Specific equipment questions regarding my new 45 gal reef tank.

[ColbyWade]

This is my first saltwater tank. I have spent hours upon hours researching and watching videos. I have also been to literally every fish store in the DFW metroplex. I spend a lot of time asking lots of questions so that I could determine who seemed the most credible and experienced before I made the decision on which store will be my go to. I think I have a firm grasp on what I need to do to be successful, but insider information can only help!
I purchased a JBJ 45 gallon rimless. I put 30-35 lbs of live sand, and 40 lbs of fiji live rock. I started with 25 lbs, and a few days later added 15 more when my LFS had a seal issue with a main display and had to break down. The 15 was in a very well established tank for the last 8 years. I have had water in my tank with the pumps running for just over a week now. Is it time to start testing to see if my cycle is complete?
Due to my budget I have not bought a heater yet, but know which one to get. Looks like it's only about $40 and I plan to pick it up this week.
Now on to my main question, I need a light. I have been told about 5 different lights are the "perfect light for my tank." I want the ability to grow all types of coral, and want really good lighting, but don't have the budget to spend $600-800. I was told the AI prime would be perfect, but the paramaters seem like it wont penetrate deep or wide enough. The guy at my LFS, who I want to listen to, told me the prime at first, but now says it wont cut it. My tank is 26.5 inches wide, and both the prime and the hydras say they have a max spread of 24 inches and a recommended spread of only 18. I have budgeted the money for the hydra 26 and the flex mount because my research tells me this is a winner. I think I'm looking at about $450. I did see a DIY mount on YouTube that was made from cheap TV wall mount they bought on amazon. The functionality seemed very convenient.

If anyone would like to give their input or critique my strategy, I would seriously appreciate it.

Btw I tried to upload pictures, but it keeps saying upload failed. I am doing this from my Samsung gs9. Can anyone help with this too?

 

[ColbyWade]

I think I figured out the pictures.

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[Uncle99]

I use VISPARSPECTRA 165 watt LED at 160 delivered by Amazon and that's CDN dollars.
For 24 months now, I grow over 50 corals including SPS and maxi clams.
I only have it set at 30% white, 60% blue....maybe do a search and see what you think.

I'm happy...

Oh and yes, if you have Old live rock, your cycle likley finished...but test please..

 

[lpsouth1978]

Even with well established rock it can take a long time to properly cycle a tank. A properly cycled tank will have lots of bacteria throughout, including deep in the sand bed, and some of these bacteria can take months to develop.

I am certainly not saying you should wait months before adding anything to your system, but a week, under any circumstance other than a transplant of both live rock AND sand from an established system, is too fast for my liking.

As for the lighting, Have you considered 2 x AI primes instead of the Hydra 26. The lights would cost $50 more, but you would save that more than that on the mounts as the mounts for the Prime are cheaper. This way you get the light of the 26 with the spread you want. You would also be able to keep ANYTHING under them.

Just my $0.02.

 

[hkgar]

You've done all the research but not tested the tank for ammonia, nitrites or nitrates? Personally I would add a dead shrimp from the grocery store and see what happens to ammonia.

As for lights, it is all personal preference and each light type has its pros and cons. The best light for SPS would be, IMHO, MH or t5.

Personally I have done LED and am now all T5.

 

[ColbyWade]

I have not bought a test kit yet because I was assuming it would take at least 3 weeks to complete the cycle. That was before I knew I would be getting the previously established rock. I definitely plan to test the water prior to adding anything that is alive to the tank. I am not aware of the dead shrimp method. What is the purpose?

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[ColbyWade]

LPSOUTH I have been told thaler prime won't penetrate deep enough through the water.

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[ColbyWade]

LPSOUTH I have been told that the prime won't penetrate deep enough through the water.

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[lpsouth1978]

LPSOUTH I have been told thaler prime won't penetrate deep enough through the water.

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If your tank was deeper, I could understand, but @ 19" it would be plenty. I had 2 over my 40b (18") and never turned them up beyond 50%. They have an 80 degree lens which helps the light/PAR punch deeper into the tank. I would be comfortable using Primes upto at least 24" depth.

Having 2 of them, you will have a good amount of overlap which will result in even more penetration and PAR. If a Hydra 26 has the penetration, the Primes will as well. It is literally two primes in a single fixture, you just get better spread with the primes because they are further apart.

