SolaTubes for reef tanks

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ByTor,

The tube materials used in the better tubular skylights supposedly reflect much better than polished aluminum. That's a selling point for SolaTube and SunPipe. What you describe would probably be fine for a short tube, but be prepared for considerable loss through a long one.

You might try purchasing extension tubes from a tubular skylight distributor. I don't think they're very expensive.

For a dome... good luck :). That's probably the most expensive part. The trick is to come up with something you can seal from the weather. For myself, I would never put a DIY hole in my roof. It's much too easy to create leaks.

Also, you'll want to cover and seal the bottom opening. If you get warm humid air up there, it will rain inside during the winter.

Before you decide the price is a killer, you might try pricing them. Considering you get everything you need, a tubular skylight doesn't seem all that expensive. I'd tell you how much mine cost except that's between my builder & his supplier.
 
guess.... I'm gonna stick to my old big bulb.....and I think I had a feeling if this guy must be working with solatubs company....you know how the salesman works.....beside my landlord would kill me if wreck my roof for solatub :D
 
The tubes are finally going in... here's inside our great room. The bottom 3' of tubing isn't installed yet... they'll eventually extend down to the 2x4 near the bottom of the picture. That's about 18" above the top of the tank.

What you're seeing is a trio of 21" Sun Pipes.

The light meter in my camera indicates that a high percentage of the light hitting the top of each tube is coming out the bottom. Not a very precise measurement, but good enough to make me very happy. :D
 
Alright, somebody is doing it that will actually post pics! Thanks SAT!

Weren't you originally going with 13" tubes? Decided to super-size it, eh? :D

Are you still going with a 300 gallon tank? Are you waiting to see on the supplemental lighting? How much heat is coming out of those tubes?

Thanks again,



:D :D :cool:
 
The pair of 13" tubes are going over the ATS... they're not in yet. The 300G gets the 21" tubes. I plan to supplement with a pair of 6' VHO's over the main tank, and I'm not sure yet about the ATS (maybe a 150W HQI).

I have no way to measure the heat, but it feels like sunlight, so I guess a lot of the infrared is coming through. It's better than a typical skylight, or even a window, because it's sealed top and bottom with a huge air space. So the main heat coming in will be radiation, not by conductivity or infiltration. I suspect it's an order of magnitude less heat than from equivalent MH lamps (it certainly won't burn me if I touch it :)).
 
Stuart,

I'd love to see some lux meter readings on that! :) Hrmm...I remember seeing something on RAMR about correlating camera settings w/ lux readings. Lemme see if I can find that...

Shane
 
The trouble with a camera is it's only accurate to 1/2 f-stop, or about 25%. The difference in light between outside and right under the tube seems to be less than that.

Another problem is the light exits the tube at the same angle that it entered. Mid-day, it will go right down into the tank, but early and late it goes out the side. For normal lighting applications, they fix that by putting a semi-opaque dome underneath the tube. That spreads out the light, but also absorbs about 60% of it. I figure the way to deal with this is to build a light box between the tank and the tubes using reflective mylar -- let it bounce until it hits the water. It's possible an egg-crate diffuser will also help.
 
Shane,

Last winter we didn't get enough snow for it to be a problem. Next winter... who knows. My roof is flat and pretty easy to get up on (no ladder required), so one answer is I go clean it off if there's a heavy accumulation. Another answer is the tank can be dark for a few days without too much damage.
 
Very interesting thread! I was wondering how you would keep moisture/condensation off the inside of the dome in the winter time. With the warm tank water and high humidity above the tank will there be a problem of it rising to the top of the tube and condensing on cold winter days/nights?

Regards,
Kevin
 
The bottom of the tube is supposed to be sealed to keep humid air out. Also, the weather stripping between the acrylic dome and the top of the tube is like a brush, which probably allows some ventilation (that weather stripping is well covered by the dome, so no worries about water getting in). With a little luck, the dry outside air will dilute the warmer air inside the tube, resulting in a mix that won't condense. We'll see.

In practice, a little bit of condensation in the dome matter much. I just don't want it to drip down the sides.
 
Good to see this thread picked up again. Nice pictures, As I was driving home the other day Same way I go every day I noticed for the first time a SolaTubes store in a small plaza. I havent had the time to stop and talk but I'm off this friday and If I have the time I may swing by and chat with them.
 
The SolarTubes out here in Tx are sealed pretty good.
My buddy has been using them on his reef since early '96.

He has just torn down his tank and moved to Miami. I believe he's going to do the same out there.

Aquaman, how's the fish stores in Orlando? My wife and I are contemplating a move out there in the next few years. Its all depending on our jobs and the outcome of Home Land Security.

There must be a better selection than here in the desert.

Later...
Ed
 
Ed, there are a few good stores in town and a few crappy stores in town. their are a number of stores in Tampa as well. We have a good reef club here now, 40 or more members now I think and close to $1000 in our treasurery. Alot of reefers here doing the fragging. I hope to be setting up a few outdoor growouts this year, take advantage of all that Florida sunshine ;)
 
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