SPS dieing at the tips

Ken Hahn

New member
I would appreciate some of you looking over my shoulder and helping me see what I am missing.

I had my latest reef tank setup for about 4 years. It was an upgrade from a 70 to a 225. Many of the corals were 5-8 years old that I had grown from frags and I have been in the hobby a lot longer than that (20+ years).

TankBanner2_04.jpg


I was starting to have an algae problem when the tank got overcrowded with corals and I was neglecting it's maintenance. I did two knee jerk things. One is that I did large water changes with the new (at that time) Oceanic salt and I added a large amount of Phosban to a media bag in the sump even though I had no detectable phosphates to see if it would help knock the algae back.

After a few weeks, I noticed that my large orange and purple rimmed Cap corals were dieing. It did not look like normal bleaching, but rather like the tissue was just slowly dieing and being overtaken with cyano. I then noticed that the tips of some of my SPS corals (mainly acropora) were showing signs of dieing. The tissue would die on the tips and the tips were being overtaken by cyano or algae growth. The rest of the coral looked normal other than the polyp extension was poor. It did not have the looks of normal bottom up RTN and the rate of the die back was very slow (months). After I started to take the problem seriously, I did some on-line research and discovered that early batches of Oceanic salt had some defective mixes that had caused tank crashes. I also discovered that heavy use of iron based phosphate removers had caused large scale SPS crashes. I also recognized that I had some red bugs in the SPS and I treated for them. I changed my salt back to Kent and removed the Phosban, but the die back continued until I lost all SPS corals in my tank. I also lost my large clams and a couple of LPS like a large hammer. My fish, RBTAs, bubble coral, sinularia, ricordia and a few other misc corals survived the crash fine.

I subsequently removed all my live rock and replaced my sand bed in case something bad was going on there or something had gotten into the tank and poisoned it. I cleaned the live rock and replaced about half of it back in the tank. I let the tank run without any new corals for about 6 months in case the issue had been a bacterial infection or something.

With everything seemingly stable, I then did serveral large water changes (totaling about ~150 gal of the 220 gal or so in the system). I vacuumed all the sand to make sure there was no detritus build up and I rebuilt the reef. I cleaned the sump. I replaced the old AB 10K MH bulbs with new 15K XM 400W bulbs. I added a small amount (250ml) of RowaPhos to a Phosban reactor. I replaced all the power heads on the wavemaker with new MJ1200's. I verified that there were no significant stray voltages present in the tank (<1VAC). I added several cupfuls of carbon in the sump. With the large water change-out, the water parameters were all at starting Kent salt values (calcium about 420, Alkalinity around 2.6 / 2.8), salinity at 1.025 and zero nitrates. The calcium reactor is currently left shutdown since there is very little calcium demand in the system and I have been doing large water changes.

I added a couple of 'canary' SPS coral frags to the tank to see how they fared. The Cap died within a couple of weeks. It just slowly faded in color and died. One of the 3 other SPS corals (an Acropora) has started to die back at the tips the same as before. The other two (Teal Millipora and orange Montipora digitata) look OK so far. I'm really starting to scratch my head. I have replaced virtually everything that I can think of. It feels like something is in the water that shouldn't be, but I can't figure out what it is. About the only things still in common with the old setup are the MAG pumps that I use to drive the skimmer (Mag18 on a Bullet2) and two Mag9.5's as return pumps and the heaters. They are all operational and without any corrosion, so I don't think they are a factor. I am running a little bit of iron based phosphate remover, but the quantity is fairly small and the corals were introduced after it had been running on the tank for a few weeks. Also, most people seem to equate a rapid RTN type problem with it's use and not this slow tip down recession that I am seeing. Any other ideas?

The entire tank setup is outlined in an on-line journal. http://www.reefcorner.com/big_tank_journal.htm

It has not been updated recently with the tank crash because the website source files had been corrupted and I am still working to repair them.
 
I have noticed that Issues with Tip Recession in my tank have always been becasue of the use of Phosban or Rowaphos.. I now no longer use either.. Only thing that seemed to stop it was breaking off the dead tips, doing a large water change and adding large amounts of carbon..

James
 
Algaeman, no I am no longer using Oceanic. I have heard that even on a good day, it's alk is pretty low. I have switched back to Kent for my last large water changes.

James, I am going to stop using the Rowaphos altogether and see if that has any affect along with another large water change this weekend. I just find it hard to believe that the small amount that I am using now would cause a problem, but it is possible I suppose. I had previously used the Marc Weiss iron based product without incident years ago. I see you're local to Portland? Perhaps we have met at Upscales somewhere along the line. My tank was patterned after Travis' display tank(now the older one). Looks like yours might have been as well.

Socal1, I haven't measured magnesium levels. I figured they had to reasonable since I have been making fairly large water changes recently and there isn't much in the tank to be sucking it back up. When you were having problems, was your magnesium to low or too high? Not sure what you mean by PE.

--- Ken
 
Yes We probably have met at Upscales... As far as the Phosban /Rowa I have used 1/10th of the recommended in my tank and had issues... Steve locally here also had the same issue with Rowa and tried smaller and smaller amounts and still had the issue... Last I heard he wasnt going to Run it anymore.. but I have said that so many times myself and Try just a little bit and still have issues...

