STN help
- Thread starter allsps40
- Start date
MammothReefer
Active member
Test kit type? I've had NITEMARE alk issues the past month. I'm keeping things stable but it's requiring way to much attention and I'm afraid I'm going to get burnt out if I continue at this pace. With that said I've always found stability is more important then the number when it comes to alk. I'd take a stable 7.5 over a drifting 9-10. I say shoot for 8 since you are so low and don't want to reverse swing it all the way back to 10, and try holding it there for a few weeks then decide if you prefer to keep it at 10.
allsps40
New member
No thats not happening I would notice it. Alk drops about 1 dkh a day with kalk ato.
allsps40
New member
API confirm with Elos.
acroholicreefer
New member
Change up your salt, increase the frequency of your changes to twice a week or 3 times every two weeks. I really think that the STN is from the tank upgrade and your system has not had the time to get established.
Take your phos pellets and carbon for a while. When I had recent tank move, I had an STN episode for a short term. Eventually I was able to stop the STN.
Take your phos pellets and carbon for a while. When I had recent tank move, I had an STN episode for a short term. Eventually I was able to stop the STN.
myzislow
Active member
I somewhat disagree as it's not only the actual Alkalinity level that is important, it's keeping the Alkalinity level stable that matters much more IMO. Whether you run your tank @ 7 or 10, stability is what is the key to happy SPS; especially larger acropora. I'd much rather run my tank stable @ 6-7 dKH than have it swinging all over the place daily.
More than likely I think your problems are stemming from your alk and the inability to keep it stable, especially if you had it steady @ around 10dKH in your previous tank.
What are you dosing and what method do you utilize? Are you dosing by hand or do you have dosing pumps on a controller?
allsps40
New member
I plan to switch to normal Red Sea salt as it has everything where I like it when mixed at 1.025. I need the reactor on po4 as tested today went from 0.00 to .05 not a problem just needs to be kept in check. The tank is maturing fast, I already have new coralline growth on the new rock that was totally white.
allsps40
New member
I dose kalk with my ATO which turns on may times a day, this with weeks on testing and dialing the amount of kalk kept ca at 450-460 and alk 10-11 for a long time. Now alk drops and ca is stable at 450-460. I have started to manually dose Kent Super Buffer and will be using Brightwell Alkalin 8.3-P once the kent is out, soon.
acroholicreefer
New member
how long has it been since the upgrade?
MammothReefer
Active member
Ah K ya I always found Elos / APi to be a bit on the low side and salifert to be a bit on the hide side so a 7 w/salifert is like a 5 w/elos (basically what i'm getting at is a 7 elos isn't that bad at all.) I'd still shoot for a stable 8 things should come back around if alk is the only issue.
pimp2daizzo
Active member
that where i was heading...i couldn't keep mine up at 10 ever few days i would check and it would be back down to around 7-8...finally, i gave up i just try to get it at 7-8 bust thing i ever did. and this happens to me right after moving from my 75 to my 90.
by they way whats your salt level?
cromedogg33
Member
Time to get the Calcium reactor going if you are using up so much dKH in a day. All this changing up salt and stuff is crazy talk.
You went from a 40g breeder to a 75g, you obviously have more water. If your ATO isn't providing enough, then you need to manually add it or figure something else out. Don't trust any PH readings IMO.
In terms of your original topic, for STN help if your current abilities/equipment don't allow you to stay around 10/11, then don't try to get there constantly, hang at around 7 or 8. myzislow is perfect in saying it's much better to be stable than swinging around. Staying stable at this point is the best thing you can do. If you are at 6/7 right now don't chase 10 in one day, take a couple weeks to get there. Alk swings to me are about the most important part of killing/thriving SPS.
You went from a 40g breeder to a 75g, you obviously have more water. If your ATO isn't providing enough, then you need to manually add it or figure something else out. Don't trust any PH readings IMO.
