially on a white sand bed- certain spots are very slightly mottled white/blue/green. Not a big deal to me but definitely noticeable upon close inspection.

I still prefer the MH glitter, but the low heat, efficiency and programmability are great benefits for me.
 
I Love my solaris! I bought the 48" a month ago and I still can't stop playing with it. My tank no longer overheats!!! I had 36" 4x96w pc that I was using from the tank I upgraded from and my tank temp would raise up to 86 in the summer, now my temp stays the same. I play around with the powerheads to get different shimmer effects using lots of surface agitation, and there are so many options for light color and level I still haven't picked a setting and stuck with it! The Solaris is plug and play and is Awwwesome! Well Worth the $.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9493098#post9493098 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by purebullet417
can anyone answer my question from above we want to order soon
I can answer your questions. There is no upgrade planned for the 250 watt that I've heard of and I talk with PFO often. There is a 400 watt version coming out but no date available yet.

Which is better 13K or 20K is a matter of personal prefference. The 20K is going to be a lot more blue but the blue LEDs can be turned down to suit your viewing pleasure. The 13K is going to produce a crisper white light and if you want more blue you would have to supplement with actinic.

Also, if you prefer the white 13K look, you will have a higher PAR reading with the 13K model. If you have the 20K model and program out the blue LEDs until you are at 13k you will have a lower PAR reading.

Personally, I prefer the 20K and have programmed my Blue LEDs down 20% to 80% and I like that look. I couldn't get this look with the 13K.

I hope this answered your questions.

Dick

PS, I'm sending you a PM.
 
Hi Amphibious

I could have sworn that it was discussed that the 20k actually puts out more useable light to the corals - no?


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9493568#post9493568 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Amphibious
I can answer your questions. There is no upgrade planned for the 250 watt that I've heard of and I talk with PFO often. There is a 400 watt version coming out but no date available yet.

Which is better 13K or 20K is a matter of personal prefference. The 20K is going to be a lot more blue but the blue LEDs can be turned down to suit your viewing pleasure. The 13K is going to produce a crisper white light and if you want more blue you would have to supplement with actinic.

Also, if you prefer the white 13K look, you will have a higher PAR reading with the 13K model. If you have the 20K model and program out the blue LEDs until you are at 13k you will have a lower PAR reading.

Personally, I prefer the 20K and have programmed my Blue LEDs down 20% to 80% and I like that look. I couldn't get this look with the 13K.

I hope this answered your questions.

Dick

PS, I'm sending you a PM.
 
wow - the clams look very happy - is the frog spawn as close as it looks to the clams?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9469161#post9469161 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cagntlemn
I have a 48" 20K Solaris and my clams are doing great. I have one large Derasa and one Crocea. I recently adjusted my day blues down to 85% to look more natural and brighter. I have been running my lights since the beginning of January.
TE]
 
lets see comparison of that coral you used to compare some time back.



<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9465346#post9465346 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Amphibious
ppht,

I think I've posted way back that my Crocea clams are doing great under the Solaris lights. Here are two pictures of three Crocea clams I've had under the lights since Sept '06.
 
Yeah, frogspawn is that close in the pictures. But, I moved it to the other side of the tank a couple weeks ago since I didn't like the original placement.
 
I was thinking of getting a 300g tank which will be 96" x 24" x 30" tall. I was going to get two 48" 2-250W 10k MH with 2-110W VHO retrofit kits. It was recommended by some that I should go with 400W MHs. Now I just saw this system and would it work for my tank? I want to have corals, etc. Do I still need a chiller? If it's not enough light I could add a couple MHs on the side. Hopefully this will save on electricity and the space the chiller will take up in my stand.

2-250W 5k MH, 2-110W VHO x2 $599.99 $1,199.98
or
2-400W 14K MH, 2-110W VHO x2 $684.99 $1,369.98
+
1/2 HP Chiller/Heater 1 $1,239.98 $1,239.98

TOTAL $3,809.94

or

72" 20k Solaris LED Fixture 1 $3,199.99
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9551150#post9551150 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by blkdrgn
I was thinking of getting a 300g tank which will be 96" x 24" x 30" tall. I was going to get two 48" 2-250W 10k MH with 2-110W VHO retrofit kits. It was recommended by some that I should go with 400W MHs. Now I just saw this system and would it work for my tank? I want to have corals, etc. Do I still need a chiller? If it's not enough light I could add a couple MHs on the side. Hopefully this will save on electricity and the space the chiller will take up in my stand.

2-250W 5k MH, 2-110W VHO x2 $599.99 $1,199.98
or
2-400W 14K MH, 2-110W VHO x2 $684.99 $1,369.98
+
1/2 HP Chiller/Heater 1 $1,239.98 $1,239.98

TOTAL $3,809.94

or

72" 20k Solaris LED Fixture 1 $3,199.99
I think your on the right track but may want to consider (2) 48" units verse the one 72" for the coverage. I have a 300 gal with the same dimensions you listed and its a little deep to get the penetration you might need for some corals to thrive.
My solution was to layer my rock up like shleves for the corals to sit on thus bringing the corals to the light instead of vise versa.

I cant comment for everyone who has taken the plunge and bought one of these only my own expierience.
I switched from 400 W MH 14k Hamilton to the Solaris 48 in 20k and havent seen anything negative about it but all positive. groth is great, color is nice, heat is no longer an issue with my tank.

I have noticed new color in everything that wasnt present before and to be honest its plug and play.
You can scroll thru this thread and see on going debate over light perameters and alike but for the average joe reefer you wont be disappointed.

I will buy another one soon. My investment is in gaining as close to a maintance free sustainable reef as I can get not convulting my hobby with wiring diagrams and plumbing.

To each is his own. I can enjoy the lower elec. bill thats not debatable. I dont miss the MH at all. Im still trying to understand what is missing when everything is thriving at lower energy consumpton.
Some have I.M.'d me telling me I dont know what Im talkng about this has more of this kind of light and less of that kind, Passing jargon and judgment at the same time. I say whatever, Results dont lie.
 
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