Stand Advice

Well I have started again. Had 4 tanks, had to tear them all down to move to Guam. Swore I would not start a tank again. Started Snorkeling and diving........Started a tank again. Just a small one at least. Its a 45 gal tank and currently sits on a stand that doesn't really do what I need it to. The light I have on there now is from one of my old tanks and I would really like to re-use instead of re-buy. During the move, one of my wife's bookshelves broke. I figured why not kill 2 birds with one stone and build a bookshelf/new stand. The whole design is using 3/4 in hardwood (basically the only size you can find on island without special ordering) I feel should be more than enough to hold the weight but I have been wrong before. Just looking for some advice on design and structure. Let me know what you all think.
 

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Cool, unusual tank. Is your building material solid wood or plywood? Either will work but there are construction considerations with solid wood.

The stand you drew has no support directly under the tank. That worries me. You could move the tank all the way to one side or divide the lower into three sections so there will be vertical supports directly under the corners of the tank.

I'm not sure how you are going to use that light. Would it be really weird to light from the side? :)
 
Cool, unusual tank. Is your building material solid wood or plywood? Either will work but there are construction considerations with solid wood.

The stand you drew has no support directly under the tank. That worries me. You could move the tank all the way to one side or divide the lower into three sections so there will be vertical supports directly under the corners of the tank.

I'm not sure how you are going to use that light. Would it be really weird to light from the side? :)

if he divides it into 3 sections he may not have room for a sump if he's going that route? I have a 46 bow with this stand I made. It actually has no bracing in the middle. however the top and bottom both have two 3/4 inch mdf and 1 3/4 pine on top. The first piece of mdf is glued and screwed into the pine 1x4 across the bow. and the back a solid piece of mdf along the back. then the remaining mdf and pine sit on top of that. The stand is extremely sturdy, more than effect for a 46 gallon tank.
CAM00075.jpg
 
So if I where op, I would double up the piece that the tank sits on. (2 pieces of 3/4) then I would also double up the sides and the middle, along some type of support in the back.

If you look at aqueons version of the stand. they have no support in the middle and the bottom is hollow. yours will be plenty stronger than this,
 
Cool, unusual tank. Is your building material solid wood or plywood? Either will work but there are construction considerations with solid wood.

The stand you drew has no support directly under the tank. That worries me. You could move the tank all the way to one side or divide the lower into three sections so there will be vertical supports directly under the corners of the tank.

I'm not sure how you are going to use that light. Would it be really weird to light from the side? :)

Thanks! I will probably use plywood. I think, like suggestions above, I can double up the top layer. The middle divider I would think would be plenty to hold the weight of the middle but I guess that's why I am asking everyone :). Worst case I could frame out the bottom of the stand with 2x4s and "wrap" it in the plywood just to be sure.

As for the light...there will still be some of the light wasted in the top of the stand but it will be hidden from view and suspended. I should have shown the top open just to give the idea. The front will swing open and up from top mounted hinges.

I would just sell the light and buy a new one but not many people have salt water tanks here (mostly freshwater).
 
if he divides it into 3 sections he may not have room for a sump if he's going that route? I have a 46 bow with this stand I made. It actually has no bracing in the middle. however the top and bottom both have two 3/4 inch mdf and 1 3/4 pine on top. The first piece of mdf is glued and screwed into the pine 1x4 across the bow. and the back a solid piece of mdf along the back. then the remaining mdf and pine sit on top of that. The stand is extremely sturdy, more than effect for a 46 gallon tank.
CAM00075.jpg

So if I where op, I would double up the piece that the tank sits on. (2 pieces of 3/4) then I would also double up the sides and the middle, along some type of support in the back.

If you look at aqueons version of the stand. they have no support in the middle and the bottom is hollow. yours will be plenty stronger than this,

Excellent suggestions. I think doubling up will help ensure I have no issues and can still leave room for a possible sump/ref on the underside.
 
I would 2nd John's concern about the support. In your original design, you essentially have the tank perched over a single vertical support in the middle. The plywood sheet will bow with with the weight of the tank and may not support the tank edges adequately.

Generally you want vertical members directly under the edges of the tank. The problem with your tank is that it has a fairly small footprint that will limit the space underneath if you do this, but that's difficult to get away from.

Someone above mentioned combining MDF with plywood. MDF in general is not a great choice for tank stands (or any structural support) as it will bow/warp very easily and doesn't hold up to water well. I have a sheet of ½" MDF that bowed in the 4 days it was leaning almost vertically against a wall. Combining two sheets of plywood would be significantly better if you are looking for strength.
 
I would 2nd John's concern about the support. In your original design, you essentially have the tank perched over a single vertical support in the middle. The plywood sheet will bow with with the weight of the tank and may not support the tank edges adequately.

Generally you want vertical members directly under the edges of the tank. The problem with your tank is that it has a fairly small footprint that will limit the space underneath if you do this, but that's difficult to get away from.

Someone above mentioned combining MDF with plywood. MDF in general is not a great choice for tank stands (or any structural support) as it will bow/warp very easily and doesn't hold up to water well. I have a sheet of ½" MDF that bowed in the 4 days it was leaning almost vertically against a wall. Combining two sheets of plywood would be significantly better if you are looking for strength.

Plywood bows, comes off the shelve bowed, mdf comes off the shelves straight. I have never seen a piece of mdf bow from just sitting on the wall. did you get it wet? but even when wet, it will warp.

