Step-by-step account of my first reef (with lots of pics)

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Don't worry Dudster, under 15K MH ... that GSP will spread and spread and spread. Keep an eye on it.

I like the overflow idea, I have consider it myself but I have GSP night mares from my 26 ... Ahhhhrrgggg!!! the GSP is everywhere ... you know that old chestnut?

I still have about 10 pounds of LR covered in GSP in my 26 I am going to post in the local club forum. I've kept one piece that is isolated in the front and center of my 75. Under good lighting, anything it touches it will start on and eventually if unchecked by the local competition cover. Zoos seem to do well fending it off, SPS not so much, IME.

47770male___female_orchid_003.jpg


Have a good trip
 
Nice looking zoos and GSP Mike :smokin: . I'll say this, those green zoos spread like wildfire and are quite hard to kill. I have a few surviving members in my tank, luckily relagated to the side with the least amount of flow and light.

Dipping... I would always dip, always. Marc this is for you as well because I KNOW you don't want to have to dose your tank with interceptor.

First off, I work at a LFS so I see the corals when they come in. While many of the large wholesalers try their best to treat their holding tanks before the corals even get to me, pests get through. I've personally seen countless nudibranchs, urchins, flatworms, weird unidentified things, crabs, you name it, I've probably seen one. We dip every coral (since I've been there) in double strength Seachem Reef Dip, but even this doesn't kill all of these pests. I also inspect all the colonies (especially new zooanthid arrivals) for other pests easily seen (sundial snails, etc). But even this won't kill them all and I would hate to unleash a plague into others tanks and push dipping for that very reason.

Another good example comes from my experience. I got frags from a very respectable reefer in the area. I took them home and foolishly did not dip my new SPS additions. Unfortunately the next morning, my tricolor acropora had red bugs crawling all over it. Interceptor was the treatment, and the effect was no more red bugs, or any of my beautiful little acropora crabs. Not worth it IMHO. And on a large system, the huge water changes associated with the treatment would be terrible.

On another note, I've decided to try a new salt, Seachem's Reef Mix. Made by Marineland (Instant Ocean) and fortified with something, I decided to give it a shot. I'll give up two results so far.

1. It mixes cloudy, but cleared in the tank very quickly.
2. Polyp extension was GREAT after the water change. Everything looked very, very happy. Usually I just dose to keep up on Calcium, Alkalinity, and Magnesium.

And now to Mike's lovely little list:

1. Glass!
2. Barebottom (in theory only, we can have a sand bed with more maintenance)
3. Needlewheel
4. Seachem Reef Mix
5. Absolutely
6. Depends, I really want to try it but I also don't want to die of ozone poisoning
7. ZERO

Have a great Christmas Mike
 
I'm back! It was a great holiday, but it's even better to be home. I have plenty of news to report, but I'll address the other contributors first.

melev - Thanks for the banner info, and I agree with MOST of your answers.

Bax and thedude15810 - Good data regarding GSPs. I understand that they're very hardy and spread easily, but if they're all as easy to remove from the rock as the ones I have, I'm not at all worried about them spreading out of control. The GSP that I mounted onto my overflow were literally peeled off of their rock, akin to peeling an orange but much easier. I'll certainly "keep an eye on it" as you suggested, Bax, and I'll try to keep them isolated from the primary rock structure. That's the beauty of the overflow - if they spill over the sides, I should be able to simply cut them back, like pruning a bush. By the way, nice clam Bax! I'm gonna get me some of them soon, right John?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6329157#post6329157 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by thedude15810
Nice looking zoos and GSP Mike :smokin: .
Thought you'd like'em, since you sold them to me :cool:. Did the overflow mount turn out like you thought it would? Interesting comments about that Reef Mix salt, too. I'm looking forward to any updates you have about it's "performance" in your tank.


