Stream 6000 has lost some power!

LowCel

LowCel

Premium Member
Hey Roger.

Right now I have two stream 6000's, each on a single controller. I just added the second stream on Monday. At about 1/2 power it is stronger than my old stream at full power.

I figured that it was probably dirty so I let it run in vinegar and water for about an hour. After that I cleaned it good with a tooth brush. The propeller magnet and the part that it slides in were both completely covered with a tough white algae. After I let it soak for a while I was able to clean them both. They look like new now.

I put everything back together and plugged it in. At first the red lights on my controller were going crazy flashing back and forth. I took the stream apart a couple of times and I finally managed to get the rubber ring in the right place. Well now the flashing has quit. Now my problem is that it still is not nowhere close to being as strong as my new stream.

Any ideas or suggestions?

Bruce
 
I would check the performance without the controller. I would make sure the screen is clean and the drivers are at full power. Their will be some difference and a more dramatic one if the new pump has the 7240.27 driver and the old one the 7240.26. A 10% variation in performance is normal if the drivers are the same- this is just the nature of electronics. Between new and old drivers I think a difference of as much as 15% could be possible because the old driver had a lot more resistance and a lot more variation between units. The new driver has a finer control so slower settings are slower and faster settings are faster but only slightly. Disregarding this, the most likely causes are wear to the prop, or debris on the intake screen or a part dragging or not fitting properly on your old one. Magnets do also wear, especially if they get stuck at some point, the changing polarity demagnetizes them to some extent. It could be a cumulative effect of all of these things as well. I wouldn't worry about it.
 
Well, the old driver is a 7240.26. The new one is a 7240.27. So would that explain why the new stream is at least 25% stronger than the older one? (I'm including 10% for the normal variance and 25% for the difference in the drivers.) Is there anything I can do to make the older one closer to the newer one?

I checked the drivers, they are both at full power. I cleaned the heck out of the intake screen so that definately isn't it. As far as I know the magnet has never been stuck, the alarm has never sounded.

I know I probably shouldn't worry, but it really is a big difference.
 
I have two 6100 there performance is more than 25% different, and i got them at the same time, changing drivers din't help, but when i change the pumps on the controller from left to right fix most of the performance problems you can try that .
 
I asked Tunze and they said that because the first pump in the first socket powers the controller it looses some power when the controller is attached but they didn't think it should be that dramatic. They said they really couldn't think of a combination of differences that would lead to a difference of more than 20%. The main thing was as I mentioned if at some point the magnet was seized with lime deposits the motor coil changing polarity could cause a partial demagnetization and a new drive unit might fix this.
 
They are both on their own individual controller so I don't think it could be the first suggestion.

The magnet has never seized as far as I know. Would the alarm have sounded if it had?

Last but not least.....how much is a new drive unit?

Don't get me wrong, I have plenty of flow for my 90 gallon. What I am concerned about is when I upgrade tanks in a few months.
 
I'll give you a call Bruce and we'll try to walk through some things. Are you home now?

I got your voice mail so if that number is good let me know.
 
Roger, for some reason the older stream just keeps setting off the alarm now. Would it be alright if I just sent the whole thing in for you to look at?
 
Yes, but could you first check if the single controller change had any effect on the other pump. i.e. swap the controllers and see if one moves faster or slower so we can check that out too.
 
No problem. I just now checked it and there may have been a slight difference but not much at all, if any.

Could you give me a shipping adress? Also, is an RA # necessary? Oh yeah, and about how long is average turn around?

BTW, I am aware that this could be my fault for waiting too long to clean the stream. If this is the case then I understand it will be my responsibility to pay for the repair.

Thanks!
 
Last edited:
Tunze USA
1304 Monica St
Austin TX 78758

With two people we don't need RA numbers. Just send it in. This week is going to be crazy because I have a lot of stuff coming in but assuming it won't arrive until late this week or early next week I can safely say I should have it done within 3 days. Longer than usual because I want to test it for a while.
 
No. I suspect it is just a drive unit problem but it could be an electronics problem.
 
Hey Roger. I got my stream back today. I hooked it back up about an hour ago. It works perfect!

Thank you!!!!!




BTW........whats up with the new avatar?????
 
I think it had something to do with calcium deposits inside the unit. I believe the problem was caused by me waiting too long between cleanings.
 
The part referred to in the manual as bush bearing labeled part 3g or 3h depending on what manual revision you have was cemented to part 3f or 3g (magnet rotor). This creates a situation where the pump has to drag a part that is supposed to serve as a smooth bearing that the rotor spins on.

Never use strong acids, vinegar and a brush, I use a brush set that is sold for cleaning hand guns. They cost about $10 at a gun store and include a bunch of tiny brushes for cleaning all the little crannies. It also has some metal pokers with serrations that work great for cleaning the cooling port in the center of the rotor assembly.
 
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