Stand Design - Suck at Carpentry, OK with sketchup

[Ruu]

So, I've never really made a stand before (and in all fairness I probably won't actually build this one, but I may well stand around looking over someone's shoulder making knowledgeable noises and occasionally using phrases like "biscuit joints" and "racking issues").

Since I've just recently moved though, it's time for a new build. And with a new build comes an opportunity to dust off Sketchup and really thrill friends and family with some exciting build planning. If you are on here reading this then you don't get to judge - you are probably just as bad as I am. Questions in red, if anyone feels like answering.

Anyway, decided to go with a stock reef ready 125 rather than go custom this time, then build a stand around that. I'm going with a 125 because it really is the largest tank I think I can handle right now (I've done much deeper and much taller tanks in the past (both 24" and 30" deep and 30" tall at various points), and much bigger tanks and I am comfortable with something longer and narrower this time around.

Does anyone know where I can find the *exact* dimensions of the Aqueon/Marineland reef ready tanks? In particular, I want to know *exactly* where the holes are drilled so that I can get it into sketchup properly to ensure that I don't run into any problems where my hands have to reach through a 2x8.
Any preferences as to which one? The aqeon has overflows on the back wall, and the marineland has them in the rear corners, but I'm not sure which I would prefer. Probably leaning towards the marineland to preserve the limited depth in the middle of the tank

Somethings I care about:

• I want the stand larger than the tank. This is both so that I can fit my existing (pretty large) sump into the stand, and so that I can put a granite shelf around the edge
• I want to keep the front as open as humanly possible. I've had access problems into a stand before, and I don't want to repeat the mistake
• I want it to not collapse, and ideally I want the core frame of the stand to be sufficient, since I don't think I can count on the "extension" around the edges to be truly structural, even if it is skinned with plywood
• I want it to look pretty, such that my wife will give me the "you hero" eyes for bringing beauty unto our new domain, and not the "I'm only staying for the sake of the children" eyes. I get those every time she walks past the room with the four horse-troughs of the apocalypse that is temporarily housing all my livestock.

I will post each "phase" of the stand build to a new post so that people can criticize individual bits.

Dave

 

[Ruu]

Phase 1 - Ripping off the Intenet

Phase 1 - Ripping off the Intenet

So - I start out with RocketEngineer's basic DIY stand using 2x4's for most things, and 2x8's for the top frame. To me it seems like it could use some support in the middle, but I would really like to keep that front open if at all possible.

Should I be adding anything additional to prevent racking?
Would 3/4" plywood across the back be sufficient additional structure?
What is racking anyway?
Where do you find green 2x4's?

 

[Ruu]

Additional phases are forthcoming, but apparently I have to go and do something more productive with myself on my day off than post pictures on the interwebs.

 

[teddyzaper]

The best way to get the tanks dimensions is to have it in front of you. I received my 55gallon and it was about 1/4inch off from manufacturer specs. I'd put another vertical piece in the back center, but you may not need it. I just don't like that word.... May... Your house may not be flooded. Haha, anyways it's really not in the way if you add it.

You'll want the tank to be directly above the frame. To make the stand bigger than the tank, just make it the normal size then skin it to be larger. If you aren't going to make it yourself I'd recommend talking to a professional about how to make it look good.

Green 2x4s only come from very specific trees that only grow during odd numbered decades. Next available harvest will be 2030. sadly you'll have to settle for plain old brown this decade.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

[Ruu]

You'll want the tank to be directly above the frame. To make the stand bigger than the tank, just make it the normal size then skin it to be larger. If you aren't going to make it yourself I'd recommend talking to a professional about how to make it look good.

Oh - there are many more pictures coming, trust me. As for the build it's sort of "friends helping friends" more than "I have a professional on standby". Hell - I wish I could find someone who made stands around here - the last time I asked I was greeted with deafening silence.

Dave

 

[teddyzaper]

Oh - there are many more pictures coming, trust me. As for the build it's sort of "friends helping friends" more than "I have a professional on standby". Hell - I wish I could find someone who made stands around here - the last time I asked I was greeted with deafening silence.

Dave

Ah ok, well in that case I'd just build it overkill. The dinky little 125g stands that they sell at Petco are just plywood and they hold a tank so I imagine using any amount of real lumber would hold.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

[Ruu]

So, having no idea how to actually do this properly, I just kinda nailed some 2x4's onto the outside to provide a little extra front to back stand depth and add some structure where the granite shelf will go.

Is there a better/proper way of extending out the stand?

Dave

 

[Ruu]

Next I slapped on some plywood to sit the sump, tank and granite shelf on.

And this is with the top plywood translucent so you can see the positioning...

Dave

 

[teddyzaper]

So, having no idea how to actually do this properly, I just kinda nailed some 2x4's onto the outside to provide a little extra front to back stand depth and add some structure where the granite shelf will go.

Is there a better/proper way of extending out the stand?

Dave

I would just make a plywood box the size you want the stand to be, then make the structural stand sit inside that. If you don't like that, you can make the structural stand the size you want the stand to be then just brace the area that the tank will sit on

edit: just saw your latest post, i'd just use the original stand you have designed (red/green) and add the plywood on that.

 

[Ruu]

edit: just saw your latest post, i'd just use the original stand you have designed (red/green) and add the plywood on that.

