Starting a 180, initial progress
- Thread starter chrisguy
- Start date
chrisguy
New member
Still working on the stand. I've primed the inside and painted the trim that will go on the outside.
Tonight I did a water change and saved the water in the refugium (top tank in the picture below), which is now about half full. I added a heater, power head and some Live Rock hoping to get a kick start on a pod population. I'm not planning on turning on the lights until the tank is up and running which will be in about 4 more weeks.
Question: I'm going to need a return pump and am estimating that the head will be about 14 feet vertical and about 4 feet horizontal (in reality it will be about 7 feet up, then about 4 feet over and then an additional 7 feet up to the top of the tank). Any pump recommendations?? I am looking at the Sequence Marlin thinking it would be about right for my application.
Tonight I did a water change and saved the water in the refugium (top tank in the picture below), which is now about half full. I added a heater, power head and some Live Rock hoping to get a kick start on a pod population. I'm not planning on turning on the lights until the tank is up and running which will be in about 4 more weeks.
Question: I'm going to need a return pump and am estimating that the head will be about 14 feet vertical and about 4 feet horizontal (in reality it will be about 7 feet up, then about 4 feet over and then an additional 7 feet up to the top of the tank). Any pump recommendations?? I am looking at the Sequence Marlin thinking it would be about right for my application.
belgian_waffleman
New member
Hi Chris,
I had an engineer do the calcs at work for my future setup(hopefully soon):
3/4" line, target flow of 600 GPH. 7ft up, 14ft across and another 7ft up. I added 4 90's and I ended up with 24ft head needed.
This calc includes frictional loses of thwe schedule 40 pipe
Now it is important to know what your target is, or the flow you want to achieve at the outlet.
Based on the pump curve of the Marlin pump at 24ft , you should get about 23 GPM,or 1380GPH. IMO that should suffice for a 180, with spare capacity.
HTH
Waffleman
I had an engineer do the calcs at work for my future setup(hopefully soon):
3/4" line, target flow of 600 GPH. 7ft up, 14ft across and another 7ft up. I added 4 90's and I ended up with 24ft head needed.
This calc includes frictional loses of thwe schedule 40 pipe
Now it is important to know what your target is, or the flow you want to achieve at the outlet.
Based on the pump curve of the Marlin pump at 24ft , you should get about 23 GPM,or 1380GPH. IMO that should suffice for a 180, with spare capacity.
HTH
Waffleman
KurtsReef
Premium Member
Chris, the Barricuda is actually too small for mine...it does not keep up with the dual overflows should have went with a larger pump. I have 14 and 16' heads on the two lines going up, I am sure having it Y into two return lines adds a bit too the head as well. The overflows are rated at 700 each so 1400 GPH total...I had to turn both overflows down a bit.
That limits my experience with this sort of thing.
That limits my experience with this sort of thing.
chrisguy
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10519761#post10519761 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by belgian_waffleman
Hi Chris,
I had an engineer do the calcs at work for my future setup(hopefully soon):
3/4" line, target flow of 600 GPH. 7ft up, 14ft across and another 7ft up. I added 4 90's and I ended up with 24ft head needed.
This calc includes frictional loses of thwe schedule 40 pipe
Now it is important to know what your target is, or the flow you want to achieve at the outlet.
Based on the pump curve of the Marlin pump at 24ft , you should get about 23 GPM,or 1380GPH. IMO that should suffice for a 180, with spare capacity.
HTH
Waffleman
Thanks!! That's just what I wanted to know. Will order the pump soon.
. Somethin like 1.5" or better yet 2". And don't rule out industrial pool pumps...
belgian_waffleman
New member
I would agree with the pipe size.
A 3/4' line at 600GPM is like your regular water line in terms of speed. It will cause some noise line a running faucet.
There is no way I would put 1200GPM through this size, so indeed a 1 1/2 " line would be appropriate, or 2 1 inch lines. It will cut down on noise and frictional losses.
Waffleman
A 3/4' line at 600GPM is like your regular water line in terms of speed. It will cause some noise line a running faucet.
There is no way I would put 1200GPM through this size, so indeed a 1 1/2 " line would be appropriate, or 2 1 inch lines. It will cut down on noise and frictional losses.
Waffleman
thriceanangel
Active member
Your sump looks like a natural reef top down! Nice. Looking forward to your progress!
chrisguy
New member
Got a lot of work done on the stand over the weekend. Finally finishing the trim work. Will be doing the final sanding and painting this week. Should have pictures in a couple days.