And now for the update. As you recall, I tried to prepare for my week away, and thought that I had covered all the bases. Well, apparantly I didn't. In another episode of "Something Terrible Went Wrong But I Can't Figure Out What It Was," I have been stung once more. My biggest concern about leaving for a week was that my topoff reservoir would run dry and my salinity would increase while away. I considered placing my Osmolator (topoff) pump into a 20 gallon trashcan filled with RO/DI to prevent this, but I didn't want to take a chance on a pump failure (stuck on) and the possibility of 20g of water ending up on my floor, so instead I topped off my 7 gallon reservoir "to the brim" just before walking out of the house. Well, I arrived home at about 11:30 p.m. last night and went straight to the tank. I immediately noticed copious bubbles along the surface, and they were coming from one of the returns (either the CL or the sump return). It was dark and I should have looked more closely to figure out which one, but instead I went directly to what I felt was going to be the source. All of the livestock appeared well during the split second that I checked. I opened the cabinet door and found the water level in my return compartment BELOW the sump pump intake, with the pump running dry. The topoff reservoir was, of course, empty. My immediate response was to fill the sump to its normal level with RO/DI, since I figured that this represented evaporative water loss. I added about 3.5 gallons of RO/DI water and the return pump ran without a hickup. I thought this was the end of the problem, but unfortunately this was just the beginning.

As I unloaded the car, my wife noticed that the paint was peeling off of the floorboard of the column behind the tank. This could mean only one thing - MOISTURE :eek2:. I turned on the lights and the floor all around the cabinet and into the adjacent room had a fine layer of precipitated salt. The Persian rug was wet. Oh #### (insert multiple explitives here).

I interrogated all of the plumbing, and there were no leaks. The fittings to the Mag pump (for the CL) inside the cabinet were certainly dry, although there was some salt water around the topoff reservoir. After carefully inspecting all of the surfaces around the sump and tank, I've concluded that the spill occurred over the display tank itself, and not from the sump. I gather this due to the thin rim of precipitated salt on the cabinet around the entire circumference of the tank. This must mean that my overflow stopped working for a time, and perhaps the flood was not worse since my topoff reservoir ran dry and the water level dropped below the sump return pump? The only other option I can think of is that maybe the Osmolator pump did get stuck in the "on" position and ran until it was dry, although I doubt this since this wouldn't have deposited salt water onto my cabinet shelf where the topoff reservoir rests. As with the earlier losses of my fish(es), I'm not sure what went wrong and don't know what to do to prevent it from happening again. ANY IDEAS OUT THERE?

One thing I'll do whenever going away is to have the person who feeds the tank check my topoff reservoir, or just have them fill it half way into my trip so that it doesn't run out. Or maybe I'll need a reefer or someone who knows about tanks to take care of it instead of someone who wouldn't recognize a problem if they saw it. I gave her instructions to call me if anything looked unusual or if the temperature deviated from 78-82 degrees, but that's all I had her check. She fed the fish and emptied the skimmer collection cup twice. I spoke with her today and she never saw any water on the floor. She was here at 2 p.m. yesterday and did admit that there was some "churning" near the top back left of the tank (this is where one of the CL returns is), but she didn't notice any air bubbles in the tank. I'm not sure if the minor flooding occurred after she left or between her visits. The wet rug implies a recent event, although the floor was absolutely dry. Hmm, just don't know.

At any rate, realizing that the water level was low due to salt water loss and not evaporation, and realizing that I had just dumped 3.5 gallons of RO/DI into the tank, I checked the salinity right away. 1.0235. I then got about 3 gallons of salt water and added that to the tank, figuring that as the excess water evaporates, the salinity will slowly rise. My topoff will not turn on since the level in the sump is currently above the infrared sensor.

Here are my parameters today:
salinity 1.0245
pH ~8.2
Ca 350
alk 5.4
nitrate 0

So far I think my plan to correct the salinity is working. I'll scrape all of the salt creep back into the tank as well to help inch it up to 1.026. The Ca and alk concern me, although I must say that my tank inhabitants look great! Isn't that the true measure of a healthy system anyway? The corals are all alive, and with polyps expanded. The little acro frag layed down a nice base since I left. My fish is well and ate hardily today. I'm not going to freak out about the numbers. I'll correct them over time. I added B-Ionic today, but I've run out so I'll need to get more.

Interstingly, I saw only 2 flatworms on the glass, so happily they haven't had a population explosion. I'm going to set up my QT (probably tomorrow) in preparation for my flatworm killer, a sixline wrasse. I didn't get my IceCap fan or moonlight over the holiday, nor did I get the pH monitor I wanted. Oh well, I'll just have to work those items into the budget. Although they've dropped down a notch in priority, below the primer and paint that I have to buy in order to repair the flood damage :mad:.
 
