Step-by-step account of my first reef (with lots of pics)

[bcoons]

Nice looking little thread you've got going here .

BCoons - Not to hijack Mike's thread but that is a condylactus anemone, not a RBTA. I only have one confirmed case of a clown actually hosting in one but hey, it's still a chance right?

Also if you plan on keeping corals yank those Camel shrimp pronto. They are most definitely coral eaters and not safe for any size reef tank let alone a 20 gallon one.

And now I remember how good our aquascaping looked!

Thanks, I have to admit I wasn't sure what it is. There is a really small "Fin & Feather" shop in Copperas Cove where I got it. They aren't real experts on salt water matters (but they probably know more than me! )

I'll remember about those shrimp. They'll have to go if/when I get some corals.

I usually get down to Austin on Saturdays, but I may be coming down the Wed before Thanksgiving. If so I'll look you up at the store.

Dudester, - I really like your writing style and pics. Very enjoyable reading. I love all these setup and tank diary threads. I learn so much by going through them and seeing the design process play out. Gives me tons of ideas. If you're interested in back up power for the tank I may be able to give you some ideas. I do solar power for my ham radio station, and I have a battery backup system for my tank's life support in case of power outages. Also have two generators to back that up. I guess the best way not to have long power outages is to have the gear to be ready for them. Murphy will then go elsewhere!:rollface:

Regards,
Bruce

 

[Dudester]

Bruce, glad you don't consider this boring or tedious reading. By the lack of input/questions/comments from others, I'd guess you may be the only one who doesn't mind reading it :lol:. Oh well, I'm documenting all of this to potentially help others like yourself, and hopefully to get help from some experienced reefers out there. Once I finish documenting how I got where I am today, I'll start hammering the board, so to speak, with questions of my own. That's when I'll really need others' help. Thanks for your input regarding battery backup - I'd love to get some specific information from you. The only absolutely necessary factor is that in order to work with my system, it has to be small, since it will have to fit either on the top shelf of my cabinet or behind the cabinet on the floor. I should measure those dimensions and let you know ...

OK, I just measured, and there's absolutely no room inside my cabinet or on the floor behind the stand. If I want a battery backup unit of any kind, I'll have to build a shelf onto the back of my light rack. There's enough space behind it to accomodate something that's no longer than 12" and no deeper than 6". Anything come to mind in that size? If so, I'd be happy to build the addition. My wife swore that I'd never use the tools that I bought to make the cabinet again - this way I can prove her wrong!

Speaking of my light rack ...

 

[Dudester]

light rack construction

light rack construction

The next step for this project was to provide some light. It wasn't essential up to this point to have any additional light other than ambient room light, so there was no hurry except that this would determine when I could begin stocking the joint. I had purchased my AquaMedic 250W MH pendant long before I ever put any water in the tank and before I knew where it would be situated in my home (FYI - BAD IDEA). This was one of the only choices I made without sufficient planning. I chose this since this is the light John uses and I really like his setup. Additionally, it was on sale at www.helolights.com. Also, I liked the idea of a single bulb for my small system. Being a diver and favoring a slightly bluish tint, I selected a 15K XM bulb. There were several challenges to using this MH pendant. First and foremost this pendant is supposed to be hung from the ceiling. I didn't realize that my system would be sitting in front of a column with a ceiling that is probably 30 feet high, so therefore I could not suspend it as recommended in the instructions. I considered building a shelf off of the column behind my tank from which to hang the pendant, but the column is angled (not a flat surface). The angle and the fact that the shelf would have to protrude several feet off of the column meant an extremely difficult construction project as well as a visually unappealing product. I then had a revelation and decided to build the light rack so that it would be attached to the back of the cabinet, then ascend above and project toward the front of the tank. The added bonus is that there's no shelf built into the column behind the tank, meaning less holes to fill if/when the system is taken down. When will that occur? -- when I'm ready to build my monster system. Anyway, back to the light rack - here's how I did it.

I got some more of the 3/4" birch plywood at Home Depot. Again, I wanted the rack to be only minimally visible, and it needed to be secured onto the cabinet. I therefore cut the main vertical piece in the shape of a trapezoid so that it would be tapered behind the tank and therefore, less conspicuous. The lower half of the rack was fashioned as wide as the cabinet so that it could be secured to the cabinet. The height was determined by the fact that I wanted the pendant about 8" off of the water surface.