Travis' tank and mine are almost Exact duplicates... 224g 72x24x30 Its a nice size for just about anything... Only hard part is getting to the back of the tank on the bottom if I drop something... You know about our club Site correct? www.pnwmas.org

James
 
I am going to stop using the Rowaphos altogether
I'm using a small amount of phosban because I thought it may have been high po4 causing the tips to die. Did the tips die before adding rowaphos?
 
I echo that recommendation, I never realized how important Mg was until I had the exact same symptoms you did.

I would recommend you get a test kit and do some testing. If you're under 1350, I would increase this asap.


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6524320#post6524320 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by socal1
maybe look at your magnesium level. my tips died off and it was the mag level. is there still PE?
 
James, I didn't know that a local forum had sprung up. I'll have to check it out.

Here's a pic of how the tips looked. Polyp extension had declined, but there was still some.


11637Tankdecline5.jpg


I'll definitely pick up a magnesium test kit and see if it provides any clues as well.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6524862#post6524862 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Illusion
Last I heard he wasn't going to Run it anymore.. but I have said that so many times myself and Try just a little bit and still have issues...

LOL!!! What is it about the GFO products?? They have such a "Lure". I've tried swearing off of 'em several times myself but keep going back. I to suffer Acro damage from them. This last time it affected my Oregon tort :mad2: . Bad tip recession on one of the larger branches. Have d/c'd the GFO. Hopefully it will heal.

Travis uses SeaChem's Phosgard in a TLF reactor. Smart man!!

Dennis
 
A quick update. I got a Salifert Magnesium test kit and it shows 1450, so I am good on magnesium levels. I also threw a polyfilter into the sump to see if a quick color change tells me anything useful.

My next step is to pull the Rowaphos reactor and replace the media with cabon and then do a massive (150 gal) water change. I'll use the heavy draw down on the tank as a chance to pull the Vlamingii Tang and Racoon Butterfly out which I need to do.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6539617#post6539617 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by orientalexpress
i had the same problem i loss all my sps and i just starting all over again.gl

lapsan

Did you trace your problem to anything specific?
 
Tagging along b/c I am having similar problem with 2 tenuis colonies. 2 mille's are looking a little bleached as well. This started about a week ago. Just for the record, the other tips have definitely lost color but thet still have flesh on them...Run some kent phosphate spnge (no change) and a large mesh bag of carbon in sump...
 
Here's an update on my status.

I moved the acropora frag that was dieing at the tips and placed it into my tank I keep at work (15 gal, 150W 15K DE pendant, recently cleaned up with a 100% water change with Kent salt and running RowaPhos as well in a media bag). The die-back stopped immediately. This makes me think it is less likely to be the rowaPhos that is causing my problem or a bacterial infection of some kind.

During this same time, on the 225 gallon tank I had removed the RowaPhos and replaced 140 gallon of the ~220 gallons in the system with new Kent salt. I filled the reactor with Carbon in place of the RowaPhos. I also removed a 9" Vlamingii tang and Racoon butterfly to lower the bioload for algae control. After about a week, I moved the Acropora frag back to this tank and it is showing signs of die back at the tips again along with less PE.

So at this point, I am pretty stumped. My RBTAs are doing great and continue to reproduce like rabbits to the point that I'm wondering how I can control them. I also have a few soft corals like Sarcs in the tank that look great. The fish which I have had for 1 to 10 years all continue to be healthy (Copperband, Hippo Tang, Kole Tang, Yellow Tang, Percs, Chromis, lawnmower, Royal Gramma. )

I also double-checked water levels again and I got Nitrates, nitrites, ammonia and phophate all zero. Calcium 360, Alk 2.8, Magnesium 1450. Calcium and Alk are a little low for SPS, but nothing serious. I couldn't measure pH as my probe recently broke, but back when this problem started, it was running in the range of 7.8 at night to 8.3 during the day.

As a possible clue, I decided to add a Foxface rabbit fish to help with the algae control since I removed the RowaPhos. He never came out of the rocks to eat and was hounded a bit by my Copperband Butterfly and soon parished. I decided to then try a little larger scribbled rabbitfish, verified that he was feeding well, had been in the display tank for a number of weeks, etc. When I put him into my 225, he did not eat. None of the other fish seemed to pay him any attention, but within a day or two, he was looking listless at the bottom of the tank and breathing heavily. I setup a hospital tank with fresh water and transfered him to that the next day, but he still died that night. Really makes me think there is something getting into the water that is killing the SPS corals and clams and perhaps shocking new fish that aren't acclimated to it. I just can't figure out what it may be.

Plan B is to have really large RBTA dedicated tank (with a few softies thrown in) and call it good.

--- Ken
 
The thing that primarily sticks out to me is the salt mix changes. Switching salt mixes, as you probably know, is often very stressful on delicate animals such as sea stars and SPS corals. Pick one salt and stick w/ it. One that can be easily balanced before use is best ie. lower concentrations than desired for Alk or Ca can easily be bumped up but not down.
 
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