SPS skin issues

Fireworm

New member
I have a birdsnest in my tank, and the skin on the coral looks like it has a second degree burn. You can see the skin swell up off of the skeleton. Any thoughts why? I cant get a pic with my camera
 
Forgot to add the rest..... oops

I have a 28g JBJ with stock light - 105w quad CF
I use RC salt...... 4 - 5 gallon change every week
As far as a dose schedule.... 1 drop of brightwell Lugols everyday
5 drops of MB7 every day
3 drops of brightwell Amino acids every week

I had this problem in my old 57g gallon as well, but it was only my digis that I had a problem with. I just eventually gave up on the digi and pitched them. This is a good sized birds nest and don't want it to go bad

My levels all check out fine, with the exception of my mag, since I can't test for it.

I wondered about if it is to close to the light? My quad light is on for 8.5 hrs a day. I run 2 power brite strips of LED actinics for supplement light. I never turn off the moon lights.

My flow is the 2 stock pumps and a MP10 that runs on reef crest and the night mode.

The part of the birds nest that is getting less light seems to be fine, just the closer to the light branches.
 
They were fine last week when I did the change. I have not checked yet this week but I will in a minute. But I don't dose in the tank, I mix my salt up and add what I need to to my change water. When I change the water, I siphon from the tank one week and the filter the next. I always add my water back into the filter section.
 
I might consider stopping the Iodine doseing. you don't need it in that size tank unless its packed full of soft corals. Iodide's nessecity is in regards to corals ability to attach skin to its skeleton. The corellation between this and your problem is suspect. Also Iodine is extremely toxic at as low as .2 above the recomended high.
 
I might consider stopping the Iodine doseing. you don't need it in that size tank unless its packed full of soft corals. Iodide's nessecity is in regards to corals ability to attach skin to its skeleton. The corellation between this and your problem is suspect. Also Iodine is extremely toxic at as low as .2 above the recomended high.

Intresting... I will stop today and see how that goes.... I do have a lot of zoo frags, 2 leathers, 2 gargonians, several rics, 1 blasto frag and 1 blast colony (baseball size), 2 clams, and some frogspawn that is starting to look not so good for some reason as well.
 
How long do you think it will take to notice a difference with out the iodine? I don't have anymore change water made up as of today, but I can start mixing some if I need to more than a 5 gallon change to help out.
 
I just checked my DKH and it was 12.... so that should be ok

Some would say 12 is a little high I personally don't think that it is. As far as time goes, If its an od of something, change as much water as you can SAFELY with out shocking the system and hope for the best. If its an OD you likely hav'nt seen the worst of it yet.
 
Interesting... I read your thread, and I feel your pain... In my case I would have to say the iodine since I had the same problem in my last tank.

I did look at my hood after reading your thread and I did see that the condensation is causing a few of teh screws that hold my light cover to rust. I will try to change them or cover them with clear finger nail polish to stop this.
 
Yeah, In my case it was definately either iodine or potassium OD or the magnet / heavy metals or all three. Hope it helps, notice I stated that it was high light areas that were affected first. At this point the only thing I dose is Brightwell's Micro Bactor about 15ml every time I change my filter sock (every third day) and I couldn't be happier with growth and color.
 
Maybe you should do a couple of decent sized water changes to kind of push reset and then resume your doseing schedule but at a third of what you were doing b-4. see if that helps. The good thing I found about all this is it helped fine tune my system and elliminate problems and or potential failure points.
 
I started mixing my first 5g bucket of change water tonight. I will change it in a few hours and then again on Sunday or Monday
 
You really should get a Mag test kit and start dosing that as well. Its actually just as important as Ca and Alk because it helps keeps them in balance. That is unless you use a salt with a higher Mag content and do water changes quite often.
 
It seems he has has his corals close to the light. and he runs Reefbrite led strips which are probably the most powerfull led setups available right now.
 
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