Step-by-Step: Drilling Holes in Your Glass Tank for Bulkheads

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7576165#post7576165 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mnmnm1951
Well, The deed is done and it looks GREAT!
185 gallon Bowfront now has ten holes in the back.
It is really amazing how easy it was.

Ordered two 60 mm and four 45 mm saws from Lau on ebay. They got here in four days with regular shipping ! Now THAT rocks!

I drilled two 60mm holes for the return that will by joined into one pipe feeding the Dart pump and drilled eight 45mm holes for the OceansMotion 8-way return. I got all eight holes out of a single bit! Each of the 60mm holes took about 20 minutes with the 45mm holes averaging less than ten minutes. Metal ducting tape on the back prevented all but a little chipping when the saw cut through.

Bulkheads are all installed waiting for the OM eight way.

Thanks to all participants on the thread for your experiences and advice :D

That sure was a lot of drilling! Congrats. :) Now the difficult part... plumbing all of those lines for the CL. Good luck and let us all see how it turns out. We want pictures! :)
 
I did a few holes also using all the advice I got on this thread. Thank you.

for my water flow while drilling I used a five gallon bucket full of water with a air line siphoning out the water on to the bit. It helped to have a lead holding down the line.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=5047257#post5047257 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JustOneMoreTank
Ahhh... forgot this little list:
Diamond Hole Saw size 60mm = 1.5 inch Bulkhead

looking to put in the 1.5" bulkhead,,i got the 60mm bit from Lau..
however, the standard 1.5 bulkhead looks like it is requiring a
2 3/8" hole size.
the 60mm bit looks like it is roughly 1/32 small.

anyone able to fit a standard bhead in the 60mm hole without needing to grind it out more?
 
Triggerfish - sorry to read about your bulkhead hole size problem. My 1 1/2 inch bulkheads are schedule 80 requiring a 2 9/16 " hole, which is 65.0875 MM. It is important to do the math before ordering the hole saws and drilling. If you grind your hole out to fit the bulkhead, be sure to wear proper respiratory protection as that is powdered glass that you do not want in your lungs. Good luck.
 
yes,,i was assuming it would have been pretty standard..
i think i may have found one that looks like it is measuring 2 5/16
which may just fit.
thx for the tip.
 
I am going to try this out just bought a 48mm for a 1" schedule 80 bulkhead. What can I use to debur the hole after drilling to prevent finger from getting cut. Any help would be appreciated.
 
I had to do an "EMERGENCY" drill job late last night.
75 in livingroom sprung a leak. 75 WAS my cichlid show tank, and was going to be my reef. The show cichlid tank was switching to a 90 in my office. 90 needed to be drilled for overflow to a sump.
No huge rush in my mind, I'm waiting my diy rocks to cure before startup.
Found the leak about midnight, dropped water level about 60 %, removed some rocks, off to the garage to drill the 90 and silicone the internal overflow box in place.
Build the stand for the office, straight 2X framing, entire stand is hidden behind credenza.
move substrate, fish canister filter and some water. Brought level to 3-4 inches from bottom of fresh silicone.
In bed by 3:30
I am so glad I had the drill bit, the glass and the plan ready, if I stocked that tank undrilled, it never would have been done.
Tomorrow I'll worry about the 75 and raise the water to the overflow inthe 90.
 
mbunaman - you shouldn't have to worry about cutting your finger on the hole edge. I worked for Boeing for three years and, as you are probably aware, was concerned about possible stress cracks developing at the chipped areas around the hole edges. Therefore, I bought a Dremel Tool with a flexible wand, used a respirator, and made all these areas smooth on 24 holes in my two tanks. This may have been overkill, but this was the time to do it so I wouldn't have to wish I had later. HTH
 
I talked to a MarineDepot Customer Care Rep yesterday and im looking for a more definate answer to my question..

So, im planning on going with 1 1/2" Bulkheads, which require a 2 5/8 hole which converts to 66.67500, however, the closest bit that Lau has is a 70mm which comes out to be a sliver more then 2 3/4", now, my question is, will that hole be too big? All the Marinedepot rep could tell me is tha tI want as much of the flange on glass as possible but I didnt get a real yes or no out of him, any opinions guys and girls?

The Marinedepot rep could only reccomend that I use a smaller bit and use a dremel to ream the hole out....Something about a dremel on glass like that gives me the willies..
 
LazyD, I just drilled 4 holes for 1.5" bulkheads with a bit from Lau. The bit size is 60mm which translates to roughly 2 3/8". I bought these bulkheads which call for the hole to be 2 3/8". After they were drilled the bulkheads fit perfect and no leaks. HTH
 
I like the looks of the BHs that GoldStripe linked to. Very Heavy duty! If you click on the link titled "Click here for more pics" on the Aquatic Eco page look at measurement letter "D" and it does say 2 3/8 inch.
 
Ohh and by the way GoldStripe we really need to do something with that Avatar of yours! Ugh!
Go Gators!
gh_bg.gif
 
Man, I thought I could get away from gators on here!! There everywhere, lol. By the way, Weims are my absolute favorite dog in the world!!
 
Can't wait for Gator football season! He is a good dog. Very obedient and wants to please you. Excellent retrieving and working dog. Pretty good on point as well.
I almost got a Vizsla instead of my little Weimy but he was ready to take home and the Vizslas were not old enough to be given away at the time. Very glad I got him. :)
 
ybenormal - there are different shaped ones that are green and for ceramic, stone, glass and other hard or non-ferrous materials. The Dremel part number is 84922 and is conical in shape. If you do not have many holes, one should be enough. I had to use two.
 
JustOneMoreTank, are you a season ticket holder? This will be my 8th or 9th year making the drives over to Tally every weekend for games.

Sorry to hijack the thread by the way!
 
Well my fiasco is over. nearly...
I did NOT do the greatest job on my overflow box. (sleep deprived and a little freaked out at the time)
I raised water level to 3/4 up the box, and in 45 minutes the level in the box, was 1/4" lower than tank level. I never went over the top with water.
I hope that that is a small enough weep that I don't have to redo it. This is a FW tank, with a 15 for a sump. Filter floss, bio media, heater & return pump.
Thoughts? Thanks!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7655417#post7655417 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BigSkyBart
I had to do an "EMERGENCY" drill job late last night.
75 in livingroom sprung a leak. 75 WAS my cichlid show tank, and was going to be my reef. The show cichlid tank was switching to a 90 in my office. 90 needed to be drilled for overflow to a sump.
No huge rush in my mind, I'm waiting my diy rocks to cure before startup.
Found the leak about midnight, dropped water level about 60 %, removed some rocks, off to the garage to drill the 90 and silicone the internal overflow box in place.
Build the stand for the office, straight 2X framing, entire stand is hidden behind credenza.
move substrate, fish canister filter and some water. Brought level to 3-4 inches from bottom of fresh silicone.
In bed by 3:30
I am so glad I had the drill bit, the glass and the plan ready, if I stocked that tank undrilled, it never would have been done.
Tomorrow I'll worry about the 75 and raise the water to the overflow inthe 90.
 
i picked up the 1 1/2 bulkhead today. looks like it is going to be real real close with this freakin 60mm bit.
i could just drill out a hole with the bit on some cardboard right? if it fits could be good to go perhaps.
 
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