The horizontal piece at the top projects from back to front over the center of the tank, and that is where I mounted my light. A separate piece of plywood was cut with 45 degree angles and this served as a brace to support the light pendant. Remember this picture from before?

Sorry, I know the rack is finished here, but this shows how I mounted the pendant to the rack. The pendant came with some hardware to hang it from the ceiling. I simply drilled 2 holes into the top of the rack (where it would be centered over the tank), disassembled the hardware, then threaded some wire between the two mounting screws and over the top of my rack, and voala, there I had it! Quite simple, actually. The wire is not visible in the above image, nor is it visible when viewing my tank. In the photo you can see one of the mounting screws over the pendant. The wire passes through this screw, through a hole in the wood, over the top (horozontally) and down the hole on the other side and into the other mounting screw.

The next step was to build a shelf for my light ballast. I didn't want the ballast inside the cabinet due to concerns for heat accumulation, so I placed it behind the light rack. This is just a simple shelf that I extended onto the back of the light rack. I cut it so that it would fit my ballast exactly, and nothing further. I wish I had made it a little bigger, in order to store things on, but I can always add that modification at a later date.

And here it is, completed. Ignore the plumbing, I'll get to that later. The devices on top of the ballast are an Aqualifter air pump and prefilter for my HOB overflow. I should also mention that I drilled numerous holes in the vertical piece of the rack where the ballast sits, in order to provide ventilation. Sorry, don't have a picture of this, but see if you can imagine multiple round holes in the wood behind the ballast ... there you go.

Now I had to provide a way to secure the rack to my cabinet. I used two more pieces of 3/4" plywood that were tall and wide enough to provide several sites to drill into the side 2x4's of my cabinet frame (in the back). These are illustrated here.

What I'm not showing is that I was nervous that these wouldn't be able to handle the weight of my ballast and pendant. I therefore added additional pieces of wood to the right angle joints and screwed these into both the back of the rack and the side "legs," know what I mean?

Here's a view of the bottom of the finished product looking from the left and behind the cabinet (ignore the sump and skimmer, I'll get to those later). The legs are drilled into the inside of the back sides of the cabinet with 3" screws and no wood glue, since I wanted to be able to remove this. This will be essential when I need to do maintenance on my SCWD (recommended every 6 months for cleaning), since I can't get to it with the light rack mounted.

The added benefit of this light rack is that it conceals a lot of the plumbing from the rear of the tank. This is less convenient for me when I need to work behind the tank, but those will be rare occasions (hopefully) and, as I mentioned, aesthetics were of primary importance.

The last few steps were to add some trim to the visible portions of the light rack to conceal the end grain of the plywood. This was added to the entire top surface as well as the upper half of the rack. Once applied, the rack was stained, sealed with polyurethane (3 coats, of course), then mounted onto the cabinet. Oh yeah, almost forgot, I also had to make some holes in the upper brace and at the rear of the rack for my pendant electrical cord. This was a bit of a cluster @#%&. I used a drill and made multiple holes in the wood, then chopped out the intervening segments of wood until I had a hole. I then used a file to smooth out the holes. This doesn't look good but fortunately it's pretty well hidden by the light pendant. You can see the electrical cord passing through the rack in the photo below. I later learned that there's a thing called a hole saw that attaches to a drill and makes a perfect hole ... brilliant! Wish I knew about this before. Oh well, overall I am very happy with how this turned out.

 

[Dudester]

Whoops, sorry, I meant to say "www.hellolights.com"

(there are two of the letter "l")

Now if someone could be so kind as to tell me how to use a highlighted descriptive word or phrase instead of using the entire web address or link address, I could tidy up this thread a little more.

 

[SRVDVM]

Tank looks great!
I think you did a real nice job on the stand. I like the fact the doors hide the 2x4 construction. The light stand is very creative and looks very nice. I think the whole tank looks good where you placed it in the house.
Can tou tell us about the auto-topoff system? I t looks like what I want to do on my 90 ga tank.

 

[Dudester]

SRVDVM - thanks for your comments and, sure, I'd be happy to discuss the auto-topoff system, even if it's a little out of order. If "SRV" is a reference to Stevie Ray Vaughn, I'd do anything for you.