For the record, I never suggested mdf or mdf with pine, I was merily explaining what I did and I never said I used plywood. The mdf is only a support under the pine undertop and bottom and has never bowed in the 3 plus years I've ran the tank. a factory stand this size doesn't even have bracing in the middle., let alone 2 pieces. If Op uses a strong wood such as pine for the bottom in 3/4 and doubles it or even uses a 1 inch piece. Than stand will be more than enough to hold a 45 gallon tank. putting 2 braces in the middle is taking up unnecessary room and is overkill. he can add support around the sides and top and piece in the middle he has.
 
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MDF is great for some things. It is generally flat and very dimensionally stable, but it will not support weight without bowing and has a very low tolerance for moisture. The sheet I'm referring to was new, flat and in a garage in MN in February - any moisture around is in the form of ice crystals! It was leaning at about a 25º*angle for about 5 days and had a slight bow after that.

I'm using the MDF to make a top for my stand, but it will be protected form the water by formica laminate and supported underneath by the stand, so it won't need to hold anything up.

I couldn't tell from your description exactly how your stand is assembled. If it hasn't warped or bowed, then you have it well supported; the other wood you used is doing the work, not the MDF.

A 40 gallon tank with rock and sand will be approaching 500 pounds. There are ways of properly supporting a tank without direct vertical supports underneath, but the stand must be designed properly. Using an MDF panel as horizontal support for 500 pounds is foolish, IMO.
 
Ok so here is the start to the redesign(all wood shown would be a 3/4 oak plywood...comments/suggestions?
 

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I would go a slightly different route. I would make a box with the plywood on edge under the tank and a top. In the front panel I would cut two openings leaving about 4" on the outer edges and 5" in the center. That way I can have two doors that overlap the edges of the opening by 1" all around and leave plenty of support for the tank itself. Another option is three front openings and an opening in the ends to allow the sump to go in one end or the other.
 
I like the design in the second picture in your first post. I think one centered piece of 3/4 just like you show is fine. That being said, good joinery is key.
Your updated design looks sure to bow a good amount and possibly stress the tank to the point of breaking or leaking seams.
 
Using an MDF panel as horizontal support for 500 pounds is foolish, IMO.

Only reason I used MDF is because I wanted something straight so I could form the shape of my bow of my template. Only place on my stand that has MDF is where I formed the crown of my bow on top and bottom. u can only see the mdf from inside the stand. The rest of the stand is made of 3/4" pine. my emphasis was on the 3/4" wood. I shouldn't even have mentioned the MDF. I was not suggesting op to use this material but 2 use atleast 2 layers of atleast 3/4" material.

Ok so here is the start to the redesign(all wood shown would be a 3/4 oak plywood...comments/suggestions?

I'm not sure you'll be able to get away with this without center support. If the stand was shorter like mine you could get away with it but with that length, I would go with your original center support you had in your first draft. but everything else looks good, IMO

400+ lbs on that? No center support? I would think it would bow and eventually collapse.
Agreed
 
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I would go a slightly different route. I would make a box with the plywood on edge under the tank and a top. In the front panel I would cut two openings leaving about 4" on the outer edges and 5" in the center. That way I can have two doors that overlap the edges of the opening by 1" all around and leave plenty of support for the tank itself. Another option is three front openings and an opening in the ends to allow the sump to go in one end or the other.

This is also a good idea, as far as the openings. Mine is the same way, except the support and cut out is in the back verses the front.
 
Only reason I used MDF is because I wanted something straight so I could form the shape of my bow of my template. Only place on my stand that has MDF is where I formed the crown of my bow on top and bottom. u can only see the mdf from inside the stand. The rest of the stand is made of 3/4" pine. my emphasis was on the 3/4" wood. I shouldn't even have mentioned the MDF. I was not suggesting op to use this material but 2 use atleast 2 layers of atleast 3/4" material.

that makes more sense - it sounded like you were using/advocating using the MDF as a structural component. As a flat surface over sturdy support it's fine. You just can't expect the MDF itself to provide any of the support. Since it tends to swell and get mushy with water, it's generally a good idea to protect it well.

Not sure that the OP may not have access to MDF, so all this may be moot anyway.

Add my voice to those suggesting better support under the tank than provided in the most recent rendering.
 
Third time a charm????

I hope so because this is getting to the point that it would be cheaper for me to just buy a new light for the tank and a book case for the wife :lol:
 

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Much improved. Just has one issue which should be easy to fix. If I were to push sideways on that, the three vertical pieces at the bottom would all bend over sideways and the whole thing would parallelogram onto the floor. The easy solution would be to have a solid sheet of plywood running across the entire back of the stand to provide the lateral support. It can have holes in it, just needs to connect the sides to each other so they can't rotate at the corners.
 
Third time a charm????

I hope so because this is getting to the point that it would be cheaper for me to just buy a new light for the tank and a book case for the wife :lol:

well you only have to use the thick stuff for tank support. you could make the rest out of 1/4" even the back wall you could do out of 1/8 plywood or some of the stuff that is rolled but stain able. save yourself some money on the non supportive parts.

but Rocket is 100% right about that support.

your drawing on the right is perfect example. how you have the face. but you need that on the bottom too. cut your doors in like this.
Frag-Tank-Stand-4.jpg
but with a thicker sheet than the picture. that would give you the support left to right as well as your doors. or the way rocket suggested. but I think this will be a awesome looking stand/case when ur done.
 
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