Wow! That's enough to make anyone paranoid about automated systems. But at least you had nothing worse than some wet carpet and peeling paint? Since all the critters are OK, I guess it doesn't fall into the category of a MAJOR disaster.

I just ordered an Auto Top Off system for my tank from Floatswitches.net. It has a double switch setup to avoid running the top off reservoir dry. But I also worry about overflowing the main tank, so I'll put an additional safety cutoff switch there if I can figure out a way to mount it.

You said, "<i>I gather this due to the thin rim of precipitated salt on the cabinet around the entire circumference of the tank. <b>This must mean that my overflow stopped working for a time, </b>and perhaps the flood was not worse since my topoff reservoir ran dry and the water level dropped below the sump return pump? </i>" This got me to thinking. I've always been nervous about siphon overflows. It seems to me there are only two ways to stop working, blockage or loss of siphon. It would seem that loss of siphon would be permanent, and not start back up again by itself. Blockage of the overflow I guess could be temporary, but what in your tank could cause that? It would sure help my confidence in siphon overflows to understand this.

BTW, I also ordered my Reef Keeper controller today. I was never known for my patience.

Looking forward to seeing what the other folks have to say. I'll be sending you a PM a little later tonight.

Regards,
Bruce
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6366875#post6366875 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bcoons
I just ordered an Auto Top Off system for my tank from Floatswitches.net. It has a double switch setup to avoid running the top off reservoir dry.
The Osmolator's safety feature is a 10 minute run time. If the pump runs for 10 minutes it's supposed to turn off automatically and, hence, the reservoir should not run dry. I think the "stuck on" comment I made previously was simply paranoia, or better, thinking about all of the possibilities.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6366875#post6366875 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bcoons
Blockage of the overflow I guess could be temporary, but what in your tank could cause that?
Don't know? Maybe all of the snails decided to show me who's boss, and they lined up on top of the overflow, shells akimbo? I know this answer doesn't help you to understand siphon overflows any better, but remember, I'm a noob too!
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6366875#post6366875 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bcoons
BTW, I also ordered my Reef Keeper controller today. I was never known for my patience.
Awesome, let me know how you hook it up. I hope to install mine tomorrow.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6366875#post6366875 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bcoons
Looking forward to seeing what the other folks have to say.
You and me, both!
 
Here's one possible scenario:

A large snail hiked into the overflow and then blocked the drain (U tube) enough to reduce how quickly water can drain to the sump. The tank continues to fill up more and more as the drain is now working at a reduced rate. Water overflows the top lip of the tank. The sump runs lower since the tank is more full than usual. The top off resevoir starts refilling the sump, which continues to pump up to the tank which is overflowing.

Since the Osmolator has a 10min running window, perhaps it came on and off as directed by its programming until the water ran out.

The floor is wet, and the carpet is absorbing moisture.

The snail decides the U tube is too cramped, and goes back into the tank.

Your tank sitter shows up, and never notices the wet carpet because of wearing shoes. The floor dried before that person arrived. The carpet will stay wet for days or weeks if left as is.

To be honest, it could have been worse. Congrats on coming home to a tank full of happy livestock. :)
 
wew!1!

That was a close one!

I would agree it has to be something blocking the overflow, if the ATO stuck on it would have overflowed the sump. I'd keep sctratching my head over that one, you don't want this to happen again. Do you have a lid on your overflow? A piece of acrrylic or egg crate will do.
 
Hi Dudester, I've been lurking for a few weeks now.:D

I had a very similar situation and caught the culprit in the act. Have a look if you like, just the first 5 or 6 posts would give you the jist.

Link
 
melev - Your description seems quite possible, although I honestly don't think one snail could obstruct the drainage substantially enough to diminish flow. I say this because the overflow itself is about 9" wide. The drain inside the overflow box is also circular, and a single snail couldn't block enough of the circumference to make a difference. I've had a pistol shrimp and a clownfish up against that drain before, and there was no impedence to flow. At that time, the cover, or guard, to my overflow was not as secure, but as it is now I don't think anything substantial can get through.

DSCN0106.jpg


Conveniently there's an astrea snail on the side of the overflow box to give you a sense of scale and to see the diameter of the spaces in between the preventative "grid."
To be honest, it could have been worse. Congrats on coming home to a tank full of happy livestock.
I agree 100%!!

