Starting new SPS 29gl tank any advise?

[DeepBlueZoas]

I gave my girlfriend a 29 gallon bio-cube WITHOUT the stock sump I cut it out.

The tank will be mostly acro's and monti's Wanted to know if you had any advice before setting up the tank.

Here is what we have so far,

• 29 gallon biocube without the stock sump (I took it out to re-seal the tank.

• A Ecosystem Pro 60 HOB refugium (with a rio 600 pt for the built in protein skimmer). Was going to put chaeto and live rock in the refugium. And a filter pad for some mecanical filtration.

• A jebao RW-4

• Current 150w HQI metal halide with geissmann megachrome blue bulb 21k

• I was going to put 2-3inchs of fiji pink sand for a deep sand bed

• I was also going to use the tropic marin bio active salt mix for initial water and weekly water changes.

Is there anything I should add to this list to help these corals thrive or anything that you have really noticed that made a big difference.

I will try to post some pictures soon.

Oh and I noticed the other day that sunlight will hit the tank directly for a few hours a day where I was going to set it up would this cause any problems with algae or anything else?

And any 2 part dosing recommendations was thinking about B-ionic

Thanks so much guys

 

[acexotix]

I have had my bc 29 up for right at a year now. In the beginning (first 6 months) it was a nightmare. Everythimg died constantly. I almost shut it down.

You will see algae growth where the sun hits it. I get a little where the sun hits mine but it isnt too bad. I recommend a ton of flow. I upgraded the stock return pump to a cobalt mj1200 and run two powerheads in the tank.

I had a ton of issues when I ran chemicals. (Purigen and chemi pure elite). I now run dragons breath macro and dilter pad and it's awesome.

I also recommend a skimmer. Since I added one, it's definitely been great. I run LEDs so idk about your mh but sure it's fine.

Anyway, these things have about a million threads out there about mods. My biggesy recommendation is keep it simple. Dont use anything except RODI either.

I have mine on an apex controller and am using the brs dosers for calc and alk but don't need to dose much. I switched to red sea coral pro salt and have noticed great results since that change as well.

 

[DeepBlueZoas]

I had a ton of issues when I ran chemicals. (Purigen and chemi pure elite). I now run dragons breath macro and dilter pad and it's awesome.

Dont use anything except RODI either.

I switched to red sea coral pro salt and have noticed great results since that change as well.

Thanks,

What kinds of issues did you have when you used purigen and chemi pure elite?

I was probably just going to use GAC in a media bag in the refugium.

What salt where you using before you switched?

And is the water being de-ionized or not a big issue or does that matter?

 

[acexotix]

My thought is that my water was "too clean". It's true you want pristine water but you don't want sterile. I think between my low feeding and stock list along with the chemicals, there were absolutely no nutrients. Nothing survived. Idk if this is 100% what happened but for me, right when I stopped running it, everything and to get better.

I did have some ppl tell me they can leach aluminum oxide or something as well but idk that to be true either.

Personally, I just take the, everything looks good so it must work, approach.

I would recommend the rodi especially if you're going to do sps. I was at about 5 ppm before adding di and had issues there as well. After adding DI to my system I saw improvement. I also noticed I want fighting cyano any more which was incredibly irritating to deal with.

Also, it took me a while to realize but if you have hair algae, and at some point you'll have hair and cyano I'm sure, even when your test kits tell you You have 0 phosphates, it's wrong. The algae eats it all to grow so the test will show 0 but really theyre jist using it as food so it gives a misleading result.

 

[DeepBlueZoas]

Also, it took me a while to realize but if you have hair algae, and at some point you'll have hair and cyano I'm sure, even when your test kits tell you You have 0 phosphates, it's wrong. The algae eats it all to grow so the test will show 0 but really theyre jist using it as food so it gives a misleading result.

Yea in my other tanks I don't usually test for phosphate if there is already algae, if there is algae I know there is phosphates and start running gfo.

I never heard of anyone using dragons breath in a refugium how often do you harvest it out of the refugium and how much.

 

[acexotix]

I started with it in my display but it would grow and break off so now I just have a chunk in the middle chamber of my media box right under my filter pad. I just take it or as it gets full and leave a small chunk.

 

[vinhle00]

+ 1 on test kits & ro/di unit.

I would also add refractometer to the list. If you live in a colder place it should be fine but with metal halide and 29 gallon tank, heat might become an issues so you should look into fans or chillers.

 

[acexotix]

The heat issue was a big factor for me going LED over MH. I retrofitted mine into the hood too so I still get to use the stock hood. I think this had helped me with evap rates among other things also.

 

[DeepBlueZoas]

+ 1 on test kits & ro/di unit.

