Stockman standpipe
- Thread starter rfalken
- Start date
uncleof6
Active member
Noise in an overflow box comes from several sources. It is influenced by the flow rate, and things such as the length of the "weir," whether there are teeth or not, and the height of the water fall.
The Stockman Standpipe is the same as a Durso, an open channel. The only difference is in how the water enters. It is subject to the same physics as the durso. Once the pipe is over ~ 1/4 full of water, the flow becomes turbulent, and it begins to trap air, which causes bubbles, gurgling, and instability, depending on how far past the limits you go. E.G. if you had built a Durso, you would have the same issue. Been a while since a question came up concerning the Stockman Standpipe, at least in this neck of the woods anyway.
Just like the inventor of the durso, the inventor(s) of the stockman, hoffer gurgle buster, and other "air assisted" or "air/water mix" standpipe designs, did not understand the physics of their operation. The only cure for the issues is to increase the pipe size, and/or reduce the flow rate, reduce the number and type of fittings, to the point the water flow becomes laminar: with water flowing on the walls of the pipe, and calm air in the middle. If your flow rate is much above 350gph, (for 1.5" pipe) the only real cure is to convert to a siphon system. There are a number of gimmick quick fixes floating around, but ultimately they don't do any good, unless the pipe size is increased, and/or the flow rate reduced.
Bean has a blurb on "Standpipe Basics" in the article on his website.
http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx
The Stockman Standpipe is the same as a Durso, an open channel. The only difference is in how the water enters. It is subject to the same physics as the durso. Once the pipe is over ~ 1/4 full of water, the flow becomes turbulent, and it begins to trap air, which causes bubbles, gurgling, and instability, depending on how far past the limits you go. E.G. if you had built a Durso, you would have the same issue. Been a while since a question came up concerning the Stockman Standpipe, at least in this neck of the woods anyway.
Just like the inventor of the durso, the inventor(s) of the stockman, hoffer gurgle buster, and other "air assisted" or "air/water mix" standpipe designs, did not understand the physics of their operation. The only cure for the issues is to increase the pipe size, and/or reduce the flow rate, reduce the number and type of fittings, to the point the water flow becomes laminar: with water flowing on the walls of the pipe, and calm air in the middle. If your flow rate is much above 350gph, (for 1.5" pipe) the only real cure is to convert to a siphon system. There are a number of gimmick quick fixes floating around, but ultimately they don't do any good, unless the pipe size is increased, and/or the flow rate reduced.
Bean has a blurb on "Standpipe Basics" in the article on his website.
http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx
Yeah okey that is the problem then 
i'm currently running the return pump on 800gph in a 1.5" pipe... So that's is seriously above the limits for 1.5" ... Best thing is I don't need that much flow I only have a 90 gallon tank, so i'll go an turn down the pump to see if I can find a sweet spot in my current setup.
Thanks for the explanation...
i'm currently running the return pump on 800gph in a 1.5" pipe... So that's is seriously above the limits for 1.5" ... Best thing is I don't need that much flow I only have a 90 gallon tank, so i'll go an turn down the pump to see if I can find a sweet spot in my current setup.Thanks for the explanation...
uncleof6
Active member
Yeah okey that is the problem then
Thanks for the explanation...
Worst thing is, actually that tank should be running around 900gph + on the return (the power heads don't add anything.) You are not running under-gravel filter plates 40 years ago...
ok, i was actually looking at buying a DC pump that is rated to maximum delivery of 1600gph... But i was a little afraid that it was over dimensioned for my size tank.
The tank i got only have 2 holes drilled in it and the maximum pipe i can install is 2" , so it seems i never going to get that sump silent..
The tank i got only have 2 holes drilled in it and the maximum pipe i can install is 2" , so it seems i never going to get that sump silent..
mr.maroonsalty
New member
10(volume) is arbitrary, keep your noise pollution to a minimum and choke down your pump. To my knowledge there has never been done a study on the sump flow to volume ratio. I kept a tank successfully at 3x and 10x. What is your skimmer pump rated at?
uncleof6
Active member
The flow through the skimmer, and the skimmer pump size are completely irrelevant to the flow through the sump. The only time the "system" flow rate, is relevant to the operation of the skimmer, is if the drain is feeding the skimmer directly. (A really bad idea.)
The skimmer size rating is just as arbitrary as any other general rule of thumb, for instance 5x 10x, 20x, 100x. Generally skimmers rated by "gallons" need to up-sized 3x the rating. Because the rating was picked out of their back pocket, just like the 5x, 10x, 20x, 100x. There are no standards for skimmer sizing, none.
What gets left behind is the concept of a multi-pass system, as opposed to single pass systems. In a multi-pass system the higher the flow rate, the more efficient the system. That is widely accepted, and no lab studies required to come to that conclusion.
mr.maroonsalty
New member
First let's define "efficiently" what you are saying is if one upgrades from say a 100 watt pump that turn over a 6x tv to a 160 watt pump that turns over 10x tv that the system will be more efficient at growing corals?
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