Bax - Thanks for the input. As you can see, my overflow is covered. There's also a cover to the drain inside the actual overflow box. My initial thoughts were also that something blocked the overflow, but I just can't see anything in the tank that could block it since there's so much surface area (see photo above).

Here's my current theory. I'm now leaning toward the possibility that the problem occurred as a result of a siphon interruption. Yesterday I noticed that the air line tubing to and from the Aqualifter pump (that controls the siphon) is filling up with algae and is no longer transparent. Maybe a chunk of algae got lodged in the tubing and caused a temporary obstruction. The siphon was interrupted and the sump then drained down to below the return pump while water flowed over and out of the tank. The Osmolator, sensing a low sump water level, then drained the topoff reservoir. This probably occurred the day I got home and after my "house sitter" left. Otherwise I suspect the Mag5 pump wouldn't have fared so well running on air for an extended period of time. Once I added water to the system, this may have been enough of a boost to clear the obstruction in the air line tubing and restore the siphon. I had this "revelation" while driving in to work today and I'll be sure to change the tubing when I get home tonight, as well as regularly when I notice algae growing in it.

Cprowler - Thanks for the link - interesting story and you handled your flood with much more grace than I. I'll be honest - I wasn't so concerned about the consequences of the leak (damage to paint, tiles, rug, etc.), but instead it was the aftermath I'd receive from my "project manager." This certainly didn't win me any points toward getting my monster system, but, as with all things, time heals the wounds :). BTW, I've been lurking in some of your threads as well but haven't had anything to contribute ;).
 
Yesterday was an active tank day, as well. My system water has evaporated sufficiently that my sump water level is down to the sensor for my ATO. I checked the salinity and it's 1.025. Pretty close to where I want it, and since I'm doing a water change this weekend I'll probably leave it alone and raise it with the water change to 1.026.

Speaking of salt water, remember the huge solid block of IO salt in my bucket? Well I chopped it up into smaller rocks, instead of boulders, and made up a gallon to see if it was suitable. In a separate thread I asked Randy Holmes-Farley if he (and others) thought the salt was usable, and RFH said as long as the alk was between 2 and 5, he'd use it. At 1.025, it had an alkalinity of 3.26 and a pH of ~8.4. So the salt from that bucket is currently mixing up a 20 gallon batch. BTW, I cleaned out the Maxijet pump I'm using to mix up my salt water and was amazed at the amount of crud in the impeller. I'll have to begin a regular maintenance schedule to clean these pumps, and certainly the one that's running my skimmer!

I also installed my ReefKeeper :bounce2:. This thing is awesome!! It was a piece of cake to mount and program. I placed the temperature probe in my sump. It had a natural coil and kept resting against one of my heaters, so I zip-tied the probe to a plastic device that comes with the MaxiJet pumps and suction-cupped it against the wall of the sump. I can get a pic of this if the description's not clear.

For those unfamiliar with the ReefKeeper, there are 8 channels that can be programmed for a variety of specific functions. Here's how I programmed mine:

Channel 1: This is empty and will be saved for my moonlight.
Channel 2: Metal halide light, on at 12:30 p.m., off at 10:30 p.m.
Channel 3: Fan, turns on at 81 degrees and off at 80 degrees.
Channels 4 and 5: Both are 50W heaters; the heaters turn off at 79 degrees.
Channel 6: Aqualifter pump.
Channel 7: Mag5 sump return pump.
Channel 8: Mag12 closed loop pump.

This should keep the tank temp between 79-81 degrees. My first impressions of this device are extremely positive. The most obvious, but lower on the importance scale, is that my light ballast electrical cord that previously wrapped around the column behind my tank is now concealed inside the cabinet. I was also able to eliminate the use of my light and fan timers. More importantly, I can see how this will improve the efficiency of my energy usage. Previously my fan ran constantly while the MH were on, and often the heaters were on concurrently with the fan. Now, there is a significant amount of time when both the heaters and the fan are off, and they're no longer working against each other. There's also a feed mode, and I have it programmed so that when I hit the "Feed" button, Channels 6, 7 and 8 turn off for 15 minutes then automatically restart. This makes my life much easier (I love automation) and it will make it more simple for my wife to feed the tank if I'm working late.

Hey Bax, mind telling me (us) the parameters you're using for temperature control with your ReefKeeper? Think mine are OK? And thanks for introducing me to this product, I already love it.


