Specific equipment questions regarding my new 45 gal reef tank.
- Thread starter ColbyWade
- Start date
lpsouth1978
New member
Not to sound overbearing, but....
NOOOOOOOO
I think you will find that most anyone will advise not to put ANY fish in a tank during the cycle. Ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate will build up. Even if you do regular water changes to keep levels low, the fish will be stressed and uncomfortable at best. At worst it will burn their gills, and kill the fish. It is an inhumane practice that is out of date.
Just use a raw shrimp, add pure ammonia to 2ppm, or ghost feed the tank to produce the ammonia. When there is no ammonia or nitrite, add some more and see what happens. If the ammonia does not spike again (or is gone in 24 hours when dosing pure ammonia) your cycle is good and you can start SLOWLY adding fish.
The fish store I like to go to was out of the api master saltwater test kits when I went to get a heater yesterday. Today after working went to the knee that is a little closer to my house to pick one up. Anyways they were out and wanted to sell me the red sea version that is apparently much more accurate. It was a lot more expensive too, but they were out.
They guy was trying g to get me to get a small clown fish in order to get ammonia. He said he put all his fish in his after two days. He really didnt make sense with what he was saying. He also tried to sell me some liquid that speeds up the cycle. Then a ai hydra for more than 50 bucks more than anyone else has it.
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They guy was trying g to get me to get a small clown fish in order to get ammonia. He said he put all his fish in his after two days. He really didnt make sense with what he was saying. He also tried to sell me some liquid that speeds up the cycle. Then a ai hydra for more than 50 bucks more than anyone else has it.
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Most fish stores will tell you that.
As someone that got the API test kit and later upgraded to Salifert kits... I don't recommend it? I use the Red Sea Kit for Calc, Alk, and Mag, and I found it to be quite good.
As others have said, the API test kit is just not accurate. I use Salifert, and the 'range' on Salifert for nitrate for example is as precise as 0 to 0.5, 0.5 to 1, etc... Where as the nitrate test kit for API is 0 to 5, 5-10, and 10-20.
I just would hate to see you buy something only to buy a replacement for it later if you don't like it.
To echo the above don't cycle with live fish.
You will find people in the school of thought that its fine. But there is literally no reason or advantage to doing it. It simply doesn't help you. It DOES WORK. Don't get me wrong, it will most certainly work. But -why-? You can accomplish the same thing by 'ghost feeding' (Throwing food in the tank and letting it rot), putting a hunk of shrimp from the supermarket in and letting it rot, or buying pure ammonia and adding a tiny bit until the cycle is complete.
It all accomplishes the same thing. The goal is to start the bacteria culture and have it able to process your ammonia before you put fish in. Otherwise, you are subjecting your fish to ammonia and making them essentially suffer so that your tank is ready. There simply isn't a reason to do it?
As someone that got the API test kit and later upgraded to Salifert kits... I don't recommend it? I use the Red Sea Kit for Calc, Alk, and Mag, and I found it to be quite good.
As others have said, the API test kit is just not accurate. I use Salifert, and the 'range' on Salifert for nitrate for example is as precise as 0 to 0.5, 0.5 to 1, etc... Where as the nitrate test kit for API is 0 to 5, 5-10, and 10-20.
I just would hate to see you buy something only to buy a replacement for it later if you don't like it.
To echo the above don't cycle with live fish.
You will find people in the school of thought that its fine. But there is literally no reason or advantage to doing it. It simply doesn't help you. It DOES WORK. Don't get me wrong, it will most certainly work. But -why-? You can accomplish the same thing by 'ghost feeding' (Throwing food in the tank and letting it rot), putting a hunk of shrimp from the supermarket in and letting it rot, or buying pure ammonia and adding a tiny bit until the cycle is complete.
It all accomplishes the same thing. The goal is to start the bacteria culture and have it able to process your ammonia before you put fish in. Otherwise, you are subjecting your fish to ammonia and making them essentially suffer so that your tank is ready. There simply isn't a reason to do it?
the red sea master kit is 50, the api kit is 25, personally i'd cough up the extra 25 for a far higher quality test kit. this is something you'll use forever, and the API is literally garbage.
dont use a fish to start your cycle.
the shrimp will go away on its own via decomposition.
dont use a fish to start your cycle.
the shrimp will go away on its own via decomposition.
Colby, there are a large number of questions beginners have answered here.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1031074
One of those starting threads explains how to cycle, but the short answer is you just leave the shrimp.
It will rot and decompose which produces ammonia. This ammonia concentration in the water will eventually result in a population of bacteria feeding on that ammonia coming to exist, and they convert ammonia to nitrite. Once there is a nitrite in the tank, another population of bacteria will begin to bloom that converts nitrite to nitrate.