It isn't deep enough for the sump - I need at least another 6 inches on top of the 18 inches of the tank depth to fit it in. The above images *are* the original model, I just added the yellow 2x4 frame to the outside. Since the sump sits on both I didn't really see much merit in letting the outer box float free.

Dave

 

[Ruu]

Next comes the graniting, and I skinned the outer frame in red oak plywood.

And this is with another granite option. The local granite place had some really cool leftovers that I can get for a song - not sure they are fully coming out in these textures but you sort of get the idea...

Dave

 

[Ruu]

And this is the "finished" stand. I have no idea what to do with the front face though (since I want to keep it as open as possible).

I'm sort of having crazy thoughts about using magnets to make a completely removable front panel, and then having two sliding doors within that - that way I could completely remove it if necessary, but use the sliding doors for everyday access.

Dave

 

[teddyzaper]

Thats my plan, either magnetic front or some other way to hold the panel, although i don't think i'll be doing doors in them. Should be pretty easy. Have you thought about buying custom panels from a cabinet store? relatively cheap and already finished.

 

[fishgate]

I suggest you don't get the megaflows or the corner flows and instead save your money and get a non reef-ready tank. I have this exact tank with Megaflows and I wish I had gotten the non reef-ready and drilled for a coast to coast. The weirs are very large and not designed for modern plumbing (bean animal). They are designed for Durso plumbing which no one would use if given the choice.

This is a great size tank (or the 180 that is roughly the same but deeper).

See my mega-flow to herbie conversion video for more information.

 

[Zalick]

Its hard to tell from your final diagram but you want to make sure the edges of the tank match up with the vertical supports of the stand. All the forces should be going down through those supports.

From your modified pictures I can tell you the stand is overbuilt (not a negative) and could hold a lot of weight. The original rocket engineer model is what I have for my 300g with the addition of a 3/4" piece of plywood on edge for the back support and two 1x4 verticals evenly spaced in the front middle. A single piece of plywood on edge can hold an enormous amount of weight.

The first stand you posted will hold that tank without problem and then a small car on top. (kidding)

If you want to really calculate things, check out the span tables for the 2x8 supports.

 

[Ruu]

Its hard to tell from your final diagram but you want to make sure the edges of the tank match up with the vertical supports of the stand. All the forces should be going down through those supports.

That's the idea. Curious exactly how much extra space I am supposed to be leaving around the edges of the tank (1/4" all around? 1/2"?) - I guess the tank should be as flush as you dare with the edges of the supporting beams

The first stand you posted will hold that tank without problem and then a small car on top. (kidding)

Check.

 

[Zalick]

That's the idea. Curious exactly how much extra space I am supposed to be leaving around the edges of the tank (1/4" all around? 1/2"?) - I guess the tank should be as flush as you dare with the edges of the supporting beams



Check.

Great pic. That's what I'm talking about!


Extra space around the edges is up to you. I will say this: The stand you designed with the granite will absolutely hold your tank without any issue what-so-ever. Take that to the bank. I like the granite addition!

I second Fishgate. Get a standard tank, drill holes on one end, and do a coast-to-coast overflow with beananimal setup. Silent, safe, effective.

 

[Ruu]

I second Fishgate. Get a standard tank, drill holes on one end, and do a coast-to-coast overflow with beananimal setup. Silent, safe, effective.

The drilling doesn't bother me (although it would be by far the largest tank I have ever drilled), but where would you put the actual overflow, and where would you drill the holes? I'm not a fan of putting them on either side since they would be visible, and something across the back would be a beast. I'm assuming the bottom would be tempered, but to be honest I am not sure.

Dave

 

[fishgate]

The drilling doesn't bother me (although it would be by far the largest tank I have ever drilled), but where would you put the actual overflow, and where would you drill the holes? I'm not a fan of putting them on either side since they would be visible, and something across the back would be a beast. I'm assuming the bottom would be tempered, but to be honest I am not sure.

Dave

A "coast to coast" is a compartment along the top back edge of the aquarium where the water cascades into. It is siliconed into the tank. You drill 3 holes and use a bulkhead through the back somewhere within this compartment (it doesn't matter much where) for the drains for a Bean style drain. Then you attach your plumbing to the bulkheads down to your sump. You could go over the back or drill 2 more holes for the return(s).

The problem with the megaflows/cornerflows that are bottom drilled is they are designed for a durso style drain. You can modify and use a Herbie style full siphon in each (see my youtube video) and then go over the back for the return but this isn't ideal.

 

[Ruu]

A "coast to coast" is a compartment along the top back edge of the aquarium where the water cascades into. It is siliconed into the tank. You drill 3 holes and use a bulkhead through the back somewhere within this compartment (it doesn't matter much where) for the drains for a Bean style drain. Then you attach your plumbing to the bulkheads down to your sump. You could go over the back or drill 2 more holes for the return(s).

The problem with the megaflows/cornerflows that are bottom drilled is they are designed for a durso style drain. You can modify and use a Herbie style full siphon in each (see my youtube video) and then go over the back for the return but this isn't ideal.

I'm familiar with the concept - I had one run externally on my custom 180 about 10 years ago.

I was just wondering if you really were suggesting a full length 72" internal one, one run down one of the sides, or something clever an external. I can sort of imagine me attaching a 72" length overflow inside the tank, but I can also see myself at the emergency room with no tank and no hand.

Dave