OK, here are a few pics. I was trying to capture the base my acro frag is laying down, but I was having focus problems. I'll have to leave the photography to my wife (she's a pro). Nevertheless, I thought this one was cool - my flash looks like the moon behind the coral.

DSCN0080.jpg


This is a molted shell from one of my peppermint shrimp. I see one of these in the tank every 10 days or so (I have 3 pepps), but I thought this one looked cool.

DSCN0101.jpg


And here's my lonely clownfish. I'm still contemplating whether or not to try to pair her up with another juvenile, or trade her in and get a new pair. I'd hate to give her up, since I feel like I cured her of her lymphocystis and, even though she's probably a killer, I have a soft spot for her as the only fish able to survive in my tank. Any opinions on the matter?

DSCN0094.jpg


DSCN0099.jpg
 
melev - That's what I did last time and look where it got me :(. But I agree with you, and maybe next time it will work out better. I would really hate to get rid of the one I have, it's very healthy and almost, if not already a "she."

Last night I displayed what I feel was the first moment of haste and relative impulsivity with my tank. Instead of setting up my QT for the sixline wrasse I was preparing to buy, I simply went out to the LFS, bought it, acclimated it to my tank and put it in there. No quarantine. I did this for two reasons, none of which justify my not putting it into quarantine. First, I still have flatworms and I didn't want to repeat the FWE treatment unless absolutely necessary. Second, I'm going to be quite busy with work over the next couple weeks and I didn't want the responsibility and workload associated with keeping up another tank. Again, these reasons do not justify my decision, but I did it and I'll live with the potential consequences.

I almost regretted it already. When the fish went into my tank, it was an awesome sight. It immediately dove into the frogspawn and played around with the clown, sort of testing it for compatability. The clownfish is almost twice its size but didn't pick on the wrasse too much; certainly no serious nips. After a few minutes the wrasse became bored with the clownfish and began eating amphipods from my LR! Very cool to watch. Well, soon after lights out, I couldn't find the fish and, with the aid of a flashlight, found it inside one of the holes in the LR, sitting dormant but not breathing hard. I figured this was the beginning of the end, since my previous fish deaths were heralded by this similar behavior. I checked on the fish at 1:30 a.m. and it was in the same hole, still not moving. I checked again - no change - and again at 5:45 after waking up. It was always in that same hole and not moving, but again not breathing hard. I became worried that the fish was stuck (I know this was stupid) and I got out my turkey baster and tried to flush it out of its hole. It wouldn't budge and I left for work feeling certain that my wife would call later in the day with bad news of it's demise. Instead, I just spoke with her and the wrasse is out and about, picking at the LR for more pods! Is this normal behavior for a new fish to camp out at night in a hole? I've definitely learned my lesson NOT to terrorize a poor frightened fish with a water gun.

Recall that the mortality for fish in my tank is 75% at 3 days (3/4 fish have died in that time period) so I'm not out of the woods yet, but I really hope I'm finished with this "new tank syndrome" and that I can slowly get up to the 4 or 5 fish that I eventually want to keep. I'm already a big fan of this sixline and hope it drops my mortality to 60% by surviving (fingers crossed).
 
Six Line Wrasses purportedly cocoon themselves at night when they sleep in the rockwork, and then break out each day to swim the tank. I've never seen this personally. Your fish sounds fine and I'd leave it alone while it rests at night.

If you tend to lose fish within 3 days of being added to the tank, there may be a flaw in the way you acclimate new livestock.
 
I'd say that's normal for a small wrasse, my orchid dotty back which are very active LR hunters all day hole up at night.

I agree with melve too about the clown. With my first two clowns, the larger one would have nothing to do with the smaller one. It was a while before I got the third one, I got one about half the size of the remaing original clown. They paired up instantly.

Any way, even if you get away with this wrasse not being Qt'd, QT all of your fish here on out... OK?

