sump design

I've been getting a number of requests for info on my sump design.
This isn't the "only" or "best" sump design, but it incorporates some features that I've never seen anywhere else.
This is a picture of my sump.
IMG_1083keeper.jpg
It's a 75 gallon aquarium that was drilled in four different locations. It's covered to minimize evaporation and maximize heat retention. It can be uncovered in the summer to have the opposite effect. Water flows from the two returns (at top left) to the pump intakes (bottom right).

Two bulkheads were installed at the bottom right for pump intakes.
Two bulkheads were installed at the top right and left. (One is an emergency overflow drain and the other connects to a refill hose.)
I realize that several notable people in the hobby recommend locating your skimmer directly where water from the main display aquarium empties into the sump, but I think my design is better.
Water returning from the main aquarium falls into a 10 micron filter pad. (Note that it needs cleaning in the picture!) The water then overflows into my refugium area filled with Chaetomorpha and a few spare pieces of rock. (The return seen below the cleaning magnet is from my skimmer.)
Any excess food that goes down the drains feeds my amphipod and worm population (in the refugium) before it's removed by the skimmer. In addition- pods crawl into the filter basket and eat any valuable food items they can find. The Chaetomorpha acts as a food and bubble trap. It's crawling with "bugs". There are two baffles and I have eggcrate/light diffuser in there as well. This prevents big chunks of Chaeto from clogging my pump intakes- but once in a while a small piece makes it into the main aquarium and the fishes fight over it. If you look closely you can see where the auto-feeder is located above the main pump intake. The funnel isn't visible but you can see the PVC tube that directs the food into the pump intake. I hope this helps someone.
Now then- I need to go clean that filter pad!
 
Nice design Gary, I have been weighing many disigns for my sump but keep getting the same advice you mentioned "people in the hobby recommend locating your skimmer directly where water from the main display aquarium empties into the sump". I was told having the fuge first would not be functional but not much to back it up. Your system speaks for itself and has now given me a model. How are you feeding the skimmer? If I put my in sump skimmer after the fuge and have it dump into the return pump chamber, would the ratio of water diverted through the skimmer cause a loss or just lower the pod population to the tank? Thanks, Joe
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8883337#post8883337 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Be1withthereef
How are you feeding the skimmer?
My skimmer pump intake is at the bottom right.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8883337#post8883337 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Be1withthereef
If I put my in sump skimmer after the fuge and have it dump into the return pump chamber, would the ratio of water diverted through the skimmer cause a loss or just lower the pod population to the tank? Thanks, Joe
That's difficult to say. What's the ratio of water diverted through the skimmer? IME it's far better to skim than not skim- even if it causes the loss of a few beneficial things.
 
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My initial design was a 20 long sump w/5gal RDSB and a mag7 or 9.5 for a 75 gal. The skimmer pump is a rio 2100 but I want to go with less flow and more air for longer contact...perhaps a mazzei and a mag5. I don't think the skimmer will have the impact I orginally thought and plenty of treats will make it to the display. If I use a fuge, I will forget the RDSB & try to get the biggest sump I can under the stand(standard AGA) so I can start with a basic layout and have room for future upgrades. I'm sure there will be more questions......Thanks again
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8887489#post8887489 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by morris2
Gary, what is the volume flowing through your tank/sump?
right now a minimum of 1600 GPH.
That number will drop as soon as I hook up my penductors- which will provide more in-tank flow at the expenese of total tank turnover.
 
What pump are you going to use with the penductors? I wanted to use a sequence Wahoo but have been told twice that their not saltwater rated so I'm considering a pan world 200ps. Opion? The tanks in the living room so I have to watch the noise level

Is free flow on 1" bulk heads/lines 600 gph max and closed loop/presurized 900gph max? I thought I'd use penductors mainly because my AGA RR 180 only has two 1" drains and that way I could maximize the tank turn over without blasting water throught the sump.

I thought I'd leave drilling till I had a year or so experiance.

Thanks,
Randy
 
I'm running one Iwaki 100RLT as my main circulation pump. I'm attaching two 1" penductors with the .300" orifice. The recommendation is if you have two penductors running on one Iwaki 100, go with the .300" orifice. If you have one Penductor per pump, go with the .375" orifice, which should increase the performance. The .375" units really show more flow with 3500 gph and up.

I've never heard anyone say that a Sequence Wahoo can't be used with saltwater, so I'd question that info. The Wahoo is a "flow" style pump, so even though it's similar to an Iwaki 70RLT in a lot of ways, the Iwaki 70 (or Pan World/Blue Line 70) is a better choice for use with penductors because they're pressure rated pumps.
The head your pump will be working under makes a big difference in what pump you should choose.

This online calculator will give you recommended minimum sizing for drains and overflows:
http://www.reefcentral.com/calc/drain.php

and here's a handy dandy head loss calculator:
http://www.reefcentral.com/calc/hlc2.php

I'll even throw in a link to a pump selection guide:
http://reefs.org/library/pumps/
 
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Yup, I got the pressure style info. Unless I mixed up the model name the Sequence Wahoo should be rated at 37' max head if I remember right.

I was a bit sceptical about sequence reeflo pumps not being saltwater safe, but I think I'll order a Pan World unless you / someone else says they are very noisy.

Because the sumps "open loop" would you use 23' for the penductors plus 4' for the sump to tank distance when looking at a pumps chart (head height / flow/ watts)?

Thanks for the info, I've noticed how great you are at helping Gary!
 
Pan Worlds, Blue Lines and Iwakis aren't known for being the quietest of pumps. A lot of the noise they generate is from their cooling fans. If your pump is to be located in the stand and the aquarium is in your living room you might want to do more research on pumps.
On the other hand- if your sump is in the basement these pumps are proven reliable workhorses and are a great choice (although they consume a lot of electricity).
Here's a link to some more info on penductors:
http://www.kthsales.com/website/Misc/hello_salt_water_enthusiasts.htm
 
Thanks for the link. I've read that 3 time oops make that 4 times. Very helpful except for a fairly quiet pump lol. I do have a 5' crawl space under my tank (26' long and 6' wide) but want to prove myself successful before I drill the tank / floor. I've been reading every pump related thread for a month now, but haven't found any definites yet.

Since my tanks been sitting in the living room for 6 weeks now without water, while I try to figure the pump out, I think I'm just going to order a Pan World 200ps tomorrow.

Thanks!
 
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*old thread*

few changes over the past years:

*I use filter socks instead of filter floss nowadays
*I dropped a 10 gallon aquarium into the left side to act as a refugia/RDSB/3rd chamber for the calcium reactor
*heaters are now in the final chamber (far right) just below pump intakes
*all Chaetomorpha has been outcompeted by Rhodophyta
*fuge lighting is now a spiral CF spotlight
*rock in sump is gone
*all horizontal eggcrate is gone
 
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