The auto-topoff system is a Tunze Osmolator with the Tunze Calcium Dispenser. The photos I'm going to show are with the infrared sensor and alarm float valve located in the sump. For the purposes of this thread, I don't have a sump yet, but oh well.

The brains of the auto-topoff unit is this controller that I mounted on the inside left door.

This provides feedback from an infrared sensor that's installed in my sump (previously it was just taped onto the back of my main tank by its cord). As the water evaporates from the system, RO/DI water from a 7.1 gallon storage container is pumped into the tank. This water first passes through a small kalk reactor that sits in the storage container, so my tank is frequently topped off with kalkwasser in small portions. The unit is extremely safe in that if it remains on for some reason, it automatically shuts off after running for 10 consecutive minutes. Additionally, there is a separate probe that's on a float valve, and if the water level in the sump rises above where I set the float probe, an alarm goes off (it's loud, too!).

Here's a close-up of the infrared sensor and float-triggered alarm probe installed in my sump (beside the heaters). The infrared sensor is the black and grey one at the left of the image located with its tip at the top of the water line. The float-triggered alarm probe is located higher up (for obvious reasons).

These were mounted in such a way that when I turn off the return pump from my sump and the sump level rises due to siphoning (I'll explain later if you don't know what I mean), the alarm is still at a higher level and won't go off. That way, I don't have to keep unplugging it and plugging it back in. Hope that makes sense.

Here's a picture of the container that stores the RO/DI water for top-off.

I went with the Tunze storage container, but you can use whatever you want. I picked this one because it holds more water than the standard 5 gallon bucket, and knowing it's exact dimensions, I knew how much space I needed on the top shelf of my cabinet.

 

[Dudester]

I should also mention that the kalkwasser returns to my display tank at a region of high flow, in order to distribute the kalkwasser well and not harm any corals that will eventially be mounted beneath the tubing. Currently it's emptying just over the end of one of my Locline outlets from the closed loop.

 

[Dudester]

For my next update, I'll spend a little time on how my tank never really "cycled." I say a little time because I've just discovered my first plague ... a relatively small (as far as I can tell) outbreak of flatworms :mad2:.

I had been testing daily for nitrate and ammonia, and never saw a spike. I figured that by adding live rock there would be sufficient die-off of organisms from the rock that I would see a cycle, but I never did. My ammonia levels were always <0.25 mg/L by the Salifert test kit, and my nitrates were never more than 2.5 mg/L. I guess my live rock was truly fully cured afterall. I therefore tested out the theory that I had enough beneficial bacteria in the system. I took about 1/3 of a piece of raw shrimp (1.5 cubic centimeter sized) and fastened it to a piece of LR using a rubberband. This was placed into the tank and although, despite testing daily, I never saw an ammonia spike, my nitrate did increase to 7.5 two days after the shrimp was added. This was fun for me, since I began seeing pods (mostly amphipods) and worms (mostly bristleworms) emerge from the aquascape to feast on the shrimp. I removed what was left of the shrimp carcass and ... holy mackerel that sucker stunk :eek2:! I couldn't get the smell off of my hands for a full day (note to self: next time wear gloves). Over the next week to 10 days my nitrate level decreased to 2.5, and I figured I was ready for something else to look at besides rocks, pods and worms. That being said, you wouldn't believe how many hours I stood at the side of my tank with a flashlight checking out all of the interesting things that came along with my LR. I highly recommend you take advantage of this opportunity if you're setting up a new system. Here's a tip - use a red lense over the flashlight or, if you want to go super cheap, put some red celophane (sp?) over the flashlight bulb; the critters won't flee!

That's all I have time for right now - gotta go siphon out some flatworms before treating the tank with Flatworm Exit. Next I'll update the thread on my temperature problems, then introduce you to my first coral.

 

[bcoons]

My tank did pretty much the same thing, cycle-wise. I put in pre-cured live rock, only out of the water for about an hour or so. I had an ammonia reading of about 0.25 the next day, then everything went to zero. After I added some fish the nitrates have climbed a bit, but never ammonia or nitrites.

I'm currently in Monterey, CA. I just had to jump on the hotel wifi system to check RC! I just spent the whole day at the Monterey Bay aquarium. A totally awesome place.