And I'll have to write down how I have my ReefKeeper set. I still have some non-ReefKeeper issues to resolve before it's set up as I want. But I really like it, excellent timing and control for the money.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6387497#post6387497 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Dudester

Recall that the mortality for fish in my tank is 75% at 3 days (3/4 fish have died in that time period) so I'm not out of the woods yet, but I really hope I'm finished with this "new tank syndrome" and that I can slowly get up to the 4 or 5 fish that I eventually want to keep. I'm already a big fan of this sixline and hope it drops my mortality to 60% by surviving (fingers crossed). [/B]

If it makes you feel any better, my record is not so hot either. My tank has been up for a little over two months and 4 of the 5 fish I put in there have died. I think the Condylactus anemone got two of them (he self destructed in the skimer powerhead the other day, so he's gone too). One Royal Gramma never did well after making the trip from Austin to home, didn't acclimate well, and died the next morning. A clownfish that had been doing OK for almost the whole two months just died suddenly for no apparent reason two weeks ago. The only survivor is a green chromis that has been in the tank from day one. He is fine. One of my camel shrimp is also gone. I think he got attacked by either the other camel shrimp or the hermit crabs right after molting. So I am getting pretty darn discouraged also. I've kept FW fish for three years without significant mortality. I've read and studied and keep my water in good shape. It really bugs me that I keep losing these critters.

On a more positive note, today I received my Auto Top Off (ATO) unit and some other parts from floatswitches.net. Any my Reef Keeper is due in on Tuesday. So I'll get to play around with it and also set up an ATO system on the tank.

I've been down with an allergy/cough all week, so hopefully I'll get something done next week while I'm still off from work. That reef Keeper sounds like quite the deal.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6379484#post6379484 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Dudester
Cprowler - Thanks for the link - interesting story and you handled your flood with much more grace than I. I'll be honest - I wasn't so concerned about the consequences of the leak (damage to paint, tiles, rug, etc.), but instead it was the aftermath I'd receive from my "project manager." This certainly didn't win me any points toward getting my monster system, but, as with all things, time heals the wounds :). BTW, I've been lurking in some of your threads as well but haven't had anything to contribute ;).

I don't know about grace. :spin2:

My project manager lost it, that time and the other two times I had minor spills. :D I said that's why I need a drilled RR tank.:) But she's happy she got new flooring in the whole house.

I hope everything works out for you.
 
melev - I guess I'm fortunate to be able to see this "cocooning" behavior, because it happened again last night. I observed the tank as the lights went out. Immediately the wrasse swam into a hole and became immotile. This morning it was out and again picking at the rocks. Although now it has a small wound - I think my clownfish bit out a chunk of the tail, but this will grow back and the wrasse looks like it couldn't care less.

Regarding my fish mortality and its relationship to acclimation, I would assume (possibly incorrectly?) that if the fish were acclimated improperly, they'd die within the first 12-24 hours, not after 3 days? As far as my acclimation procedure, here's what I do, and feel free to critique.

I float the bag from the LFS in my tank for about 20 minutes to equalize the temperature. I then pour the fish and some bag water into a plastic container that I can hang over the lip of the tank and into the tank, so the temp remains stable. For this purpose I use one of those 2-sided plastic containers from HD that's used for paint. It's really convenient since I use the second compartment (hanging outside the tank) to hold my turkey baster. I then add one baster-full of tank water into the fishes compartment about every 5 minutes or so until the container is nearly full. At that point I pour out half of the water, then repeat the process again until full. The water is discarded through a net, and the fish is placed into the tank. The entire process takes about 1 and 1/2 hours, and I agitate the water regularly for aeration. The fish enter the tank vigorous and without distress. Does this seem OK? After reading this, my own criticisms (or opportunities for improvement) would be:

1. Maybe I should test the salinity and/or pH in both my tank and the acclimation water to ensure that they're equal or at least close, or is this overkill? I guess it would be good to do this once to prove that I'm equalizing the parameters.

2. Maybe I should put an airstone in the acclimation container?


Bax - Interesting about the small wrasses "holing up" at night. I had never read that before and was stunned when I saw mine in that hole, not moving. One of my biggest fears was that my emerald crab would happen upon it and decide to go for an easy meal; this still worries me, but I would hope that the fish would swim away if the crab got too close.

If my wrasse lives beyond the dreaded 3-day mark, and remains healthy over the next month, I think I'll go ahead and get another juvenile true perc. I want to do this before my current clownfish gets too old (she's about 6-7 months old now, as best as I can tell). Of course, I'll quarantine the new arrival ;).

No hurry on your ReefKeeper settings, just interested to hear it. I'm quite happy with my current settings. The fan and heaters no longer fight one another, and my evaporative losses are significantly less.

