sps freaks???? Please help me with mine!

[ryanhayes96]

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=9933806#post9933806

please read through the entire post and read the levels on post 25. I am stumped, any suggestions?

 

[cham]

Before I even read the repsonces I thought to mysef "its either alk or P04"

Those are usually the two that will do that.

 

[skinnyjoe1976]

seems that the other tread has you covered. did you let them know that you were trying to see how sps did under t5's? and what kits are you using? need to use salifert or better. take the water to marcye and have them test it. always better for 2 results just in case. and by the way you are turning the tank over 3375 gph. i thought i was bad?

 

[ryanhayes96]

is a 45 X turnover bad?

 

[cham]

I run a very conservative estimate of 5500 gph in my 110.

From what I understand, as long as you aren't directly blasting your corals with the nozel of a PH it is ok.

Alot of the SPS guys think I am on the low side.
I think those guys are nuts.

 

[skinnyjoe1976]

i'm flowing 1850 in a 20 gallon of 350 return from sump, 700 closed loop, and 2 korlia number 1"s rated at 800 and no ill effects except my wife's hammer coral, but has no direct contact. and again what is too much? lighting ime can burn but i was running (2) 250 mh and (2)75 watt vho's on a 65 gallon and burned the caps. with 10 watts a gallon is to much for stuff at the top. i'm really wondering if water chem being off is not your only concern. if the corals came from mh's and now there under t5's i would think they would take time to adjust under perfect water chem and since you alk and calcium are off and possibly phosphates that could be the whole concern. flow should not be. you and seth seem to have the same problem in general keeping sps in your tanks. i suggest taking the sps to a person that will house them for you and get them back to health and get your chem right and then let someone else try the t5 vs mh and then make you lighting choices. not trying to say that sps cant live under t5's but do think that your water has to be stable and never change before you try sps. jmo

 

[sytanek]

My Orange digi is doing awesome, orange cap looks fine, but I did have a problem with the first frags of brown digi i picked up.

 

[sytanek]

btw thats under T5's.

 

[sytanek]

With 2200 gph flow from seio's and 500 return flow on a 55.

 

[skinnyjoe1976]

BRANNON WHAT IS YOUR WATER CHEM AT? JUST WONDERING

 

[keinreis]

I keep alot of SPS's under t-5's and they color up real nice and groth is crazy, so the t-5's would not cause the problem IMO.

 

[sytanek]

I think the more important issue here is water chemistry more so than a lighting issue.

 

[skinnyjoe1976]

I AGREE ABOUT THE LIGHTING BUT IT DOES NOT HELP THE MATTER IF THE WATER IS OFF ALSO. JUST LIKE WORKING ON A CAR AND IF SOMETHING IS WRONG WITH THE AREA YOU ARE LOOKING AT AND YOU NOTICE SOMETHING MIGHT NOT BE RIGHT WHY NOT TRY TO ADDRESS THE ISSUE ALSO?

 

[jay24k]

I only run about 7000 gph in my 180 so your flow is definetly enough. IME, that low of an alk is probably the issue. I would raise it up with some baking soda over the next 3 days to at least 8 dkh. I have issues here and there with my alk dropping to 6.5 dkh without any issues but as soon as it drops below that, I can see a difference within pieces.

Higher phosphates might not necessarily cause bleaching but do contribute to browning. Either you have a large shift in parameters or it is due to your low alk.

IME, fix your current issues. It's like wondering why your engine stopped running a year ago. Now you are trying to fix it but don't want to add gas.

 

[plyle02]

I would work on the water chem as stated above. IME, the addition of an auto top off system, and kalk dripped helps me to maintain consistent levels in my tank, with very few swings. The flow is absolutely important, when you think you have too much, add more. I completely agree with the statement made about the lighting. I use t5's with great success. Make sure you use RO/DI on TDS at zero. The phosphate reactor is great, and do work, but use 1/3 of suggested media, and run carbon. Every time I add a new batch, my corals do stress a bit for a couple of days. I am not a SPS pro, but the more I progress in the hobby, the more I realize the importance of trying to test with all params perfectly in check. IMO, this is a must for SPS corals.... Good luck Ryan.....

 

[jay24k]

I don't think it is lighting unless it is defective. But really the only way to tell is to fix what you know is wrong and then see if that works. Gotta be patient though.

 

[sytanek]

I would be more concerned with flow and water params than anything.