Stand Alone Float Switch or Breakout Box

[JWGarber]

I am looking for input and suggestions...

I want to hook my Mag12 return pump to a float switch in the DT. If for some reason water gets high the return pump will be shut down by the float switch.

Now the question is which scenario is the most fail proof and best to use.

A. Stand alone float switch plugged into 110V wall outlet. So when the float closes the current is cut off to the return pump.

B. Stand alone float switch plugged into an Apex EB8. When the outlet is on the return pump is on. If the float closes the stand alone will kill the return pump.
This lets me control the return pump with the Apex and still shuts off if the float is closed.

C. Return pump plugged into EB8, Standard float switch plugged to the Apex Breakout Box. So if the float is closed the breakout box detects it and shuts off the return pump.


A: is pretty safe but offers no sort of Apex controls or alerts.

B and C rely on the Apex and EB8 for main power. If the EB8 or Apex unit start fritzing out it could cause problems.


Ideally I would use Scenario B -- BUT I would have to splice the float switch into the break out box as well so it would trigger both the stand alone and the apex.

So Apex controls simple on/off of the stand alone float switch and return pump. So if the float closes the stand alone cuts off the pump AND the Apex is alerted. So the apex can send out an e-mail and alarms etc.


The stand alone unit I refer to is this
http://autotopoff.com/products/ST1/


Any ideas or input?

 

[JWGarber]

I think I have it figured out...

Use (2) Float Switches.

(Primary Float Switch) This is just the switch and not the full stand alone unit. It is hooked to the breakout box on the Apex.

(Redundant Float Switch) Stand alone switch plugged into the EB8 outlet powering the return pump.

Primary Float Switch: This float switch is mounted at the water line. When the water line raises it trips the Apex. Apex shuts off the return pump, sounds an alarm and e-mails me.

Redundant Float Switch
This float switch is mounted slightly higher than the first float switch.
If the Apex/EB8 Fails. The Apex/EB8 will most likely fail in an "OFF" State in which case the redundant switch meets definition. If the Apex/EB8 fail "ON" the redundant switch should cut power physically via the relay.

I hope both switches would never fail.

I will run a water sensor strip around the outside top rim of the tank hooked to the Apex breakout box. If both floats fail and the tank overflows this strip is the last resort and should hopefully trip and shut off the return pump, send email and sound alarms.

 

[Pife]

I would do c

 

[JWGarber]

Problem with "C" is I have seen an Apex unit fail in the "ON" Condition.
Meaning that even if the float tripped the return pump would still be running and still possibly overflow the tank.

I posted the solution I came up with yesterday and it seems pretty good to me.

 

[jduck]

Issue you may run into. If you turn off your main pump for feeding/maintenance. water rises up high enough to trip switch and won't allow rtn outlet to turn back on.

 

[JWGarber]

Issue you may run into. If you turn off your main pump for feeding/maintenance. water rises up high enough to trip switch and won't allow rtn outlet to turn back on.

I am not sure I follow you here....

If my return pump is off for feeding/maintenance then the water in the tank will drain until its below the skimmer box.

The sump will be full but the level in the DT won't rise because the pump is off.

So I am not sure how you get the water will rise...

 

[SoFloReefer]

Your sump level rises. Why would you put the ATO in your display?

 

[tkeracer619]

Stand alone switch. Use Autotopoff.com and wire the opposite pole on the relay to trip your breakout and send an email.

I've been doing this for many years without issue.

 

[tkeracer619]

You put an ATO on the display and plug the return pump into it.

The float switch is above normal operating levels. If the drain clogs it will trip the switch and turn off the return pump. Water drains back down the returns, switch resets, pump cycles until the tank fills. It will do this over and over keeping circulation going without overflowing the tank.

I would never run a HOB overflow without this setup. Even if its a LifeReef.

 

[JWGarber]

Your sump level rises. Why would you put the ATO in your display?

Where in the world did you read that I am talking about an ATO?
Please read the OP again....

Stand alone switch. Use Autotopoff.com and wire the opposite pole on the relay to trip your breakout and send an email.

I've been doing this for many years without issue.

Yea I have the parts on order now.
I am using the setup I posted a few posts above with Primary and Redundant Switches.

 

[JWGarber]

You put an ATO on the display and plug the return pump into it.

The float switch is above normal operating levels. If the drain clogs it will trip the switch and turn off the return pump. Water drains back down the returns, switch resets, pump cycles until the tank fills. It will do this over and over keeping circulation going without overflowing the tank.

I would never run a HOB overflow without this setup. Even if its a LifeReef.

There is no ATO...
This entire post was about controlling a return pump using the best method possible.

Not an ATO pump.

 

[tkeracer619]

Awesome, it will give you some peace of mind. Yes I know but... you are using an ATO setup, just not as an ATO. It is the exact same thing

 

[SoFloReefer]

haha I see. Sorry.

 

[JWGarber]

Awesome, it will give you some peace of mind. Yes I know but... you are using an ATO setup, just not as an ATO. It is the exact same thing

I hear the parts from Autotopoff.com are extremely reliable. So I bought from them. However I don't think using a few of the same components that are used in an automatic top off system to control a return pump counts as the "Exact same thing" as an ATO nor does it count as using an "ATO setup"

These are just components. I can build quite a lot of things using parts from Autotopoff.com that don't provide the same function as an actual ATO

I think after testing everything I will probably be comfortable with the setup I am going with as being pretty fail safe.

 

[JWGarber]

You put an ATO on the display and plug the return pump into it.

The float switch is above normal operating levels. If the drain clogs it will trip the switch and turn off the return pump. Water drains back down the returns, switch resets, pump cycles until the tank fills. It will do this over and over keeping circulation going without overflowing the tank.

I would never run a HOB overflow without this setup. Even if its a LifeReef.

I might be confused here...

How do you attach an ATO to your return pump?
The return pump is in your sump and returns sump water to the DT.

My actual ATO setup doesn't use any pumps to move water from the ATO Reservoir to the sump. When I add fresh water from the ATO the sumps return pump will disperse the fresh water through the system.

Maybe we are calling things by two different names. I call a pump attached to the ATO an "ATO Pump" not a "Return Pump"
I call the sump return pump a "Return Pump"

The scenario you describe above is how I am setting it up using the parts I ordered from autotopoff.com

I am just using two switches because one is a redundant switch.