It doesn't matter for the purposes of this thread, but due to my own anal retentiveness I must make a correction. Channel 7 on my ReefKeeper is for the Mag12 CL pump, and Channel 8 is for the Mag5 sump return pump. I will now return to the regularly scheduled thread.

Bruce - John and I were talking with the other experienced reef guy at our preferred LFS, and after describing my entire setup to him, and the order in which I stocked it, he felt that I was losing fish to the "New Tank Syndrome." I haven't searched about this, but basically it's an issue of system immaturity. In this thread "moderated" by Eric Borneman, which I've referred to previously, there is a nice description of the evolution of a new tank. Apparantly there are materials, toxins, chemicals, etc., for which we do not test, that are released into the water column by our corals and other organisms in our tanks. We fictitiously believe we have excellent water quality that can accomodate fish as soon as our salinity, pH, and nitrates test well. We then expose these fish to toxins that they cannot withstand, and they die "mysteriously" in our tanks. True, many people get away with this, but I think this is why my fish were dying and perhaps this is happening to you as well. If my wrasse dies within the next few days, I've resolved myself to waiting a full 3 months, so that my tank is 6 months old, before getting another fish. Don't be discouraged, but instead just slow down and enjoy what you have now. Take some more time to observe the feather dusters that are likely showing up in crevases where you haven't looked before. Check out the worm tunnels in your sand, and look at the pods crawling around your rocks. I'm saying this to you, and to me, with the hopes of convincing myself to do the same if my wrasse doesn't make it.

Keep us informed about your ATO system, and definitely post your ReefKeeper settings once you hook it up. Hope you're feeling better. Half of Austin is sick now, too.

Cprowler - If my spills result in a new floor, that'll spell the end of this hobby for me, that's for sure. It'll probably be a couple of years before I get another tank, so my goal from here on out will be to minimize damage!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6391599#post6391599 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Dudester
1. Maybe I should test the salinity and/or pH in both my tank and the acclimation water to ensure that they're equal or at least close, or is this overkill? I guess it would be good to do this once to prove that I'm equalizing the parameters.

I go through almost exactly the same acclimation process as you describe, also using a hang-on-tank container and using a turkey baster to slowly change the water over a period of an hour or so.

On salinity, when I brought home my last fish from the LFS I tested the bag water for both salinity and pH before starting the process. Our local little LFS stated that they keep their tanks at 1.025 and 8.2. When I tested the water in the bag with my refractometer it read 1.033. I also now have a Pinpoint electronic salinity monitor and it read 1.034 (it seems to consistently read .001 above the refractometer.)

My measured pH of the bag water was 7.6. Now, these reading of the bag water were after a 30 minute drive home from the LFS, so that probably may make a diference, but I don't know how much.

Anyway, when I do the acclimation, I test the chamber water for salinity as I go thru the process, and make sure I bring it down to match the tank water. (My tank runs 1.024 and 8.2)

Mike, when I get down your way I'll bring the Pinpoint salinity monitor. It would be interesting to see how it compares against your refractometer. I'll also bring a clamp on ammeter if you want to measure any specific or total power loads. It's pretty handy to know exactly what your loads are when designing a back up power system.

Bruce
 
During acclimation, the fish can be subjected to oxygen depravation and excessive heat as well.

When floating the bag in your tank, make sure the lights don't cook the air in the bag. Clamp the bag to the edge of the tank or on something nearby like some wiring. Clothespins work great.

10 minutes later, open the bag so fresh air goes in. Add a small amount of water. I don't measure it, but it is probably 1/2 to 3/4 of a cup. Do this every five minutes. I try to introduce fish within 45 minutes of floating, to avoid lack of oxygen.

If you like, pour your creature & water through a net set on a bucket. That way you'll place only the fish in the tank and virtually no LFS water. A few days ago, I bought a new copperband. I decided to reach in the bag and take him out with my hand instead of the chance of letting him get stuck in the net. He's doing quite well in quarantine and eating some mysis food when I add it to the tank. I spoiled him today with some baby brine shrimp, just to assure he's getting enough food while he waits to go in the reef.

Plus, I'm able to observe him well as he hasn't figured out a place to hide due to the way the rocks are placed in that tank. Each time I see him eat, I know that he's getting used to the food I offer. Later, when he's in the reef, he'll recognize the same food and not miss his meal.
 
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