Step-by-step account of my first reef (with lots of pics)

[bcoons]

Mike - Saw and replied to melev's post before I saw yours. That chemistry calculator site you provided is pretty interesting. Doing a quick calculation using the B-Ionic part 2 (CA) it shows I should dose 112 mL. Wow! That's quite a bit It says to add in several doses. So once it gets to where it needs to be then I experiment to find the correct daily dose to hold the level? OK, I think I'm getting it. Man, it's been a lot of years, (like about 40) since college chemistry. I guess I better order another Calcium testing kit.

With the pH monitor on the RK2 I can finally watch my pH closely. When I got it set up about noon today my tank pH read 8.2, right where the test kit always said it was. Tonight, just at lights out it was 8.35. I have the 'fuge light on daytime now, and off at night. So it will be interesting to see what the pH is tomorrow morning before lights on. I'll watch that for a few days then try a night cycle on the 'fuge light and see what kind of a difference it makes. Boy, I like measuring gadgets. Now I'm eyeing that Pinpoint calcium monitor. A man can't have too many meters.

OK, I'll try your method on the 5 gal top tomorrow morning. If it doesn't work I'm gonna get some det cord.......:blown:

 

[Dudester]

Bruce - The calcium in fresh IO should be closer to the 345 than the 285 that you're seeing. I don't know what test kit you're using, but my Salifert kit has a similar titration, from red to purple to blue. The correct calcium is read when the solution is blue, not purple. Make sure you're doing the test in adequate light, and place the test vial on a piece of white paper to help you discern the correct color.

You can add a lot more B-Ionic than that. I currently add 45ml of each solution (about 1 ml/gallon of system water) to my tank daily, and I still have to boost up my calcium periodically with Kent Turbo Calcium. You're not going to hurt anything by using more than 5 ml/day (except your wallet :lol: ). I asked a similar question to Randy Holmes-Farley, and he mentioned that 1 ml of B-Ionic per gallon of system water is not uncommon, especially in a tank with high calcium/alk demands. Marc made a good point about raising your calcium level slowly, although I've done it rapidly on a few occasions without any detrimental effects. The calculator I referred you to lists a caveat to add 1/3 to 1/2 of the required amount of calcium supplement, test the next day, then repeat. This certainly seems like a safe approach.

You should try not to change your pH by more than 0.2 at any given time. B-Ionic will certainly raise your pH, which is why I add mine in the early morning when my pH is at its lowest.

 

[melev]

You want to run your refugium lighting at night, and off all day. That way the plants will produce oxygen and raise the pH while the display tank's pH drops - it is a small buffer to help keep them a little more stable.

When adding the Calcium part of B-Ionic (well, actually either part), you need to add it slowly in an area of high flow. Whatever number you dose, it should be added slowly over 20 seconds or so, not just dumped in. If you see it turn to flakes, you added it too quickly and wasted the dose. B-Ionic should be added early in the morning when the pH is at its lowest. The Alkalinity part will raise the pH as soon as you add it.

What test kit are you using to measure Alk & Ca?

 

[bcoons]

OK, thanks, guys. I think I'm getting it. I'll start adding larger doses tomorrow after the water change. I'll pay closer attention to trying to get the color to blue rather than purple. Looks like I just need to spend more time playing with my tank. At least it keeps me out of the bars at night. (Oh, wait..... there are no bars here. It's a dry town!)

 

[bcoons]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6987408#post6987408 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
What test kit are you using to measure Alk & Ca?

The calcuim test is a "SeaTest" kit by Aquarium Systems (same guys that make IO?) and the Alk test is in my master test kit by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, Inc.

Are there better?

 

[Dudester]

OK, so let's talk about my tank for a little while .

