Step-by-Step: Drilling Holes in Your Glass Tank for Bulkheads
- Thread starter JustOneMoreTank
- Start date
I put the two pieces of the calfo together prior to attaching it to the tank. I rested one piece along a wall, and the other on the floor. after the silicone dried, then I rested the completed overflow on the 2x4's in the tank and rested it right up against the back of the tank. I first siliconed the inside, and once that dried, I removed the wood and siliconed the underside.
like everything else in this hobby, patience required.
GoldStripe
New member
Just to give a different method, I siliconed the shelf or horizantal piece in the tank and let it dry. I used 2x6's with the bottom corner notched out to keep it off the silicone on the bottom of the tank. I set a piece of plywood across the tops of the 2x6's and then shimmed to get it perfectly level. Then I cut blocks of wood to act as standoffs and to keep it square for the vertical piece. I siliconed from the inside only but I made sure that got on the edge of the glass making contact with the tank. Whichever way you like will work fine. There's more than one way to skin a cat but like Dan said it takes some patience cause silicone is tough to work with.
One thing I found was that silicone is much easier to work with if you use the small tubes of silicone that you squeeze out with your hand (like toothpaste). I did the inside of my overflow with the gun/trigger tubes of silicone, and it was much more difficult and came out messier. I did the underside and outer edge of the overflow with the tubes and it was much easier and came out very neat. When I go home today I'll take a picture to show you the difference.
Unfortunately, the tubes of silicone cost about the same as the larger tubes for the guns, but it contains about 1/4 the amount of silicone. Overall, it would end up more expensive, but the end result is a cleaner look, which IMO is worth it.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7403062#post7403062 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tcottle
Thanks - because of this thread I have sucessfully drilled my first tank. It was scary how easy it was!
nice job. one thing you may want to consider is either putting unions on each of the downpipes coming from the bulkheads, or one union on the downpipe from the tee junction. THis would be helpful for easier removal of your pipes in case you need to move the tank for maintenance or some other reason.
GoldStripe
New member
I agree, and did put them on mine 
when i siliconed my overflows I put the tank on its side, did the bottom on first. I held it in place for a while and checked it visually. let it set for a little while and came back to make any adjustments.
for the vertical piece, which is now horizontal as the tank is on its side, i used several decks of cards to stand it up to the right height and applied silicone.
mine arent completely at right angles but for the most part quite square.
for the vertical piece, which is now horizontal as the tank is on its side, i used several decks of cards to stand it up to the right height and applied silicone.
mine arent completely at right angles but for the most part quite square.
Grace's Dad
New member
In case BallaBooyeah doesn't get the pm. What size bit did you go with for the 2" bulkhead?
My drill caught right at the end of drilling for a 1" bulkhead. The hole has a small crack and I'm going to try and save it by drilling for a 2" bulkhead.
The first two holes came out perfect though.
My drill caught right at the end of drilling for a 1" bulkhead. The hole has a small crack and I'm going to try and save it by drilling for a 2" bulkhead.
The first two holes came out perfect though.
swedish steel
Member
I used an 85mm hole saw, but check the hole diameter required for the bulkhead you intend to use before ordering the hole saw and before drilling.
BallaBooyeaH
Premium Member
Graces dad,
I used a 65mm but this will notfit US 2" bulkheads.
I suggest you get in touch with the suppliers first who have the bulk head to see what the OD is. If there is a crack - I would go for the biggest so it is all covered up.
When drilling - make sure there is support under the glass it it does not happen again.
Good luck.
I used a 65mm but this will notfit US 2" bulkheads.
I suggest you get in touch with the suppliers first who have the bulk head to see what the OD is. If there is a crack - I would go for the biggest so it is all covered up.
When drilling - make sure there is support under the glass it it does not happen again.
Good luck.
Grace's Dad
New member
My problem is no longer drilling for a bulkhead, but drilling to cut out the crack. I driled with a 45mm bit for 1" bulkhead (about a 2"hole)and the crack extends about 1/4" to 1/2" past the bulkhead. I am thinking/hoping that a 3 1/4" hole will cut it out. I will also be breaking the diameter of hole to edge of tank rule.
BallaBooyeaH
Premium Member
Dosent look to bad. I would be carefull as not to let the crack get bigger when you start drilling the hole. Make sure there is only the weight of the drill so the crack does not get any bigger.
I have gone close to the edge but I think that will not be a problem. well have a go anyway and let us know how you go. I'd say a 85 mm hole will be needed. just use the existing edge as the start point and eat up that crack with the rest of the drill bit.
Good luck.
I have gone close to the edge but I think that will not be a problem. well have a go anyway and let us know how you go. I'd say a 85 mm hole will be needed. just use the existing edge as the start point and eat up that crack with the rest of the drill bit.
Good luck.
Grace's Dad
New member
That was my plan. Trying to figure out how I will get my angled ridge started. I am afraid that once the drilling starts that some vibrations may cause the crack to spread.
aurorahokie
Premium Member
I did not use a guide and I have a few scuff marks, but nothing noticeable after installing the bulkheads. The 45mm is for 1" bulkheads.
Chip
Thanks for all the advice from this thread. Because of it I was able to successfully drill two 1 3/4" holes in the back panel of my 65 gallon tank. Got my hole saw from the Hong Kong seller on Ebay like many of you have. I didn't even do the putty or cup around the hole. Just took the tank out to the driveway and got the neighbor to keep the saw flooded with water. Took me about a minute and a half for each hole.
Thanks again for all the encouragment and help from all the posts.
Les
Thanks again for all the encouragment and help from all the posts.
Les
Well, The deed is done and it looks GREAT!
185 gallon Bowfront now has ten holes in the back.
It is really amazing how easy it was.
Ordered two 60 mm and four 45 mm saws from Lau on ebay. They got here in four days with regular shipping ! Now THAT rocks!
I drilled two 60mm holes for the return that will by joined into one pipe feeding the Dart pump and drilled eight 45mm holes for the OceansMotion 8-way return. I got all eight holes out of a single bit! Each of the 60mm holes took about 20 minutes with the 45mm holes averaging less than ten minutes. Metal ducting tape on the back prevented all but a little chipping when the saw cut through.
Bulkheads are all installed waiting for the OM eight way.
Thanks to all participants on the thread for your experiences and advice
185 gallon Bowfront now has ten holes in the back.
It is really amazing how easy it was.
Ordered two 60 mm and four 45 mm saws from Lau on ebay. They got here in four days with regular shipping ! Now THAT rocks!
I drilled two 60mm holes for the return that will by joined into one pipe feeding the Dart pump and drilled eight 45mm holes for the OceansMotion 8-way return. I got all eight holes out of a single bit! Each of the 60mm holes took about 20 minutes with the 45mm holes averaging less than ten minutes. Metal ducting tape on the back prevented all but a little chipping when the saw cut through.
Bulkheads are all installed waiting for the OM eight way.
Thanks to all participants on the thread for your experiences and advice
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