 

[rhan101277]

Nice tank

 

[Dudester]

bcoons - That's definitately one of the benefits of purchasing cured LR. Sure it costs more, but there's no cycle to wait out and you can avoid that horrible smell that accompanies the die-off. I've been to the Monterey Bay aquarium myself and you're right, it's quite a sight to behold.

rhan101277 - Welcome to RC and glad you like my tank. Here's some more ...

editorial comment - someone's got to show me how to do that "Welcome to Reef Central" banner


My next challenge was temperature control. My goal was a temperature of 80, and I decided to tolerate a range of 79-81. In September, it was extremely hot here in Texas, in fact it was the hottest September on record in TX. My temperature range was from 81.1 to 82.9, and this was a little too hot for my taste. The primary sources of heat were my MH light, the Mag12 closed loop pump, and the ambient room temperature. By this time I had increased my light photoperiod to 10 hours/day. This originated at 4 hours/day, and I increased it by an hour every 2 days. Since I didn't want to decrease my photoperiod, and I didn't want to cool my living room any further, I chose to use a 6" fan for evaporative cooling. This was clipped onto my closed loop plumbing and not only does it cool by evaporation, it also blows some of the heat from the light away from the tank. In 1/2 day the tank temp decreased to 78.6. Fortunately the fan has a high and a low setting, so I just dropped it down a notch. This situation was not yet ideal, as the tank became quite cool at night (with the MH off). I then got a timer for the fan and set it in such a way that the fan blows continually during the "lights on" period, and at night it cycles on and off about every 2-3 hours. This has provided me with greatly improved temperature stability, right about in the range I was shooting for. I forgot to mention it before but my MH light is, of course, on a timer as well.

This photo of my powerstrip shows the fan cord (torquoise blue) plugged into the fan timer. The timer has multiple ON/OFF toggle switches, and that's better seen in the second pic below.

This second image also shows my Mag12 pump, some of the closed loop plumbing (the center two PVC segments) and SCWD, and you can also see where one of the "legs" of my light rack is screwed into the cabinet frame (look at the left side). My topoff reservoir sits on this shelf as well, just to the left of the Mag12. The astute observer will also notice the top of my Remora protein skimmer and the spa flex plumbing (the two on the ends). These items are incorporated into the sump/fuge, which I'll go into later.

As far as temperature control goes, I'd like to upgrade my current system. It's pretty good, but for instance, we just experienced a cold front with temps as low as 28 degrees. My system as it stands now, even with two 50W heaters, could not compensate for the sudden colder temperature in my house, and I had to turn off the fan manually because the tank got down to 76.5 degrees . I will leave the fan off entirely during "lights off" and I'll have to remember to reset my fan timer once it warms up again. Another problem with my current situation is that I'm evaporating more than 10 gallons of water per week. That's a lot for a 30 gal tank, IMO. The final problem is that the fan is not all that visually appealing. Ideally I would have mounted a fan over my sump instead, but when I show you the images of my sump you'll see why this is not a good option. I'm thinking of getting an Aquacontroller Jr. or a Ranco temperature controller for more precise thermal control. Anyone have any thoughts, suggestions or ideas?

 

[Dudester]

first coral

first coral

Almost one month to the day after adding my live rock, my parameters were as follows:
T 78.6-80.4
S.G. 1.025
pH ~8.2
Ca 420
kH/alk 9.92/3.54
NH3 <0.25
NO3 ~2.5

I did a 25% water change then went out to my LFS to buy my first coral :dance:. I had done a lot of research (and got a recommendation from my mentor, John) and determined that a frogspawn (Euphyllia divisa) would be a good starter LPS for me. It's pretty hardy, does well in the light and flow conditions of my tank, and it can either be fed meaty foods or live on light alone via it's symbiotic microorganisms.

Here's what I brought home. Well, not exactly. After a few weeks I wasn't happy with the color and traded it in for this one. It's got nice green polyps with purple knob-like tips.

Initially I fed it frozen mysis shrimp delivered from a turkey baster, but now it eats a varied diet that I'll spell out in a later post. In the meantime, and hopefully to generate some interest in this here thread, here are some more pics of Mr. Froggy.

 

[KingfishJohn]

Show pics of your new frag

 

[Dudester]

I would, but that would be waaaaaaaaay out of order :smokin:. I can't let people think I have any SPS in the tank when I haven't even talked about my algae blooms, my clean-up crew, my sump/fuge setup, my softies and zoos, my quarantine tank (and why I got it), etc. etc. That would be irresponsible of me. So much still to document. Oh yeah, and the biggest reason of all ...