I would also add refractometer to the list. If you live in a colder place it should be fine but with metal halide and 29 gallon tank, heat might become an issues so you should look into fans or chillers.

She has a test kits for calcium, mag, ph, nitrates, nitrite, ammonia, and alk as well as salinity

Any suggestions for what she should keep these levels at?

For the temperature would 80 degrees be okay for part of the day ? Hopefully I'll be able to keep it under 80 most of the day with a fan. Any specific fans for aquariums you know of?

Thanks for all the great tips guys.

 

[DeepBlueZoas]

The heat issue was a big factor for me going LED over MH. I retrofitted mine into the hood too so I still get to use the stock hood. I think this had helped me with evap rates among other things also.

About how much evaporation did you have each week with the metal halide and was it 150w? What was your temp at when you had the MH.

Thanks,

Ken

 

[acexotix]

I never used MH. I had the stock hood which used power compacts for a couple of months and then upgraded to LEDs.

 

[acexotix]

I have my apex to turn my heater off at 78. I don't think my heater has ever been on because temp will fluctuate between 78 and 80.5 all day. Just go for consistency. There's plenty of temp swings in the ocean. 80 is fine. It's probably the least thing I focus on. I will get an alarm at 81.5 but Thays never happened.

My calcium is at 450
Alk is at 10

I have two BRS dosers on it but right now I haven't turned them on because I do a water change every 10 days and the red sea coral pro salt keeps it in check. I am doing research into the "zero water change tanks" and if I decide to go that route then the dosers will become critical

 

[vinhle00]

80 degrees is fine, as for water parameters just go for stability and not specific ranges.

I'm a firm believer in water changes and when it comes to nano tanks i think its even more important.

 

[DeepBlueZoas]

I have my apex to turn my heater off at 78. I don't think my heater has ever been on because temp will fluctuate between 78 and 80.5 all day. Just go for consistency. There's plenty of temp swings in the ocean. 80 is fine. It's probably the least thing I focus on. I will get an alarm at 81.5 but Thays never happened.

My calcium is at 450
Alk is at 10

I have two BRS dosers on it but right now I haven't turned them on because I do a water change every 10 days and the red sea coral pro salt keeps it in check. I am doing research into the "zero water change tanks" and if I decide to go that route then the dosers will become critical

Okay cool ill keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't get too high or swing up and down too much.

And my roommate gave me a 5 stage rodi filter :dance: so just have to order new filters

 

[DeepBlueZoas]

80 degrees is fine, as for water parameters just go for stability and not specific ranges.

I'm a firm believer in water changes and when it comes to nano tanks i think its even more important.

That's what I've heard a lot I'll make sure to go for stability.

What would you say would be a good weekly water change for a 30 gallon system with probably a heavy load of fish or a moderate load?

Thanks again guys.

 

[BeanMachine]

That's what I've heard a lot I'll make sure to go for stability.

What would you say would be a good weekly water change for a 30 gallon system with probably a heavy load of fish or a moderate load?

Thanks again guys.

I'd recommend not going to crazy stocking a nano with fish. Small all in one tanks can be difficult if you can't remove the waste effectively. I would stick to 2 or 3 fish and go from there.

Keep your rockscape away from the walls, and make sure you have lots of flow to keep the detritus suspended.

Personally, I would go with 5 gallons per week.

 

[acexotix]

I do 5 gallons a week but am actually doing some tests to get closer to once per month. Idk if its going to be realistic.

Stocking wise, I agree with Bean. Sps need teally clean water and that can be tough in the little system. I have one three atripe damsel, one pajsma cardinal and 2 chromis. I feed every other day.

 

[DeepBlueZoas]

I'd recommend not going to crazy stocking a nano with fish. Small all in one tanks can be difficult if you can't remove the waste effectively. I would stick to 2 or 3 fish and go from there.

Keep your rockscape away from the walls, and make sure you have lots of flow to keep the detritus suspended.

Personally, I would go with 5 gallons per week.

Its not a all in one tank anymore it has an ecosystem pro 60 hob refugium but I will add one at a time and see how it goes.

 

[DeepBlueZoas]

I do 5 gallons a week but am actually doing some tests to get closer to once per month. Idk if its going to be realistic.

Stocking wise, I agree with Bean. Sps need teally clean water and that can be tough in the little system. I have one three atripe damsel, one pajsma cardinal and 2 chromis. I feed every other day.

Okay thanks what do you feed every other day? And what are your water parameters while feeding this way with the 5 gallon per week water change?

 

[acexotix]

I feed lrs reef frenzy nano. Tank parameters are ammonia 0 nitrite 0 nitrate 2-5 calcium 450 alk 10. Thats why I'm working on going longer in between water changes because I think there's room to play to save a bit on salt