Syntax1325
Acro Addict
Aqualund,
Nice work!
Nice work!
SPS Color Issues (long w/pictures)
- Thread starter Syntax1325
- Start date
Syntax1325
Acro Addict
I have an update... Even though its been only a couple of results I am starting to see some encouraging results. I ended up throwing caution to the wind and turned my blues up to 100% about a week ago for the middle setting of my lights, about 8 hours... I put the whites down to 30% and maintained a roughly 3/1 intensity ratio... My bottle brush is turning a nice cream color with blue tips along with the Borealis which is doing the same... The mother colonies of both these corals exhibit strong cream color with an intense purple tips... they are looking better. The Cali Tort is turning a strong green with bright blue tips. The Aussie Limeade and Joe are beginning to show signs of color along the encrusted base right next to each polyp.
I'm feeding the fish rather heavily, dosing 1ml of acro power a day and feeding the corals about once to twice a week.
I'll post pictures later on.
I'm feeding the fish rather heavily, dosing 1ml of acro power a day and feeding the corals about once to twice a week.
I'll post pictures later on.
ChrisKirkland
Reef and Coral Fanatic
That combo will most certainly help you with your color issues. Be sure to watch your Nitrate and Phosphate to be sure they aren't getting too high. Personally My PO4 stays at about .05PPM - .08PPM and my Nitrate stays at .5PPM - 1PPM.
Running them right now, they do an amazing job
Syntax1325
Acro Addict
What are you using now?
I've been reading this thread with some interest. If I have detectable nitrates, my PE goes away, as well as growth and color. If I keep my phosphates at the bottom edge of detectable and zero nitrates everything grows like a weed and the coloration is very good.
I had an excellent DIY LED setup, but even though I had the identical spectral coverage as a Radion (long before the Radion) and others, my corals would either just brown and die or grow a little, stop growing, and eventually die out. Some corals like stylophora were OK, granulosa and others were NG. PAR was adjusted correctly as well as my daylight period.
After seeing the results of a university study that was published last year regarding LEDs/MH/T5/plasma that showed a consistent SPS mortality rate under LEDs of 50% or greater, I switched to T5 and was astounded at the difference it made in my tank regarding growth, PE, and color. I'm now growing SPS corals that look as good as some of my local guys that sell frags on Fragswapper for hundreds of dollars.
I think that as LED's get better and better, they will dominate the hobby like T5/MH does now. I'm not sure that we are there yet. So, please post up some progress pics of your tank as things move forward. I'm really interested in how things will go. Otherwise, your original question was extremely well formulated and you received some great answers.
I had an excellent DIY LED setup, but even though I had the identical spectral coverage as a Radion (long before the Radion) and others, my corals would either just brown and die or grow a little, stop growing, and eventually die out. Some corals like stylophora were OK, granulosa and others were NG. PAR was adjusted correctly as well as my daylight period.
After seeing the results of a university study that was published last year regarding LEDs/MH/T5/plasma that showed a consistent SPS mortality rate under LEDs of 50% or greater, I switched to T5 and was astounded at the difference it made in my tank regarding growth, PE, and color. I'm now growing SPS corals that look as good as some of my local guys that sell frags on Fragswapper for hundreds of dollars.
I think that as LED's get better and better, they will dominate the hobby like T5/MH does now. I'm not sure that we are there yet. So, please post up some progress pics of your tank as things move forward. I'm really interested in how things will go. Otherwise, your original question was extremely well formulated and you received some great answers.
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