I haven't taken any pics of it yet

 

[Dudester]

For my next update, I'll discuss my cleanup crew. Within one week of running my lights, I began seeing signs of algae growth on my live rock. It was quite heavy, particularly the brown algae (diatoms, I think). The coralline algae was, at this point, no longer visible and was totally covered in brown :eek1:. There was also a little bubble algae, some green hair algae, as well as several (in the 10's to 20's) aptasia anenomes emerging from the LR.

I ordered my cleanup crew from Reeftopia (www.reeftopia.com). They were very helpful on the phone, and my crew came in excellent condition with instructions on acclimation. Here's what I got:

1 emerald mithrax crab (eats bubble algae and other macroalgae)
3 peppermint shrimp (for aptasia control)
1 fighting conch (conch make sand clean :bounce2
12 golden astrea snails (clean rocks and glass)
24 cerith snails (good sand, glass and rock cleaners)
12 nassarius polygonatus snails (great sand cleaners)
24 small blue-leg hermit crabs (eat up all the rest)

The moment the emerald crab hit the tank, he started working, two-fisting (clawing) mouthfulls of algae. It was a blast watching him go to town. He also ate the bubble algae, as advertised.

The peppermint shrimp went into hiding for a little while. I'd see them out at night, and after only 2 days there was not a single aptasia in my tank (the little pigs!) :uzi:. Good shrimp! It was nice to see them do what they were hired for.

At this point, the shrimp are much more gregarious. In fact, whenever I put my hand in the tank to add a specimen or rearrange something, they climb right onto my hand. I'm told that this is a rarity (?) and that I have cool peps.

The nassarius snails are a lot of fun to watch. I can see their tentacles sticking out of the sand, and as soon as a piece of food hits the water, they emerge to the top and scurry for their helping.

After about one week my tank was void of all nuisance algae and the coralline algae of the LR was again shining through.

Oh yeah, I also ordered 3 polyps of orange Ricordea florida from Reeftopia. They were supposed to have come mounted on a piece of LR, but instead they were free-floating with some small oyster shells attached to their feet. When I put them in my tank, they blew all over the place, but fortunately I was able to retrieve 2 of them. I have no idea where the third went. I placed the two polyps on a piece of LR from my tank, and enclosed this in a fine mesh bag (actually a jello-strainer bag) so they could receive light and water flow, but still be in continuity with the rock. I rubber-banded the bag closed over the polyps and let this sit for a week in the tank before opening the bag. When I did so, one of the polyps released and vanished into the aquascape, and the other remained firmly attached to the LR. Unfortunately I haven't been able to get a good pic of this ricordea, but it's bright orange very pretty.

Since Reeftopia was supposed to have sent the polyps attached to some rock, they gave me a refund for the 2 polyps I lost. Good customer service, I think. I'm hoping that some day, when I take my aquascape down and transfer it into my monster tank, the polyps will show up, healthy and all.

 

[KingfishJohn]

Little known fact about peppermint shrimp:

They are indeed in the cleaner shrimp family and can and will clean your fish and hands of parasites. The swaying motion displayed by peppermints and skunk cleaners alike is the tell tale sign to see if they are indeed cleaners. This swaying motion tells fish what they are and keeps them from being eaten.

This has been your Random Science Fact of the day.

 

[Dudester]

Thanks, John, for the contribution. Thought I was all alone here on this thread (I'm hearing crickets out there).:sad1:

I did find a photo of the orange Ricordea florida polyp. Please excuse the out of focusness of this image; it's just to indicate the color.

By this time, my sump arrived . As I mentioned, it was custom built to my exact specifications at Trigger Systems in nearby Dallas (www.triggersys.com). They did a great job. The sump's dimensions are 17" x 19" x 13". This, of course, allowed me to move my heater and protein skimmer out of the display tank. I also placed an additional 50W heater in the sump. The flow pattern is as follows:

Raw water drains via the HOB overflow and through a spray bar on the left side of the sump.

This water passes through an acrylic drawer with holes in the bottom, and I can place filter media, carbon, or whatever, in this drawer, as necessary (right now it's empty). Water then passes through the large blue filter sponge to evacuate any detritus or sediment. It then flows into the skimmer chamber where it is filtered by my Remora HOB skimmer, which protrudes off of the back of the sump.

