Speck on tang...I'm freaking

Here's a crazy idea, don't know if it's workable for you...

Remove all the coral (including the rock it's encrusted on) to the large brute, set that up to run for a while. Add some extra rock to that brute to get good and populated with bacteria. Then, treat the tank as necessary for ich. When you're confident you've eradicated it, move the fish to a temp holding tank, remove the remaining rock etc from the DT, rebuild it with the newly cycled rock and old stuff you've been keeping in the large brute, then reintroduce fish.

One problem with this - The rock and coral in the brute container will most likely have the offending parasite cyst on it which will get re-introduced when moved back in the DT.
 
If you are going through all this trouble, just restart the tank. Get everything out into buckets - rinse and completely dry all equipment, and restock one-by one after going through treatment.
 
If you are going through all this trouble, just restart the tank. Get everything out into buckets - rinse and completely dry all equipment, and restock one-by one after going through treatment.


You're talking about taking all the rock and completely drying it, all the sand, heaters tanks, protein skimmer, reactors...I have A LOT of stuff...and it prob won't completely dry for a long time....one of the 3 treatments would be easier than that for sure
 
I have bought 1 bottle of ich shield off amazon and it should be here monday, but I'm going to hold on to it. I decided that I'm going to take the coral and inverts out of the tank and hypo the DT. I think it's the least stress on the fish, no chemicals, and it will force me to setup a frag tank and keep it running for the long run.
 
With hypo you have to be careful to get valid salinity readings. On my refractometer calibrated to 1.0264sg, a reading on 1.008 is actually 1.012 - which is not effective.
 
With hypo you have to be careful to get valid salinity readings. On my refractometer calibrated to 1.0264sg, a reading on 1.008 is actually 1.012 - which is not effective.


When doing hypo you should calibrate the refractometer to rodi since it's closer to 1.008. A lot of people think calibrating with 35 solution is what you want to do, but you really want to calibrate the closest to the target sg as possible. The hobby refractometers swing way out the further away from calibration it goes.
 
Have you determined that you actually have ich? That you have had no recent fish introductions suggests that either the tank always had latent ich or it came in on the hammer coral. Not impossible for the latter, of course, but quite unlikely IME. Since ich is not a quick killer, particularly of otherwise acclimated healthy fish, I'd wait a bit and see how things progress. Sometimes the cure is worse than the disease.
 
Have you determined that you actually have ich? That you have had no recent fish introductions suggests that either the tank always had latent ich or it came in on the hammer coral. Not impossible for the latter, of course, but quite unlikely IME. Since ich is not a quick killer, particularly of otherwise acclimated healthy fish, I'd wait a bit and see how things progress. Sometimes the cure is worse than the disease.


Ich definitely came on the hammer coral. I know for a fact that ich was not in my tank before I introduced the hammer. One week after I put the hammer coral in the YT had a white spot on his face. The next day the Royal gramma was flashing. I am so mad at myself for just putting the coral in after such short QT. this is a mistake I will not make agin.

I have bought a 16x16x6 AIO frag tank that should get here by the end of the week. All the coral will go in there and stay there for at least 3 months to make sure that ich does not get back into the DT.
 
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