About a week ago I noticed that my skimmate production suddenly decreased to about 1/2 the usual volume. I didn't think much of it since I've been feeding much less and I assumed less food = less waste = less nutrients = less skimmate. Well today the MaxiJet that runs the skimmer was completely off! I removed the powerhead and found that the impeller was not revolving at all due to deposits inside the unit. I tried to scrape them off but was not successful. Fortunately I have been planning to clean all of my pumps and last weekend I bought a plastic container and some chemical-proof gloves. I already had a bunch of muriatic acid (for my pool), and I decided to give the MaxiJet a good acid wash. Since I already removed the powerhead, I just went ahead and took the skimmer off of my sump and cleaned it out with acid as well. I hooked the MaxiJet up to the skimmer and submerged it in a diluted solution of muriatic acid out in the driveway. I let it run for about 30 minutes, and when I removed it the pump was as clean as the day I bought it. Simply amazing! I hooked it up to my tank (after a thorough tapwater rinse) and it's skimming like mad, once again. I took a picture of the skimmer running in the acid solution but I've gotta go pack since I'm leaving town tomorrow. I'm so glad that this occurred today instead of tomorrow. Although the tank would probably be OK without skimming for 5 days, I'm sure it's better off with the skimmer functioning properly. I guess the FWE treatment is going to have to wait 'til I get back. So have fun, little beasties, because next weekend will be rather unpleasant for you (I truly must be ill, as I am writing to my flatworms :crazy1: ).

Bruce - I like Salifert test kits.

p.s. it always makes me happy to see Melev repeat the advice that I've given - it sorta validates me

 

[Dudester]

Hey Marc , speaking of MaxiJet mods, do you think my Remora skimmer would function better if I modified the powerhead like you describe?

 

[bcoons]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6987520#post6987520 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Dudester
OK, so let's talk about my tank for a little while .

So have fun, little beasties, because next weekend will be rather unpleasant for you (I truly must be ill, as I am writing to my flatworms :crazy1: ).

Who said this was an insane hobby?

Just as a data point, I cleaned the MJ 1200 that drives my CPR BP2R skimmer today. First time in about two months. It was still vey clean inside, with almost no deposits of anything. This is probably because I don't have a lot of calcium and stuff in my tank. Once I start heavy dosing to get the calcium levels up for the corals I'll probably have deposits like you do. I just re-assembled the pump, ran it in a vinegar solution for an hour or so, then put it back on the skimmer.

Have a good trip.

 

[melev]

Talk about your tank?! Who's thread is this anyways? :lol:

I'll answer that: <b>Ours!</b>



















Okay, okay... it's yours for now.

Glad you figured out what was going on with your skimmer. I had something occur with my Euroreef a while back, where the water level dropped a good 4" in the reaction chamber. I kept trying to adjust the gate valve to fix the situation, but eventually I figured out that an astrea had wandered into the input of one of the Sedra pumps and created the perfect obstruction.

At least now I know what to look for if the skimmer acts strangely.

 

[Dudester]

Yep, glad I cleared that up. Actually, the skimmer's still not putting out as much as it used to, but it's working and clean, I know that for sure.

Marc, about that MJ pump modification, do you think it would improve my skimmer's performance? Thanks, and I'm off for the next several days. If you say "yes," it'll have to wait until I get back. Just like the assassination of my flatworms!!

 

[melev]

I doubt it. You could try and let me know, but I have a feeling it won't make much difference due to the plumbing and injector in the Remora.

 

[Dudester]

Thanks, Marc, I forgot about the importance of the injector. I might try it anyway. Since the Remora works better with a higher flow powerhead, and your modification increases flow, it might just work!

bad news
Well shoot! It seems like every time I leave town, something bad happens. The day after I left, I got a call from my wife. Dorothy (my sixline wrasse) was nowhere to be found, not even after she fed the tank. This is highly unusual, as the fish has a voracious appetite. She looked throughout the tank with a flashlight, and even in the overflow box and sump, and there was no sign of her. I got home yesterday and, indeed, there is no trace of her. I presume that she died and was consumed by my hungry invertebrates, as they are being offered much less food in my attempts to control bryopsis. I am really bummed, as this was a great fish to watch ... always swimming very actively throughout every nook and cranny of my tank. I will miss this fish a great deal and will definitely replace it with another sixline wrasse. But once again, I have a dead fish without an explanation. The last time I saw her she appeared very healthy and had no lesions. I don't think she starved to death, as there has always been a surplus of flatworms to eat if she so chose. All other tank inhabitants are healthy.

good news
My new corals have assumed some coloration over the sites of previous STN, and they've just begun to lay down a small base. Their polyps are more extended than ever. I think they've adjusted well and are happy in their new home.

 

[Bax]

Good news about the corals ... sorry about your wrasse.

Do you think it carpet surfed? ... Check the nooks and cranies outside the tank too.