Here's an image of the back right of the cabinet, and you can see the Remora pretty well. Notice how the sump projects out beyond the back of my cabinet. This was intentional, since the skimmer is taller than the bottom shelf of the cabinet. Also, in order to empty the collection cup, I simply remove it from behind the cabinet. This also makes skimmer maintenance relatively easy. The white spa flex plumbing you see is the drainage from the HOB overflow into the rear of the sump.

Here's a view of the rear skimmer compartment, looking from the front.

Here's the foam that my skimmer produces.

Water then passes into the refugium compartment through a slit that's cut into the wall between the skimmer compartment and the refugium compartment. This ensures that some water recirculates in the skimmer compartment, hopefully increasing the efficiency of the skimmer. It also removes most of the bubbles that enter the sump.

Here you can see the front view of the sump/fuge. On the left is the return chamber from the display tank. In the rear (barely shown) is the skimmer compartment, and front/center is the refugium with the substrate, LR and macroalgae. I'll explain the rest later.

Into the refugium, I added 1.5 - 2" of CaribSea Aragamax Select sand (~5 lb) and some LR from John's sump. I beat the crap out of the rocks with a hammer to make it into rubble, thereby increasing its surface area. I also put in a ball of Chaetomorpha macroalgae, along with some grape Caulerpa. The refugium is lit with the 75W 2700K version of melev's refugium bulb (see p.1 of this thread for details), and the bulb burns 24/7. This brings up my next challenge (MISTAKE), and I'll explain this before completing the tour of my sump/fuge.

Since the cabinet shelf was built all the way to the front of the cabinet, and the sump is nearly as tall as the bottom shelf will accomodate, there was no place to hang a light for my refugium macroalgae. There was also no way to access the rest of the sump without removing the top shelf, and that wasn't going to happen often! I had planned on cutting a hole in the shelf and placing the refugium bulb directly over the hole, but it turns out I need the shelf space for my topoff container. I decided to cut off the front third of the entire shelf, which not only provides a place to suspend the light over the fuge, but it also provides at least one hand's worth of access into the remainder of the sump - something that I previously lacked entirely! Here's a view from the front. Notice that I simply hung the fuge light fixture from the handle of my auto-topoff container.

After the refugium compartment, water spills over a baffle and into a small compartment that contains an eggcrate floor. Here I can place frags, filter media, whatever I want. Right now this is where I'm running carbon that I've placed into a filter media bag. From here the water flows beneath another baffle and into the return chamber.

 

[Dudester]

In the return chamber I have my two 50W Jager heaters, my auto-topoff sensor and alarm, and my Mag5 return pump. At 5 feet of head height, this pump moves about 250 gal/hr, which is about 6-8x/hr tank volume turnover. Water returns to the rear of the tank, behind the aquascape, via a 1" OmniFlex nozzle, into which I drilled an antisiphon hole (this is KEY to prevent flooding of my sump!!).

Here's a view of the return side of my sump. Notice the small powerhead in the return chamber as well. I put this in there because the water at the top of the return chamber appeared to be somewhat stagnant, so I put this in there just to keep things moving.

This next image shows the right side (return side) of the sump/fuge, along with the top shelf items so you can get an appreciation of how things are layed out. Three-door cabinet access is a must in this setup!

If you're looking really carefully, you can also notice the reflection of some white shelves containing test kits and other dry goods. I mounted these on the inside of the front and side doors for storage. No wasted space!

Here's a pic of the top right shelf of my cabinet.

The pump is the Mag12 CL pump with its cord coiled nearby. Notice that the other cords that plug into the powerstrip pass upward to the roof of the cabinet. I did this to keep the wires out of my way when removing the topoff container for refilling. The wires are suspended from the "ceiling" using industrial strength velcro, shown here.

Well that's it for now. I've got a day job, you know

 

[techreef]

Dudester,

This is the most complete "starting up" thread I've come across in my time here in RC. These threads answer so many questions for people like me who are still researching and trying to figure out the 800 different factors that go into a stable, healthy, and accessible reef system. Thanks for spending the time documenting your thought processes so thoroughly.

Don't feel like it's just you here. There's probably lots of lurkers following this thread! Keep up the great job.

 

[Liquid Hobby]

I scares me to see the light so close to if not touching a plastic bucket full of water... or is it just the way I'm seeing it?

FWIW... I'm reading along!

T