Also water tested the patch on the sump and it is holding fine. I’m going to continue to add water to the sump via water changes from the "tub". This should allow me to have a large amount of aged water in the new tank once setup. My goal is to have it running by the end of September. This has been pushed back twice.
Was planning on ordering the return pump today, however my wife enjoyed a 6 hour shopping spree with her friends and racked up a hefty bill. So, I’ll need to wait a week or two before ordering the pump.
I did order two Phosban 150's from Dr Foster Smith. If you use the one time coupon code "DODGE" you get 15% off which pretty much equals the shipping. I will use one for Carbon and one for Phonphate remover.
Also water tested the patch on the sump and it is holding fine. I’m going to continue to add water to the sump via water changes from the "tub". This should allow me to have a large amount of aged water in the new tank once setup. My goal is to have it running by the end of September. This has been pushed back twice.
Was planning on ordering the return pump today, however my wife enjoyed a 6 hour shopping spree with her friends and racked up a hefty bill. So, I’ll need to wait a week or two before ordering the pump.
I did order two Phosban 150's from Dr Foster Smith. If you use the one time coupon code "DODGE" you get 15% off which pretty much equals the shipping. I will use one for Carbon and one for Phonphate remover.
KurtsReef
Premium Member
I like the idea of running two phosban reactors with different media in the second reactor. I currently just have carbon in the filter socks, could eliminate that all together with a second reactor.
After a media bag exploding and putting some media all over the sump floor this week, I like that idea even more.
After a media bag exploding and putting some media all over the sump floor this week, I like that idea even more.
chrisguy
New member
Progress on the Stand
First picture shows the stand as it currently exists. I've got the waines coat paneling with top and bottom trim painted and attached. The inside is primed, and needs to be painted white. All of the grey trim on the top will also be painted the tan color. There is a cutout on the left. That is for a vent plate to allow for a fan to move some air in the stand as it will hold the closed loop pump and three MH Ballasts.
Next picture shows the back of the stand. The unfinished end will be facing the wall. I will be priming and painting the unfinished end. In addition I am making another stand component that will attach to this end to hide all of the plumbing and electrical.
Time for the big confession
I thought I had planned everything out perfectly to allow me to make a stand where the tank would sit inside the top trim and really look nice. My desire was to do it better than my last stand, which had a couple "issues" with the craftsmanship. Unfortunately I looked at the tank height measurement when planning the stand width and ended up making the stand an extra 2" wide. SO, I did a little planning on the fly and decided to put a more finished top to the stand and the tank will just site on top of the stand vs inside of it.
Last Hurtle
I’ve already decided that I will have a basement sump, to the point that it’s already setup and running. The holdup I’m having is where to put the holes to get to the basement. My options are listed below along with a picture of the location. I’ve include some details and/or my thoughts.
1 â€"œ Through the step. This I believe is my preferred route. My thoughts are that this is the easiest to repair after the tank is removed. The challenge will be getting through the stand and the step.
2 â€"œ Through the floor. This is the easiest and most direct route. I just put the Pergo floor in earlier this year. It’s the newer style that is lego like and just snaps together. I have extra pieces, so I could fix the Pergo floor, just not the sub floor.
3 â€"œ Through the wall. It’s an outside wall, but not impossible to get through. I could easily put a vent plate over the opening once the tank is moved. Just not sure how “clean†it would look.
Please feel free to comment and/or share your experiences. The dilemma is that I know we will be moving in about 5 years, so I don’t want to ruin the house or hurt our resale value with some holes in the wrong place.
First picture shows the stand as it currently exists. I've got the waines coat paneling with top and bottom trim painted and attached. The inside is primed, and needs to be painted white. All of the grey trim on the top will also be painted the tan color. There is a cutout on the left. That is for a vent plate to allow for a fan to move some air in the stand as it will hold the closed loop pump and three MH Ballasts.
Next picture shows the back of the stand. The unfinished end will be facing the wall. I will be priming and painting the unfinished end. In addition I am making another stand component that will attach to this end to hide all of the plumbing and electrical.
Time for the big confession
I thought I had planned everything out perfectly to allow me to make a stand where the tank would sit inside the top trim and really look nice. My desire was to do it better than my last stand, which had a couple "issues" with the craftsmanship. Unfortunately I looked at the tank height measurement when planning the stand width and ended up making the stand an extra 2" wide. SO, I did a little planning on the fly and decided to put a more finished top to the stand and the tank will just site on top of the stand vs inside of it.
