sps tank with ca and kalk reactor

Kalk is very effective at raising ph (as well as calc and alk) in systems where the ph is lowered by the co2 from a ca reactor- so that's one benefit- if required..
Kalk will also bind po4 and make it precipitate, removing it from the water column, but where it goes and what happens to it, long term, seems to be a bit of a question mark..
 
Been using both for years. Seems to work well for me.

You can run your CA RX at a lower bubble rate, therefor not running your PH lower. Especially if your CA RX is undersized for your system demand. Your kalk will pick up the slack.

Adding your Kalk at night can be used to keep your PH higher when your lights are off. Therefor your PH stays more consistant day and night.

Kalk is cheap. It can add a ton of CA and Alk to your system depending on your evaporation rate. The key is to keep your kalk addition rate pretty much the same daily, no matter your evap rate.

It is one more gadget to keep track of though.
 
Reefsmac, do you need to use any other forms of po4 removal? I'm wondering how effective kalk actually is at lowering po4..
 
Randy Holmes Farley has an article on po4 and a big part of the article discusses po4 removal. He does state that higher ph levels will cause some ca precipitation which then causes the po4 to bind to the precipitate and then finally skimmed out when it passes thru the skimmer. His article indicates that the ph level where this potentially happens is around 8.4. It doesnt sound like this theory has been widely tested and proven but it sounds like it could.
 
Thanks, spotter.
I'm wondering where the po4 goes, good to know that some is exported via skimming.
I seem to recall a lot of clumping of gravel when using kalk, which I assume was calcium phosphate or some such nasty thing accumulating in the sand bed...
If I knew that po4 was removed from the system and didn't end up bound in the system somewhere, I'd be much more inclined to use it.
 
I've been struggling with high po4 levels and one of my causes was my sand bed. I had a 2" sand bed and it became a trap for detritus. I have reduced the sand bed down to basically just enough to cover the glass in the most areas with a few deeper spots for my wrasses. I too had a decent amount of clumping but that can be solved by vacuuming the the surface of the sand bed during water changes and giving a gentle stir from time to time. I am going to be adding kalk to my system once I get everything I need and see if a higher ph level has any impact on the po4 level in my tank.
 
I have been considering adding a Kalk reactor and run the auto top off through it.

My CaRx works great, but I am running it hard enough that my ph almost never rises above 8.0 unless I open the windows all day. I also am currently having a hair algae problem. So the kalk reactor may just be the ticket for my scenario.

My only concern is keeping how much, if any, fluctuation in Alk am I going to see from different evaporation rates on a 220g system?
 
Been using both for years. Seems to work well for me.

You can run your CA RX at a lower bubble rate, therefor not running your PH lower. Especially if your CA RX is undersized for your system demand. Your kalk will pick up the slack.

Adding your Kalk at night can be used to keep your PH higher when your lights are off. Therefor your PH stays more consistant day and night.

Kalk is cheap. It can add a ton of CA and Alk to your system depending on your evaporation rate. The key is to keep your kalk addition rate pretty much the same daily, no matter your evap rate.

It is one more gadget to keep track of though.


yes, agreed:) also love running both
 
I have been considering adding a Kalk reactor and run the auto top off through it.

My CaRx works great, but I am running it hard enough that my ph almost never rises above 8.0 unless I open the windows all day. I also am currently having a hair algae problem. So the kalk reactor may just be the ticket for my scenario.

My only concern is keeping how much, if any, fluctuation in Alk am I going to see from different evaporation rates on a 220g system?

well i run a timed stur on my reactor. so i do 4 one min stur a day in the summer when evaporation is high, and 6 or 7 in the winter. hooked up to a gravity top off. its been working well for me for a year now:) whatever you chose for a means of adding kalk, your corals will be happy with it hooked up properly for your system. good luck:)
 
with the timed stirs, are you trying to achieve a stronger solution of kalk?

If you have settled kalk in the bottom of the container, or maybe even just 1 stir a day, the kalk water is always going to be 100% saturated isnt it?
 
Reefsmac, do you need to use any other forms of po4 removal? I'm wondering how effective kalk actually is at lowering po4..

I use GFO to keep my P04 in check. I use the kalk mainly as a source of CA and ALK. If it's taking away some P04 as a side benefit, even better. As much as I wish it was, I can't say it's taking care of all my P04 though.
 
My CaRx works great, but I am running it hard enough that my ph almost never rises above 8.0 unless I open the windows all day.

Mine never falls below 8.0 even at night and goes up to 8.5 - 8.6 during the day using kalk with my CA RX.
 
reefsmac...

would i be able to turn up my ph in my ca rx if i run a kalk reactor off an ato? i dont really touch my bubble count
 
pimp, yes. You could increase the ph level in the reactor to weaken the effluent a little bit.

fwiw, I always balance my bubble count against the effluent rate and ph in the reactor. I try to set it so the solenoid almost never has to turn off. that way if/when the solenoid fails, it doesnt dump too much co2 into the system. ( I did have one fail after about 6yrs of use)
 
reefsmac...

would i be able to turn up my ph in my ca rx if i run a kalk reactor off an ato? i dont really touch my bubble count

To "turn up" the PH in your CA RX would take slowing down your bubble count (less CO2) if your flow rate through it does not change. This will also lower the amount of CA and Alk it is producing. This is what you want because the kalk in your ATO will make up for it.

Less CO2, your tank PH goes up. More Kalk, your tank PH goes up even more.

You just need to be careful getting it all set up at first. Don't OD on your Alk by adding too much from both sources.

It is almost like you want to find out how much CA and Alk your ATO is going to add based on your evaporation rate and then set the bubble rate in your CA RX to make up the difference.

FWIW I use my bubble count to adjust my CA RX the most. I really don't touch my flow rate through it. I always keep my flow rate pretty slow.

Hope this helps.
 
To "turn up" the PH in your CA RX would take slowing down your bubble count (less CO2) if your flow rate through it does not change. This will also lower the amount of CA and Alk it is producing. This is what you want because the kalk in your ATO will make up for it.

Less CO2, your tank PH goes up. More Kalk, your tank PH goes up even more.

You just need to be careful getting it all set up at first. Don't OD on your Alk by adding too much from both sources.

It is almost like you want to find out how much CA and Alk your ATO is going to add based on your evaporation rate and then set the bubble rate in your CA RX to make up the difference.

FWIW I use my bubble count to adjust my CA RX the most. I really don't touch my flow rate through it. I always keep my flow rate pretty slow.

Hope this helps.

i was changing my bubble count but it was a pain for me so i tryed just playing with the ph of the reactor and that worked way better for me
 
I have been considering adding a Kalk reactor and run the auto top off through it.

My CaRx works great, but I am running it hard enough that my ph almost never rises above 8.0 unless I open the windows all day. I also am currently having a hair algae problem. So the kalk reactor may just be the ticket for my scenario.

My only concern is keeping how much, if any, fluctuation in Alk am I going to see from different evaporation rates on a 220g system?

Instead of opening your windows or running a Kalk reactor, run a line from the window to the air intake of your skimmer. The Skimmer will suck in the Oxygen and put it directly in the water. This raised my pH .4.
 
Instead of opening your windows or running a Kalk reactor, run a line from the window to the air intake of your skimmer. The Skimmer will suck in the Oxygen and put it directly in the water. This raised my pH .4.

So you're saying that by using outside air you will go from an 8.0 to 8.4?
How do you run a line through the window without cracking it open? Its like 20 degrees here, don't want none of that in the house.
 
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