 

[ColbyWade]

If your tank was deeper, I could understand, but @ 19" it would be plenty. I had 2 over my 40b (18") and never turned them up beyond 50%. They have an 80 degree lens which helps the light/PAR punch deeper into the tank. I would be comfortable using Primes upto at least 24" depth.

Having 2 of them, you will have a good amount of overlap which will result in even more penetration and PAR. If a Hydra 26 has the penetration, the Primes will as well. It is literally two primes in a single fixture, you just get better spread with the primes because they are further apart.

That's a great point. Will two primes sync together? I should be more direct with my question. Can I control them both at the same time with my phone? Or do I have to program them independently?

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[Cliving1]

I have 2 primes synced on my phone. Also, in invest in a heater, or two. As hkgar said, check your parameters. Looking good

 

[ColbyWade]

I have 2 primes synced on my phone. Also, in invest in a heater, or two. As hkgar said, check your parameters. Looking good

Thanks for the update. At my LFS it looks like I will get a 150w heater. The dude said it makes no difference while I'm cycling.

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[lpsouth1978]

You use the myAI app on your phone. It automatically sets one Prime as the "Parent" and one as the "Child". Any adjustment you make is automatically applied to both Primes. It is a pretty easy system and software to learn and use.

 

[ColbyWade]

Once my levels reflect a completed cycle, I plan to do a 50% water change. That same day I plan to add about 8 hermits and 8 snails, a fire shrimp, and an emerald crab. My tank is 45 gallons. Is that too much to add at one time? After that, how long should I wait before adding a fish and a coral?

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[Uncle99]

Go ahead on the add, corals consume nitrate and phosphate so have fun, the caution here is more about stability in parameters, they must mimick NSW values consistently with little fluctuation, corals hate change. I did not add corals until all 8 parameters were on point for 8 weeks tested weekly. After that, each one I put in opened right away and remains that way for 24 months now.

Now fish, they crap that must be processed. For me, 1 a month because I QT for 30 days then add that one to DT, add new one for QT and so on fir 7 months. I started with least agressive and worked my way forward to most, this is safest, but does not guarantee squabble. Shrimps I pop right in.
I don't use crabs at all cause I don't trust them.

By this method, I kept my stability right on point, no change in nitrate (5ppm) and phosphate (.04) which corals need to survive.

 

[lpsouth1978]

When I setup my tank, I actually decided to fully stock all of my fish before adding any corals. This allowed me to ensure that my nitrates stayed low and all other params had time to stabilize. I now have about 10 corals, a BTA, and a Haddoni carpet anemone that are all doing amazing. All well inflated with great polyp extension.

 

[Ccoffel81]

I guess I'm one of the few still using metal halide I would put a 150w hqi with electronic ballast. That's my .02

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[Ccoffel81]

the bulb I would use


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[lpsouth1978]

I guess I'm one of the few still using metal halide I would put a 150w hqi with electronic ballast. That's my .02

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I loved my MH systems and I would still use one if....

I didn't live in Arizona. It is a battle to keep electric costs down to begin with, but add the consumption from running and cooling a MH lit tank, and I think you see where this is going.

I chose to switch to LED because I don't have to worry about the heat they put off and for the controlability.

 

[ColbyWade]

Go ahead on the add, corals consume nitrate and phosphate so have fun, the caution here is more about stability in parameters, they must mimick NSW values consistently with little fluctuation, corals hate change. I did not add corals until all 8 parameters were on point for 8 weeks tested weekly. After that, each one I put in opened right away and remains that way for 24 months now.

Now fish, they crap that must be processed. For me, 1 a month because I QT for 30 days then add that one to DT, add new one for QT and so on fir 7 months. I started with least agressive and worked my way forward to most, this is safest, but does not guarantee squabble. Shrimps I pop right in.
I don't use crabs at all cause I don't trust them.

By this method, I kept my stability right on point, no change in nitrate (5ppm) and phosphate (.04) which corals need to survive.

NSW? I wont be getting my light until around the first of the month. After that I plan on starting with something basic as far as a coral. I like the look of the carpet anemone. Would you suggest that as a good starter?
Do you suggest getting a coral or two before the fish?
If I am getting my fish from my LFS, where I am getting everything else, is it necessary to quarantine? If so, I don't guess I get the purpose in the first place.

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