SPS coloration question

[reef_dude76]

Well, after looking through some of the PAR specs for various bulbs, I am thinking that it might be a good move to change out my hamilton tech 10K 175 halide for an Iwasaki aqua2 14K. It seems like they get more PAR that the hamiltons. I have a complete hood from hamilton, but I don''t see any reason why the ballast shouldn't be able to fire an Iwasaki bulb?

If I should change bulbs, does that mean I need to move the acros I have back down lower in the tank to give them an opportunity to get used to the new bulb. How long does it generally tank to acclimate them to new light spectrums?

 

[DrBDC]

Those Aqua2's get more par/ppfd than most the 250's. I just changed my XM10k's about 4 months ago and I wish I had a higher K value but all the higher k's had lower par. I have to wait a few more months so I don't feel like I'm throwing money away on the bulbs I currently have.

 

[MiddletonMark]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7048969#post7048969 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GatorReefman
I believe those 175 watt metal halides are probably ok for some sps but other sps( especially blue and purple ) seem to require more intensity. I had a purple montipora that was basically tan/brown with little polyp extension under 175's. Once I switched to 250's, they colored up to purple and with good polyp extension.

Ah, the infamous purple digi - which is a total light hog. IMO, not a great example - as IME it's the most light demanding coral of this genus I've found. Compare that to a lot of caps, where people have to place them low to avoid color loss from too much light.

IME, not all corals are this way. My blue hoek and LJ purple-tip had no problem with blue/purple under my 175's.

Water quality, stability of parameters, and water clarity have a huge bit to do with coloration. IMO, with all those 3 in line, my colors when running 175's rivalled my present color under 250's. Growth was slower, but IME color is more tied to water quality, nutrition, and stability than lighting intensity or bulb color.

I'd also add, don't forget about the reflector. My reflector upgrade did a LOT for allowing wider placement of my corals vs. all under the MH.

 

[jay24k]

I disagree with the 400 watt preferred. IMO, you can have too much light. Perhaps with a 20k I would go 400 watt. I think by moving them up, it would definetly help.

IIRC, deepwater acros does not mean it doesn't need much light and pushed near the bottom. Most of my deepwater ones require more light and are near the top and grow much better.

As for coloration, sometimes it can take 1 month, 2 months, and some I've seen several. Just give it time and see how it goes.

Nutrients aren't a bad thing but phosphates are. I've seen several tanks with higher phosphates causing brown corals. J ust because your test says up to .2 could mean it is .3. The reason is it will only register what is in the tank not what is constantly being consumed which means it is higher.

I would upgrade to higher lighting or keep the corals higher and see how it goes. What bulb are you running? The PAR could be horrible.

 

[reef_dude76]

Well, as for perameters. I have some new numbers as of last night.

PO4 0 (the water was crystal clear after waiting the approptiate amount of time before reading the test. Kit is a SeaTest)
Nitrate 0
Nitrite 0
Ammonia 0
pH 8.2
SG 1.024 +/- .001
Temp 82
Calcium 470
Alk 12

Present MH is hamilton technology 10K 175W

 

[reef_dude76]

It seems that the Aqua2 will put out mor PAR than my current 10K from hamilton. So my next concern is will it burn up the gonoporia, frogspawn, and various mushrooms and polyps I have in the tank?

 

[jay24k]

I was never impressed with Hamiliton however I've seen tanks with those bulbs that kept coloration, just poor growth. IMO, I would just keep at it and give the tank a few months. My tank took a few months for the sps to take off and turn to their correct color and that was with a move from a 44 gallon.

Either way, it won't happen over night so I would relax and see how it goes. Perhaps get small frags from people every 2 weeks and see if they keep color/encrust/grow. When the new ones begin growing and staying the same color, you know your tank is matured and good to go.

Some corals that lose their color just won't ever look the same and I've seen some never color back up. Each tank is different. GL.

 

[reef_dude76]

Well, since I have aready bought my lighting setup, is there any reason that I can't switch the bulbs out for ones that have a higher PAR than the Hamilton bulbs? I mean to a certian extent a ballast is a ballast right? As long as you plug 250W bulbs into a ballast rated to run 250W bulbs, you can pretty much run any brand of bulb you want, can't you?

Reason I ask is I may sell my 250W hamilton bulbs on ebay since they are new, and buy something different. Any suggestions as to bulb brands to run in the 250W range? My setup is designed for three so I could run a mix of something.

 

[jay24k]

Most yes. There are a few ballasts that won't support certain bulbs. I would post your brand ballast and then what bulb you are looking at in the lighting forum. You will get plenty of people running similiar setups.

 

[reef_dude76]

I think part of my coloration question/problem is also my lighting spectrum. I noticed last night that the acro I mentioned before, the one that started out blue-green, is still fairly blue green when viewed under my actinic lights. I visited the shop where I bought it and noticed the tank I bought the coral out of is lit with a bluer looking MH than what I am running, maybe a 14K or 20K.

 

[MiddletonMark]

Give it time - though IMO you may run into some problems given the full range of coral you're trying to keep.
IMO, I would focus on SPS-types, or move back to an ideal setup for the Goni/shrooms - but IMO you're stretching what will work well by trying to keep `everything'.

How long have you had these corals? IMO, you're looking for coloration to happen quick - and IME, it happens slowly for the most part. When you've got 1/4-1/2" of new growth on the tips, without coloration - then I'd worry. But until it's put on 1/2" ... that coral is still acclimating.

 

[reef_dude76]

The frogspawn I have had since Christmas.
The Two acros I Bought about the middle of January.
The Montipora I have had since Sept. and the mushrooms startted popping up in the other side, they were not there when I originally bought the piece.
The GSP and various zoos were rescued from a 10 gallon nano that sprung a leak. They have been in the system since December.
The gonoporia was given to me by a friend who realized that he didn't have the right kind of system to keep it, thus it started to recede. I have nursed it back somewhat, but it sure doesn't like the current in my tank. I'd move it, but I don't have another tank to move it to.