Special functions Aq3
- Thread starter reefkeeps
- Start date
You can buy a cable from Curt that plugs into the Mini 8 din connector on the AC3 I/O port. You can then hook up different sensors to the leads from the cable. I made an interface box that has different connections for all of the devices you mention. If you want I can post some pics.
Ken
Ken
the3dwizard
Premium Member
I bought a Serial cable - 8 pin DIN - male - 8 pin DIN - male from an computer store. Cut off one end and then used a volt-ohm meter to map the pins to the wires. TheN wired my float switches to the correct wires. Don't know if the wire colors in the cables are standard but I can list mine incase anyone is interested.
Cheers!
Cheers!
I bought the cable from Neptune since I could not find one in the store, but what 3dwizard suggests would certainly work.
At the back of the aquacontroller manual is a pin out description for the input connector. Be careful, the Pro has a separate input connector (separate from the serial connector). The aquacontroller II has the input connections combined in the serial connection along with the serial data lines. In this example I am describing the ACIIIPro input connector.
Pin 8 on the input connector is the ground and pins 1 through 4 are the signal lines for switch 1 through 4. So, for example, if you short out pins 8 and 1, then the aquacontroller senses that Switch1 is closed. Same thing for shorting pins 8 and 2 as to Switch2, etc...
So, I just made a little hobby box that the cable connects to with 1/8 inch plugs for each of the four signal lines. Pin 8 runs across all 4 plugs internal to the box. I also included a manual switch for each of the plugs so I could close the connection manually in order to test the switch and to make sure my programming is correct so that the aquacontroller takes the correct action based on the closure of the switch.
Here is a picture of the hobby box with the cable that plugs into the aquacontroller and a home made float switch plugged into switch1 on the hobby box.
Here is a close up of the hobby box:
In my case, I use the float switch to close the connection on Switch1 to make sure the water level in my tank does not get too high due to the LitermeterIII dosing pump. The Litermeter is set to dose just the correct amount of evaporation each day, but sometimes it raises the water in the tank too high if evaporation is less (due to days of higher humidity). The code in the aquacontroller will turn off the litermeter when the float switch rises too high closing switch1. The cod ein the aquacontroller looks like this:
If Switch1 CLOSED Then ALM ON
If Switch1 CLOSED Then DOS OFF
I also turn the Alarm on to let me know something is up.
Hope this helps.
Ken
At the back of the aquacontroller manual is a pin out description for the input connector. Be careful, the Pro has a separate input connector (separate from the serial connector). The aquacontroller II has the input connections combined in the serial connection along with the serial data lines. In this example I am describing the ACIIIPro input connector.
Pin 8 on the input connector is the ground and pins 1 through 4 are the signal lines for switch 1 through 4. So, for example, if you short out pins 8 and 1, then the aquacontroller senses that Switch1 is closed. Same thing for shorting pins 8 and 2 as to Switch2, etc...
So, I just made a little hobby box that the cable connects to with 1/8 inch plugs for each of the four signal lines. Pin 8 runs across all 4 plugs internal to the box. I also included a manual switch for each of the plugs so I could close the connection manually in order to test the switch and to make sure my programming is correct so that the aquacontroller takes the correct action based on the closure of the switch.
Here is a picture of the hobby box with the cable that plugs into the aquacontroller and a home made float switch plugged into switch1 on the hobby box.
Here is a close up of the hobby box:
In my case, I use the float switch to close the connection on Switch1 to make sure the water level in my tank does not get too high due to the LitermeterIII dosing pump. The Litermeter is set to dose just the correct amount of evaporation each day, but sometimes it raises the water in the tank too high if evaporation is less (due to days of higher humidity). The code in the aquacontroller will turn off the litermeter when the float switch rises too high closing switch1. The cod ein the aquacontroller looks like this:
If Switch1 CLOSED Then ALM ON
If Switch1 CLOSED Then DOS OFF
I also turn the Alarm on to let me know something is up.
Hope this helps.
Ken
laverda
Well-known member
kattner: Thanks I have read some of them but so far I can't get my wireless bridge working. When I try to set it up, it changes the router settings and then the wireless router does not hook up to the modem. I am pretty computer savvy, but this is over my head really. There are just so many different possible combinations of settings. For all I know my bridge may not work with my router. I will have to just spend a day concentrating on it and call tech support if need be.
reefkeeps, I know that kattners picture will help but this is how I wired the box:
1) the common #8 wire is connected to all the common posts of the toggles - I just jumped one to the next
2) a wire is run from each post on the toggle to the corresponding post on the jack
3) the 1-4 wires from the cable were connected to the non common posts of the toggle.
with this configuration either the toggle or the jack can close the connection on each circuit
1) the common #8 wire is connected to all the common posts of the toggles - I just jumped one to the next
2) a wire is run from each post on the toggle to the corresponding post on the jack
3) the 1-4 wires from the cable were connected to the non common posts of the toggle.
with this configuration either the toggle or the jack can close the connection on each circuit
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