Sound/ Return Problem (PIC)

reefkingdom

In Memoriam
Please help with the two problems.

1. The overflow box is making a lot of noise when the water crashes at the bottom of the overflow???

2. My returns on my tank (see pic below) are siphoning the water back down to the sump when I turn off the pump! Is there any way of stoping this from happening? (In the event that the power goes out, it will flood my sump tank!)

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Don't know about question 1. But for Question 2, you could drill a hole in the returns to keep them from syphoning after a certain depth. My personal preference is to ensure that your sump can handle the drainage when the power is off.

How I did this is I have a 150g rr tank. with a 55g fuge. When I set up the tank, I filled the tank and ran it for about an hour to make sure the water levels were where I wanted them. I marked where the water was then turned off the tank pumps and let it drain back into the sump. Keeping an eye on where it finally leveled off. I then measured the distance from the top to where the water is and made another mark on the fuge. (this was also good for a ATO to put my float switches in to start and stop.

just my .02 cents.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11619215#post11619215 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by demonsp
level looks way low.

I agree, you can use the dursos to adjust up the water in the overflow and the tank respectively.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11619238#post11619238 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jbaty
Don't know about question 1. But for Question 2, you could drill a hole in the returns to keep them from syphoning after a certain depth. My personal preference is to ensure that your sump can handle the drainage when the power is off.

How I did this is I have a 150g rr tank. with a 55g fuge. When I set up the tank, I filled the tank and ran it for about an hour to make sure the water levels were where I wanted them. I marked where the water was then turned off the tank pumps and let it drain back into the sump. Keeping an eye on where it finally leveled off. I then measured the distance from the top to where the water is and made another mark on the fuge. (this was also good for a ATO to put my float switches in to start and stop.

just my .02 cents.
Thanks for your help, I could do that but the problem is I have a Tunze nano skimmer that must be close to the water line and it doesn't exten any further down, so the water levels will need to be about 2" from the top of the sump.

I can't really put my finger on where I have seen this but I remember once seeing some sort of hose or contrapment that had a flap in it and when you blew on way it would go through smoothley but if you blew the opposite the flap would come down and block the hole?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11619677#post11619677 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reefkingdom
Thanks for your help, I could do that but the problem is I have a Tunze nano skimmer that must be close to the water line and it doesn't exten any further down, so the water levels will need to be about 2" from the top of the sump.

I can't really put my finger on where I have seen this but I remember once seeing some sort of hose or contrapment that had a flap in it and when you blew on way it would go through smoothley but if you blew the opposite the flap would come down and block the hole?

I have seen that flap you are talking about, can't find the post. What you can do is get more loc-line and bring your returns up higher.
 
raise your returns causing less water to siphon back, drill a siphon break in them so when the siphon begins once it gets to the hole drilled in the lock line it will stop or use a check valve but from what I here check valves should not be trusted.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11619995#post11619995 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tigerarmy40
raise your returns causing less water to siphon back, drill a siphon break in them so when the siphon begins once it gets to the hole drilled in the lock line it will stop or use a check valve but from what I here check valves should not be trusted.

Where can I get a check valve from? The tank has already been drilled and I'm not going to drill it again.
 
Use a standpipe such as a Durso for problem #1

For problem #2, a check valve is not the best idea. If it fails, (and they regularly do), you still have a problem. You will always drain down to the bottom of the overflow teeth no matter what you do. Position your return outlets so they are also at that same level or just slightly below. Because your return lines enter the tank so low, this will mean you need to have the loc-line go higher than the bulkhead if you get my drift.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11621129#post11621129 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sjm817
Use a standpipe such as a Durso for problem #1

For problem #2, a check valve is not the best idea. If it fails, (and they regularly do), you still have a problem. You will always drain down to the bottom of the overflow teeth no matter what you do. Position your return outlets so they are also at that same level or just slightly below. Because your return lines enter the tank so low, this will mean you need to have the loc-line go higher than the bulkhead if you get my drift.

I agree--check valves are not dependable. The small 1/8 inch hole in one of the loc lines is much more reliable--but you need to inspect them periodically to make sure they are not plugged

Actually everytime you do a water change and shut off the pump you can test if the system works

In your case I would place one loc line close to the surface and one a little lower. Turn the higher loc line over and drill the hole so that when you turn the loc line over again it is covered by the water and not sucking in air.
 
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