Starting a new 90 Progress will be updated
- Thread starter Dano999
- Start date
Dano999
Premium Member
If I had to do it over I would have spent a little more time studying. Although I spent over 170 hrs reading online and in books I still allowed the LFS to make my first buying decisions.
Below is a list of things I would probably do over. Not listed in any particular order.
1. Buy a 125 gal vs the 90 gal. The tank and stand was only about 20% of the total expense anyway.
2. Start out with as large of a sump that will fit under you tank but leave room for future equipment. The Aquafuge Pro "small" fuge I started with is probably fine for a 75 gal or smaller but I did not feel comfortable with the skimming capabilities. The DIY sump we won't talk about as my acrylic skills are a lot less proficient than I had thought. The custom is awesome but I would lower the water level next time. The water level is 13" coming from the drain/skimmer area on a 16" high sump. Even with a sock filter and a lip around the edge there is some splashing that creates salt creep.
3. Plan better for the future.
4. Get a "quality" skimmer that is rated higher than you think you will need.
5. Don't overkill on the return pump as the flow through the fuge should be slow anyway and the 2 Koralia #4s are plenty of circulation in a 90 gal.
6. Don't order large piece of LR and buy it locally from other reefers.
7. Use a controlled auto top off from the beginning (although the gravity fed never did fail).
8. Don't put Caulerpa in the sump stay with Chaeto.
9. Miracle Mud may not be worth the expense. (this is questionable).
10. Put the CUC in as soon as green hair algae starts to show.
11. Always highlight and copy your replies before you spell check or submit. Nothing more frustrating than spending a hour writing a reply then trying to submit it and having the server either tell you you have too many picture or it times out and you have to start over.
I got the sump from http://www.acrylicsumps.com/.
Dano999
Premium Member
Below is the latest shot of the sump. I just changed the lighting today. The other lights were getting a lot of salt creep on them and the Chaeto was not growing as well as I would like. I also put the skimmer on a new "platform" today to raise it a few more inches. I just bought a plastic food container and drilled some holes in the top to allow the air to escape.
I don't know what equipment I haven't previously posted except the Hanna Phosphate Photometer which I picked up last week. I also included shots of the AC Jr and Tunze controllers.
Here's a Full Tank Shot. Really tough to get everything exposed properly. I want to get an additional flash. It would eliminate the shadows.
Temp - 79.8
SG - 1.024
NH4 - 0.0
NO2 - 0.0
NO3 - 0.0
PH - 8.16
Ca - 480
PO4 - 0.4
dKH - 8.6
Mg - 1380
Mavrk
New member
One thing I noticed is that you have a flood light and a reflector. Usually you don't need the reflector if you have the flood light (they have the reflector built in). It is kind of hard to tell if this is the case, but just a suggestion.
I started dosing iron last night to help with chaeto growth thanks to a suggestion on this board. I'll let you know if it works, it might help your chaeto as well.
I started dosing iron last night to help with chaeto growth thanks to a suggestion on this board. I'll let you know if it works, it might help your chaeto as well.
Dano999
Premium Member
I originally had the reflector removed but it seemed to have a wider reflection with it on. Without it the edges of the fuge seemed darker.
I am going to check it again when I receive the 75W 5100K TCP bulb I ordered. This one is a 60W 6500K bulb.
Yes let me know if the iron helps. I put a new batch of Chaeto in this weekend which is why it looks pretty full.
I may also order another SB-600 along with a SU-800 so I can get shots without shadows. I'll use it for more than just the tank shots.
Also raising the skimmer has increased my output some. Which is good since my PO4 is at .04. I tested my RO/DI water and it is at .07. I'm trying to find out why. I may also get a phosphate reactor but I would think that would also reduce my Chaeto growth. Kind of a dilemma since you grow Chaeto to also remove Phosphates. So I am going to wait until I see if the Chaeto growth increases and controls it naturally.
I get a film of green algae on the glass which has to be cleaned every other day. Do you get this?
I am going to check it again when I receive the 75W 5100K TCP bulb I ordered. This one is a 60W 6500K bulb.
Yes let me know if the iron helps. I put a new batch of Chaeto in this weekend which is why it looks pretty full.
I may also order another SB-600 along with a SU-800 so I can get shots without shadows. I'll use it for more than just the tank shots.
Also raising the skimmer has increased my output some. Which is good since my PO4 is at .04. I tested my RO/DI water and it is at .07. I'm trying to find out why. I may also get a phosphate reactor but I would think that would also reduce my Chaeto growth. Kind of a dilemma since you grow Chaeto to also remove Phosphates. So I am going to wait until I see if the Chaeto growth increases and controls it naturally.
I get a film of green algae on the glass which has to be cleaned every other day. Do you get this?
Dano999
Premium Member
OK using the Hanna Phosphate Photometer I checked directly from the RO/DI, from the auto top off container and from the tank. The RO/DI TDS just started reading 001 because it as 000 two days ago.
Below are the PO4 readings.
RO/DI - .03
Container - .02
Tank - .04
I just got some new DI resin in because it was starting to change color so I knew it wouldn't be long before I was reading higher than 000.
Below are the PO4 readings.
RO/DI - .03
Container - .02
Tank - .04
I just got some new DI resin in because it was starting to change color so I knew it wouldn't be long before I was reading higher than 000.
Dano999
Premium Member
Just to ease everyone's concern below are pictures with the pump off. I leave it off for up to two hours when I take pictures. The Tunze Auto top off has an alarm when the water gets about an inch from the top and it has never gone off.
The total volume of the sump is 36 gal. It holds 28 gals when it's running which leaves 8 gals to hold the overflow water (not counting some displacement for the skimmer (.2 gals). The most I would ever need is 6 gals. I still have 7 gals left with the pump off in the pictures below. I can provide another gallon or two by lowering the water in the return area but this created microbubbles because the water from the fuge had to fall further.
Pump ON
Pump OFF
The total volume of the sump is 36 gal. It holds 28 gals when it's running which leaves 8 gals to hold the overflow water (not counting some displacement for the skimmer (.2 gals). The most I would ever need is 6 gals. I still have 7 gals left with the pump off in the pictures below. I can provide another gallon or two by lowering the water in the return area but this created microbubbles because the water from the fuge had to fall further.
Pump ON
Pump OFF
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