Nitrate is exported through water changes, or used in the growth of corals (or detrimental algaes!)
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1031074
One of those starting threads explains how to cycle, but the short answer is you just leave the shrimp.
It will rot and decompose which produces ammonia. This ammonia concentration in the water will eventually result in a population of bacteria feeding on that ammonia coming to exist, and they convert ammonia to nitrite. Once there is a nitrite in the tank, another population of bacteria will begin to bloom that converts nitrite to nitrate.
Nitrate is exported through water changes, or used in the growth of corals (or detrimental algaes!)
The shrimp thing seems to be causing concern for you. You can also dose DAILY fish food, just a small pinch every day. monitor ammonia, nitrites, nitrates. Youll first see spikes in ammonia, once those spikes start to go down, youll see spikes in nitrites, once those spikes go down, youll see nitrates. once THOSE spikes go down, you can add A fish.
Some add A fish after the ammonia spikes are gone. As long as you're not getting ammonia spikes any more.
the shrimp method is just a bit lazier. get some shrimp for your next cocktail party, and throw one in there. I've personally never heard any pros/cons for cooked/raw, tail on/tail off although it would make the most sense to go raw fresh and shelled as you're just looking for biological material to break down.
Some add A fish after the ammonia spikes are gone. As long as you're not getting ammonia spikes any more.
the shrimp method is just a bit lazier. get some shrimp for your next cocktail party, and throw one in there. I've personally never heard any pros/cons for cooked/raw, tail on/tail off although it would make the most sense to go raw fresh and shelled as you're just looking for biological material to break down.
Not causing any problems. If I go to central market and ask for a shrimp there are 20 different kinds/styles to choose from. If I go to the grocery store there are still several. I am just trying to make sure to follow proper instructions.
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Yeah i certainly get that, Doesn't seem to matter, but if you want the other option is just dosing daily fish food.
Personally i think that's a great option as it gets people more used to daily monitoring/maintenance of their tank. Lots of folks love the shrimp because you can just toss a shrimp in there and walk away for a few weeks.
Last, I'm pretty sure here in Central WI, I may have two options for shrimp lol!
best advice i can give is to not cheap out on things, spending a few extra bucks on higher *quality* tests are worthwhile. lots of folks love the Hanna meters but at $50 a piece they're a bit pricey, I think the red sea tests are pretty great, perhaps as you run out of a quality test, buy a hanna meter to replace it if you want to go that route.
I'm pretty sure BRS did a video on different tests and compared to Lab quality tests, I'll see if i can find it quick and link
Personally i think that's a great option as it gets people more used to daily monitoring/maintenance of their tank. Lots of folks love the shrimp because you can just toss a shrimp in there and walk away for a few weeks.
Last, I'm pretty sure here in Central WI, I may have two options for shrimp lol!
best advice i can give is to not cheap out on things, spending a few extra bucks on higher *quality* tests are worthwhile. lots of folks love the Hanna meters but at $50 a piece they're a bit pricey, I think the red sea tests are pretty great, perhaps as you run out of a quality test, buy a hanna meter to replace it if you want to go that route.
I'm pretty sure BRS did a video on different tests and compared to Lab quality tests, I'll see if i can find it quick and link
hkgar
Active member
There is a place for your LFS, but being of Scottish descent I buy my test kits online. Check out Bulk reef supply.
lpsouth1978
New member
Mostly looks like sponges and nothing to worry about. There is some hair algae right next to some bub bbn le algae in one of these shots though. Try removing it as carefully as possible without popping the bubbles. If they pop, it can spread spores and grow all over It's not a huge issue, just stay on top of it and you will be fine. I have also found emerald crabs to be very effective against bubble algae.
How tf do I remove it without actually taking the whole rock out? Especially "carefully"?
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lpsouth1978
New member
Get creative. It usually comes off the rock fairly easy. Find a blunt object and try to get under it and pry it off. Or get an emerald crab. He will make short work of them.
It is an algae like any other, it needs nutrients to survive and grow. Eliminate the source and it won't be able to spread. Unfortunately, this is part of the process when having a tank, esp when using live rock. It really is not a big issue and a normal part of reefing.
It is an algae like any other, it needs nutrients to survive and grow. Eliminate the source and it won't be able to spread. Unfortunately, this is part of the process when having a tank, esp when using live rock. It really is not a big issue and a normal part of reefing.
Is it fine to leave it until my cycle is complete? I cant add the crab until then anyways right?
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lpsouth1978
New member
Yes, you wand to wait for your cycle to complete before adding anything to your tank. It looks like you used REAL live rock, so it is to be expected that you will have some of these types of things on it at this point. IME, a lot of the algae, sponges, on other life that came on the rock will not survive in the tank long term, but those that do are mostly beneficial.