Last Hurtle
I’ve already decided that I will have a basement sump, to the point that it’s already setup and running. The holdup I’m having is where to put the holes to get to the basement. My options are listed below along with a picture of the location. I’ve include some details and/or my thoughts.
1 â€"œ Through the step. This I believe is my preferred route. My thoughts are that this is the easiest to repair after the tank is removed. The challenge will be getting through the stand and the step.
2 â€"œ Through the floor. This is the easiest and most direct route. I just put the Pergo floor in earlier this year. It’s the newer style that is lego like and just snaps together. I have extra pieces, so I could fix the Pergo floor, just not the sub floor.
3 â€"œ Through the wall. It’s an outside wall, but not impossible to get through. I could easily put a vent plate over the opening once the tank is moved. Just not sure how “clean†it would look.
Please feel free to comment and/or share your experiences. The dilemma is that I know we will be moving in about 5 years, so I don’t want to ruin the house or hurt our resale value with some holes in the wrong place.
Comments on your 3 options :
1.) Are you sure this is as easy to repair as you think? If so I'd take that route as well. i'd call this one plan "B".
2.) if you can replace the pergo easily, the subfloor shouldn't really be that hard to fix either. you could remove a bit of extra pergo now, cut a trap door access hole of sorts and frame around it to support the cut out piece. keep the bit of subfloor you remove and replace it with a sacrificial piece to drill holes in. when the time comes, replace the trap door with the original piece. good as new.
this is the way I would do it if it were my place.
3.) not really a fan of this idea. outside walls have insulation, wiring, vapor barriers, and other things personally i try not to disturb if i can avoid it. I'd consider this my last choice.
Good Luck !
1.) Are you sure this is as easy to repair as you think? If so I'd take that route as well. i'd call this one plan "B".
2.) if you can replace the pergo easily, the subfloor shouldn't really be that hard to fix either. you could remove a bit of extra pergo now, cut a trap door access hole of sorts and frame around it to support the cut out piece. keep the bit of subfloor you remove and replace it with a sacrificial piece to drill holes in. when the time comes, replace the trap door with the original piece. good as new.
this is the way I would do it if it were my place.
3.) not really a fan of this idea. outside walls have insulation, wiring, vapor barriers, and other things personally i try not to disturb if i can avoid it. I'd consider this my last choice.
Good Luck !
chrisguy
New member
Chris - Your absolutely right, replacing a piece of the subfloor would not be hard at all. I just wasn't thinking things through. Matter of fact, I've replaced subfloor in other parts of my house. Man do I feel dumb!
Boy will my wife have a crazy look on her face when I start drilling holes in the floor that she's been wanting for years and I finally installed.
Boy will my wife have a crazy look on her face when I start drilling holes in the floor that she's been wanting for years and I finally installed.
KurtsReef
Premium Member
I vote for the floor Chris, going through the wall or the stair will add more bend too the route the water will need to take.
I considered going through the wall then the floor with mine as there were already holes in the wall AND it would not be seen anyway, but decided on the floor because it is easily repaired if the tank were to ever get moved/come down and it provided pretty direct route for the water lines.
Stand is going to match the room great BTW
I considered going through the wall then the floor with mine as there were already holes in the wall AND it would not be seen anyway, but decided on the floor because it is easily repaired if the tank were to ever get moved/come down and it provided pretty direct route for the water lines.
Stand is going to match the room great BTW
RandyO
Active member
Hey Chris,
Looking good. I haven't visited this thread since May. Been busy myself.
I saw your glass overflow box. How much room did you leave between the top of the overflow box and the bottom edge of the trim on the aquarium? It does not look like much. Without teeth in your overflow box, you don't have any way to lower the water level. I would guess the water will crest 1-2" over the top of that box if you use a large return pump.
Speaking of that, I have an extra Hammerhead Pump. Let me know if you want to try it out on your system when your close to up and running. I have an extra Barracuda too, but need to replace the seal on it.
Looking good. I haven't visited this thread since May. Been busy myself.
I saw your glass overflow box. How much room did you leave between the top of the overflow box and the bottom edge of the trim on the aquarium? It does not look like much. Without teeth in your overflow box, you don't have any way to lower the water level. I would guess the water will crest 1-2" over the top of that box if you use a large return pump.
Speaking of that, I have an extra Hammerhead Pump. Let me know if you want to try it out on your system when your close to up and running. I have an extra Barracuda too, but need to replace the seal on it.
