Stand leveling compound

[zigzag1]

Getting ready to move from a 125 to a 180 and the tile is overall pretty level but each tile is a bit off, like they didn't push each one down flat and even before they dried. I can shim to make sure the tank is level overall. But, Is there a caulking, glue, or something that I can put under the bottom edge when setting the stand in place that that can provide better support under the stand to deal with the how each tile is uneven? Thanks in advance!

 

[zigzag1]

Bump. Someone has surely had to deal with a tank on a less than perfect tile floor previously..

 

[tonyscoots84]

just level it out with shims (i believe cedar should be good) its not that far off is it.

 

[RobE]

I used cedar shims to level my 40b it was almost a 1/4" out of level. They have held up fine with every tank I have used them on.

 

[rthom]

I am thinking about a solution for the same problem. The best Idea I have so far is a thick bead of auto body filler sandwiched between two layers of thick plastic visqueen. It should evenly distribute the load and hopefully not stress the high points of the tile, thus avoiding cracking them.

 

[Dirrk]

don't over think this........just use tapered shims....2...one in each direction, then trim them flush with a box-cutter when done and you won't even see them.

 

[Vinny Kreyling]

And make them the plastic ones.

 

[rrasco]

I've used a piece of carpet cut to the footprint of the stand before.

 

[zigzag1]

I am thinking about a solution for the same problem. The best Idea I have so far is a thick bead of auto body filler sandwiched between two layers of thick plastic visqueen. It should evenly distribute the load and hopefully not stress the high points of the tile, thus avoiding cracking them.

This was along the lines of what I was thinking too, along with shims. I was also considering a layer of visqueen plastic as you were, to keep from gluing the stand to the tile floor. I want it to be significantly waterproof when dried. Is autobody filler fairly water resistant? I was thinking use shims to 'set' the height needed for level in a few key locations, and use a caulking type material between each set of shimmed spots/corners to distribute the weight along the bottom of the stand to the floor. I think I know what I need to do, just to find the right caulking material. Can construction adhesive carry alot of weight without cracking and is good and waterproof? Would silicone work? Any specific types/brands that are tough and waterproof?

Only using shims, all the weight of the tank is sitting on just the shims, a few tiny areas. And as, mentioned this may crack the tile with a large tank of 180 gallons. When I setup the 125 that is now in this location I used about 40-ish shims and had to shim at nearly every tile, as each tile was a different height. So it spread the weight over all the tiles underneath, but they are somewhat visible in some locations - even when the exposed shims are trimmed. I almost think some construction adhesive might work and was hoping someone had experience and could share how they went about doing this, what material to use, what may be gotcha's to watch out for.

Your suggestions are appreciated. TIA!

 

[jerpa]

If you are worried about cosmetics I would shim and cut them so they are 1/8" under the edge of the stand then caulk to cover them. I don't think construcion adhesive will have the compressive strength to spread several thousand pounds. I honestly can't think of anything you can squirt under there that will support that kind of weight.

 

[zigzag1]

Shims would hold the initial position at the corners to maintain the heights at each corner needed to keep the tank level until said compound dries, with a small amount of weight in the tank to compress the compound. Ideally the compound would be applied between two sheets of plastic and the weight of the stand edge sit upon it, then excess trimmed away when dried. Then, the tank filled afterward when all dry and level.

 

[rthom]

Ok, I did a little research and think Marine Fiberglass Repair Filler may be the answer if you want water resistance. It can be used on a boat hull below the waterline. I think the trick will be lowering the stand on the filler evenly to avoid Squeezing filler out of one side. Probably put it down and place empty stand, preferably two people lifting. Then place tank on the stand. That should be sufficient weight to contour to the floor. If it is a two part you may want to use less hardener to give you some additional work time.

 

[girlygears13]

I'm afraid that type of weight will most likely squeeze out whatever you end up using before it has time to cure. Even the best body fillers aren't designed to support weight, they just smooth over rough spots in a body panel. They are usually pretty brittle themselves, can't tell you how much cracked Bondo I have seen...