In terms of your original topic, for STN help if your current abilities/equipment don't allow you to stay around 10/11, then don't try to get there constantly, hang at around 7 or 8. myzislow is perfect in saying it's much better to be stable than swinging around. Staying stable at this point is the best thing you can do. If you are at 6/7 right now don't chase 10 in one day, take a couple weeks to get there. Alk swings to me are about the most important part of killing/thriving SPS.
pimp2daizzo
Active member
thats what i was trying to say...but i said it better
Gamepro_inc
New member
Also try opening a window neerby the tank. If your PH is way differnt from your alk thuis could be a sign that there isn't enogh O2 there is a copetition between CO2 and O2 and if your house has high levels of CO2 it can be driving some levels down and other up. I am sure someone can explain this better than I but thats about what I know on the subject. Also make sure your levels stay the same day and nioght take samlples at night and compare I had this problem for a while then tested my levels at night one time at 3am and found out that my PH was bottoming out at night. The culprit was there was a flaw in my progamming of the skimmer on my controller and turns out it was shutting off at night with the lights which depleted my O2 in the tank.
allsps40
New member
Ph is not an issue at all 8.0-8.4 by RKL PH probe, it alk being lower than normal. I will just be keeping it at 7-8 since this tank seems to run on the lower side, not going to add alk and fight to get it to 10 and have more alk swings. A Ca RX is out of my budget plus the need continued cost to refill Co2, IMO they are to expensive and not worth it. Kalk or 2 part IMO is a easier way to go. If you have a different opinion please share as I have no experience with Ca RX.
pimp2daizzo
Active member
woops ment to say you not i sorry :uhoh3:
cromedogg33
Member
allsps40:
It's all in the eye of the beholder. 2 part can sometimes be cheaper, more labor intensive, and about as expensive as continued cost. A reactor in my opinion, isn't a must until you have the load for it and even then if you don't mind dosing a ton of 2 part it still isn't required.
One thing I like over manual 2 part is, unless you are using dosing pumps you dump in and create mini swings all the time. A reactor is going to keep you going all day/night at perfect levels.
C02 refills are so minimal that I don't even really think about that as a cost. A 5# tank should last well into a year. I have a 10# tank with a reactor much to big for my tank, and I haven't even gone through half of it in a year, so that is minimal cost.
Lots of people don't like the Ca reactors due to the initial cost and the initial setup. I think it's well worth it.
It's all in the eye of the beholder. 2 part can sometimes be cheaper, more labor intensive, and about as expensive as continued cost. A reactor in my opinion, isn't a must until you have the load for it and even then if you don't mind dosing a ton of 2 part it still isn't required.
One thing I like over manual 2 part is, unless you are using dosing pumps you dump in and create mini swings all the time. A reactor is going to keep you going all day/night at perfect levels.
C02 refills are so minimal that I don't even really think about that as a cost. A 5# tank should last well into a year. I have a 10# tank with a reactor much to big for my tank, and I haven't even gone through half of it in a year, so that is minimal cost.
Lots of people don't like the Ca reactors due to the initial cost and the initial setup. I think it's well worth it.
chrishayes
New member
I think the harder part of the rx is that its so dang hard to dial in for a low/medium load. If you are jam packed with mature colonies then it is THE way to go but for the average tank 2 part works better because its simpler to just calculate based on drop then bump a timer up or down. Once every 2 weeks testing after that will keep you in the loop of whats going on so you can adjust up or down. I even dose mine once every 24 hours for near rx stability. Plus using a recipe 1 will get you a ph buffer as well where a rx will require kalk or the like to buffer ph when running due to the co2 effects.
Above all, alk stability is key, you know that. Kalk is tough to use for sole cal/alk suppliment in larger tanks or sps dominated tanks especially if you are using an ato. Its not precise enough but can work if you invest the time in testing and tweaking. Problem is in the meantime you end up with swings like youre having now...
Above all, alk stability is key, you know that. Kalk is tough to use for sole cal/alk suppliment in larger tanks or sps dominated tanks especially if you are using an ato. Its not precise enough but can work if you invest the time in testing and tweaking. Problem is in the meantime you end up with swings like youre having now...
