squamosa vs derasa
- Thread starter drdrew
- Start date
Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
Either of those Tridacna should do well for you. :thumbsup:
Some quotes from Daniel Knop's book Giant Clams (P131)....
As a "minimal light source" for an aquarium populated with invertebrates, fluorescent tubes of different colour types may suffice....However, for the well-being of clams of the genus Tridacnidae such a light source may not provide the necessary light intensity.
He goes on to say...
I recommend metal halide "TS" lamps of 250 Watt (Osram TS 250W/D) and tube shaped lamps with the socket E27 or E40 (Osram T 250W/D). I also used halide lamps with 400, 1000, and 2000 Watt with no apparent negative effect on clams, traced back to the light source....250 Watt are used for tanks 60 cm high, 400 Watt with tanks of 80, and 1000 Watt with tanks of 100 cm water column. Lamps of 2000 Watt should only be used on tanks more than one meter high with a safety distance of at least 70 cm.
As a "minimal light source" for an aquarium populated with invertebrates, fluorescent tubes of different colour types may suffice....However, for the well-being of clams of the genus Tridacnidae such a light source may not provide the necessary light intensity.
He goes on to say...
I recommend metal halide "TS" lamps of 250 Watt (Osram TS 250W/D) and tube shaped lamps with the socket E27 or E40 (Osram T 250W/D). I also used halide lamps with 400, 1000, and 2000 Watt with no apparent negative effect on clams, traced back to the light source....250 Watt are used for tanks 60 cm high, 400 Watt with tanks of 80, and 1000 Watt with tanks of 100 cm water column. Lamps of 2000 Watt should only be used on tanks more than one meter high with a safety distance of at least 70 cm.
Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
Well drdrew,I guess the conflicting opinions continue for you. 
Not really, though.I do agree with Knop's recommendations.However, these are generalized for the Tridacna as a whole.
I've found that T. derasa and T. squamosa require less lighting than other Tridacna species to survive.Note I said survive.Ideally,you want clams to thrive.Employing the use of phytoplankton will definitely help a clam thrive in that lighting of yours.
I personally know of T. derasa clams in systems with lighting intensities similar to yours.
One specimen is seven years old and has grown incredibly large!
I always recommend adding a predator fish of 'rice snails'{Pyramidellidae and Pyrgiscus} before introducing a clam into an aquarium.
Not really, though.I do agree with Knop's recommendations.However, these are generalized for the Tridacna as a whole.
I've found that T. derasa and T. squamosa require less lighting than other Tridacna species to survive.Note I said survive.Ideally,you want clams to thrive.Employing the use of phytoplankton will definitely help a clam thrive in that lighting of yours.
I personally know of T. derasa clams in systems with lighting intensities similar to yours.
One specimen is seven years old and has grown incredibly large!
I always recommend adding a predator fish of 'rice snails'{Pyramidellidae and Pyrgiscus} before introducing a clam into an aquarium.
drdrew
New member
well... i do feed live phytiplankton daily to my tank...so that should help. but now i think i may have larger concerns. the tank has a large coral banded shrimp, 15 scarlett hermits, 1 emerald mythrax.....thoughts there?
and still no clear answer to derasa vs squamosa in overall hardiness?
and still no clear answer to derasa vs squamosa in overall hardiness?
Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
I believe both T squamosa and T. derasa are equally hardy.They have been known to inter-breed.
I usually recommend T. derasa as a first time clam,as they are hardy, aquacultured and readily available.
I would not consider any of the crabs or shrimp you mentioned a threat.
Are your fish 'clam-safe'?
I usually recommend T. derasa as a first time clam,as they are hardy, aquacultured and readily available.
I would not consider any of the crabs or shrimp you mentioned a threat.
Are your fish 'clam-safe'?
drdrew
New member
are the squamosa wild caught?
i would definitey go derasa first if that's the case...
my fish are...1 banggai cardinal, 2 oscellaris clowns, 1 scott's fairy wrasse, and 1 lawnmower blenny.
oh, and i forgot to mention a cleaner shrimp too.
50 nassarius snails, 10-15 other turbo and or trochus snails...
i would definitey go derasa first if that's the case...
my fish are...1 banggai cardinal, 2 oscellaris clowns, 1 scott's fairy wrasse, and 1 lawnmower blenny.
oh, and i forgot to mention a cleaner shrimp too.
50 nassarius snails, 10-15 other turbo and or trochus snails...
holeinone1972
Team RC Member
Both Squamosa, and Derasa can be farm raised. You will have to rely on the person you buy from, to see if wild caught, or farm raised. (Wild caught seems to be funny, when talking about clams, as they don't really run very fast) Wild taken maybe more appropriate.
Lastly I do not believe that your Emerald crab or Cleaner shrimp pose any threat, I do not approve of the others. They can co-exist peacefully, I just do not chance it. Best of luck, Rob
Lastly I do not believe that your Emerald crab or Cleaner shrimp pose any threat, I do not approve of the others. They can co-exist peacefully, I just do not chance it. Best of luck, Rob
piercho
New member
Jim, when i read the lighting passage in Knop's book, I took him to be refering to NO bulbs in Europe, only, not to VHO or PC. Doesn't he state that VHO is not available in Europe? Anyway, I've seen one derasa grown out to adult size under VHO, but the clam's colors were very muted.
Robert Hoeck
Member
Hi drdrew, From my experience with a deresa under a 2-96watt system on a 30gallon I'd say either would be fine. Mine maintained good color and growth for about 18 months. When I added a maxima and crocea they both declined after about 3 months, but the deresa seems to be very hardy. I'd agree that the halide is a better light source and would be my first choice. It gives more versatility to add colorful clams down the road. Good luck,Rob.
Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
Personally, I've never had a problem keeping coral-banded shrimp {Stenopus sp.} or scarlet hermit crabs with Tridacna.
theitalianczech
New member
Robert Hoeck:
where do you have the clam positioned in your 30.......i have a 30 w/ 2x96 watt PC and am thinking of adding a clam down the line.....
where do you have the clam positioned in your 30.......i have a 30 w/ 2x96 watt PC and am thinking of adding a clam down the line.....
Robert Hoeck
Member
The deresa was attached to a flat rock about 1/3 from the bottom. The maxima was up towards surface to get the most light possible. The max was put into my 58 with halide and both started getting DT's a few months ago. If you can, get a 40 breeder instead of the 30g. The extra width will give you room to add more light later.
Robert Hoeck
Member
FWIW the tank had the deresa for about 11/2years before I started adding the DT's and clam was growing well. This tank had a marginal skimmer and 2-clowns,6 line wrasse,juv.hippo tang and they were fed twice daily. Let me know if you find anyone selling some colored deresa's as I think they're quite hardy although I'm sure they'll outgrow our tanks eventually. Good luck, Rob.
