Stand leveling and shimming

BlackTip

Active member
I spent two days trying to level and shim the stand. It is impossible for me to use very long shims pieces under the frame especially in the backside. The stand is very heavy, and I don't have help. The stand is 96"X32"X38" tall.

I used composite and cedar shims from HomeDepot. I want to know whether I placed the shims correctly or not. I am going to trim the shims, after the tank is placed on the stand and filled with water, then I am going to install shoe molding to cover it.

I used an 8' level and a 24" level. I measured front and back side-to-side, diagonal, and left and right.

I apologize for number of photos, and all the help is much appreciated. I never shimmed anything before.

front side-to-side
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back side-to-side
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left
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right
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Diagonal
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Shims front
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Shims right
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Shims back
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Put the shimmy however it makes it lvl as possible but you might have the shims compress and unleave your tank when under full load so maybe fill with tap water to top and then check again
 
+1 on the composite, now go back and fit shims in between the others as much as possible and you`re good to go.
 
Thanks guys, What is wrong with wood?

I'd have used composite, but they are not thick enough for some areas. That is the reason I had to use wood.
 
Wood will compress. And you can stack the composite ones just like the wood ones to get the span you need.
 
Normally I do go w/ the flow here on the composite shims for marine use but in all honesty I would not redo what you have done in swapping out.
I use cedar shims all the time on tanks or heavy granite capped cabinets and the like.
Your stand is wood, flooring is wood, framing is wood...I really don't see it as a big deal.
 
Don't forget, it may be level now without the tank and water, but the floor will compress, the joists will bend, and the stand its self will move. So what you do now may be off once you fill it.
 
I am going to fill the tank with tap water first. During this step, I will observe and adjust the floor and the stand as needed (The floor is supported by jacks).

Is composite shims a must? I tried to use two composite shims in top of each other, and I couldn't get it to work for me. The floor is and the shims are slippery, and the stand is heavy.I couldn't get the first shim to be sill while I push the top one.

I hate to start over, but if it must be done, then I'll do it.
 
BalckTip;23773170 Is composite shims a must? [/QUOTE said:
I don't think so, most of us have been using cedar shims for many years before the composite shims came along.
I use composite shims on tank stands for clients just for peace of mind, mainly for them, seriously doubt anyone is ever going to have a tank stand failure due solely to using cedar over composite shims.
Would it possibly be the call to use composite, I guess, would I redo what has already been done, no.
 
I don't think so, most of us have been using cedar shims for many years before the composite shims came along.
I use composite shims on tank stands for clients just for peace of mind, mainly for them, seriously doubt anyone is ever going to have a tank stand failure due solely to using cedar over composite shims.
Would it possibly be the call to use composite, I guess, would I redo what has already been done, no.

+1 I agree with this 110%
 
The problem with a adjuster like the one above is all the weight is carried by the four screws going into the side of the wood. The possibility of failure over time is great because the wood fibers above the screws will compress under the load and might cause splitting. Also, with all the load being put onto the four corners, the stand could warp or sag in-between the legs. You would need multiple legs. All this depends of course on the amount of weight and construction of the stand. You could get away with these for a small tank. Shims are simply easier.
 
There doesn't seem to be any way to really adjust that particular leveler either... Usually they have a hex on the shaft so you can use a wrench to adjust it under load. I wouldn't use a leveler that doesn't sit under the leg in any case.
 
Lowes sells long pieces of oak wood. On my last tank instead of using a lot of shims for the unlevel section I just got my table saw out and shaved the wood to 1/4'' and nailed it to the bottom. I drilled pilot hole in before the nails were driven this way it wouldn't split. I previously stated oak because it is very hard and is good with not splitting. Much better this way imo
 
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