 

[Dudester]

Definitely didn't carpet surf. Impossible, since my floor is all tile . Thanks, you guys are great. I'm here all week. (how do you spell "badump bump"). But seriously though, no signs of her on the floor behind or beneath the cabinet. She's a goner for sure. I think I'll go ahead and get another one along with a lawnmower blenny. It's OK to place them both in the same QT at the same time, and add them to my tank simultaneously, right?

The chaeto in my refugium really likes my new light. The fuge is almost completely full now. I'm a little unclear about pruning chaeto and the benefits of doing so. As I understand it, the chaeto in our fuge serves many functions, one of which is to consume nutrients so that nuissance alge becomes malnourished, so to speak. For that reason, I would assume that we would want to keep our refugia literally packed with as much chaeto as possible. More chaeto = more consumption of nutrients. On the other hand, is it possible that once the refugium is full, the chaeto becomes "lazy" and comparatively inactive metabolically? When we remove some of the chaeto, does the remaining portion become stimulated metabolically to proliferate and, therefore, the smaller quantity of macro actually consumes more nutrients than if it were packed in?

 

[melev]

Yes, that is correct - to both questions.

When you prune the cheato, tug it apart slightly as this too will encourage new growth.

 

[bcoons]

Sorry to hear about your wrasse. I think I actually saw that fish at AA just before you bought it. I really hate it when they just vanish like that. It's almost as bad as when they just die for NAR. I must say my tank's survivability rate for fish is not too good.

And,...... I want to let you know that you (and Marc) were both absolutely right about my pH varying from day to night. Now that I have the pH probe with the RK2 I've been watching it closely. When I had the 'fuge light on the day cycle pH was about 8.45 at main lights out in the evening and 8.10 in the morning. I now have the 'fuge light on at night, and pH is pretty consistent at about 8.35 at night and 8.17 in the morning. I could never see those differences in the color using the chemical pH test. So, I'm leaving the 'fuge light on at night and dosing my B-Ionic in the morning. The dosing now has my calcium up to 380ppm at last test, so I think you've gotten me on the right track.

On the cheato, I've had to split mine in the 'fuge and throw the half away about four times now. The stuff is growing very fast under the little Coralife 18W PC light fixture. It has been filling the little AC 500 'fuge every 3 weeks or so. And I guess it must be doing its job. I used to read 10-20 ppm on nitrates before I got the 'fuge set up. My last two nitrate tests have been zero nitrates. I love it when something works as predicted.

OK, here is my question of the day to you reef gurus. There were lot's of neat critters and things on the rock that I got with the mushroom corals at AA. Snails, feather dusters, some different kinds of algae (that the hermit crabs like) and some little balloon like things. I've got a pic of them, so I'll see if I can link to it on my son's server. (It's too high a res pic to fit in my RC gallery.) What are the little balloon like things at the arrows?


Don't tell me that they're something bad!

Bruce

 

[melev]

It is a type of bi-valve, called a Sea Squirt I believe. Steve Tyree did a presentation on them about 4 years ago. They are filter feeders, and nice to have around.

 

[bcoons]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7034586#post7034586 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
It is a type of bi-valve, called a Sea Squirt I believe. Steve Tyree did a presentation on them about 4 years ago. They are filter feeders, and nice to have around.

Whew! I was all steeled to find out they were some horrible pest that would wipe out my tank. That's the good thing about being a pessimist. When something normal happens, it's really good!

 

[Dudester]

melev - Thanks, I'll get rid of half of my chaeto tomorrow and pull the rest apart. I'd give my "throw away" macro to someone, but I'd hate to give them flatworms.

Bruce - Cool pic, and glad they're not deleterious to your up and coming reef! Of course I'm gonna need to get some of those shrooms from you .


During my 3rd consecutive hour of tearing out bryopsis today, I got to thinking ... if pruning chaeto results in it's increased growth response, is this then also true of bryopsis? Have I been spending hour after hour, day after day, week after week (I know, you get the idea) ripping this crap out of my tank, only to be adding fuel to the fire this whole time? As mentioned, every time I pull it out, a little is released into the tank and I get a new outcropping somewhere else. What began as a 20 minute exercise has evolved into a half-day event :mad2: . Someone please tell me I'm doing the right thing!

 

[melev]

Plucking it out should be done so as not to release any into the system. Rinse your fingers in a bowl of water after every pinch. Use a turkey baster to blast the bryopsis patches so that detritus is flushed out, as that is the fuel that makes that stuff grow. It's a very difficult algae to get rid of, but it can be done. I did it last year.