Solenoid valve question

[jpa0741]

I am wondering if it would be a problem to have constant power to my solenoid valves (from autotopoof.com) so they will be open most of the time. I am thinking of dripping my topoff slow through a kalk reator and will try to match my evaporation rate. It will only shut it off if reaching the float switch. I am not sure if by doing this it would overheat them or ruin them. I thought I read something about this before.

 

[humandrive]

I would assume it would be fine. Just watch the temperatures on the solenoid. Many solenoid valves are set up as energize to open and remain open for years even. That way on the loss of power they fail safe and close.

 

[Eel-byte]

I would use a float vavle in your sump if you have one for dosing your kalk.

 

[jpa0741]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14498225#post14498225 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Eel-byte
I would use a float vavle in your sump if you have one for dosing your kalk.

Why do you suggest this? I have always thought the float switches were more reliable. The kalk will not run through the solenoids. Just ro then to the reactor. I was going to have a float valve on the end just for extra protection.

 

[125G Reefer]

If you run the solenoids constant, they will eventually overheat and fry open.

 

[jpa0741]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14500148#post14500148 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 125G Reefer
If you run the solenoids constant, they will eventually overheat and fry open.

Do you know this for fact? I asked this question on my local forum and am being told it will be no problem. This is a quote from a member that uses them at work " All it does is energize a magnet and being on for long periods should not affect it and more then on off and on off many times."

I am not saying you are wrong. Just trying to find out what is right.

 

[125G Reefer]

Yes, I know this for a fact. I have had solenoids on constant, and had them freeze open. They are correct, it just energizes a COIL, not a magnet, and when that coil get hot enough, the inner hole that holds the post open will warp, hotter than hell. It then freezes up, or will stick severely. I personally would not do it, having been on the receiving end of them freezing open. JMO though.

 

[t.trezona]

There is alot of nonsense in these replys. There are solenoids designed to be energized open and will run that way (without overheating) for years and years. I have one on my system that has worked perfectly for 8 years.

 

[125G Reefer]

Upon further review, I don't see anywhere in this thread about what voltage we are discussing. I am refering to 110v solenoids, I'm guessing that everyone else in here is not. But, thats what happens when specifics are left out.

 

[RobbyG]

+1
I am on my 3rd valve and the other two froze open on my C02. In one case it melted my media as the pH in the reactor dipped. I know your using it for something else but I would agree with 125G, they do get hot and then they sometimes stay locked open. (IMO)

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14506422#post14506422 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 125G Reefer
Yes, I know this for a fact. I have had solenoids on constant, and had them freeze open. They are correct, it just energizes a COIL, not a magnet, and when that coil get hot enough, the inner hole that holds the post open will warp, hotter than hell. It then freezes up, or will stick severely. I personally would not do it, having been on the receiving end of them freezing open. JMO though.

 

[t.trezona]

I am talking about a 1/2" line 110v Hayward Industrial Solenoid that I use on an overflow for my sump. It closes when the power is off and opens when the power comes back on. These solenoids are perfectly reliable for many years. There are others out there that work well also. I also have had multiple solenoids on Milwaukee CO2 regulators that are junk. Replaced them multiple times.

 

[jpa0741]

Anybody here use the solenoids from autotopoff.com? These are the ones in question.

 

[Harry_Fish]

I would tend to think if you just fed your topoff through your
kalk reactor that would be fine (not using the seloniod).

In a tank water mass as large as your the swing
in PH should not be enough to worry about.

Just my 2 cents.

Good Luck

 

[jpa0741]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14510583#post14510583 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Harry_Fish
I would tend to think if you just fed your topoff through your
kalk reactor that would be fine (not using the seloniod).

In a tank water mass as large as your the swing
in PH should not be enough to worry about.

Just my 2 cents.

Good Luck

I use the solenoids know for my topoff. They are hooked directly to my ro unit. I have them on a timer to come on 4 times a day for 5 min or until water level reaches the float switch. Do you think I could keep it like this and just run it through a kalk reactor? This would not add too much kalk at once? This is the way I would like to run it.

I was going to drip directly from my ro through my kalk and have them there to close when the water level reaches the float switches.

 

[RicGio]

Having your RO come on for 5 minutes is going to cause problems. Do a search on TDS creep. I know mine takes a minute or two just to start making good water. If you have a DI after your RO it will burn it out a lot faster.

 

[jpa0741]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14516109#post14516109 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RicGio
Having your RO come on for 5 minutes is going to cause problems. Do a search on TDS creep. I know mine takes a minute or two just to start making good water. If you have a DI after your RO it will burn it out a lot faster.

I am not really worried about that. I have been using this topoff for three years now. It works great. It does come from a pressure holding tank. That is why I put it on a timer. This way it does not cycle on and off all day long. This way it only comes on 4 times a day.