Switch to T5s??

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8903144#post8903144 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Warnberg
I switched out my T5's for 250 watt MH's, I selected the XM10K bulb with IceCap Ballasts. I must say after about a month my corals are going nuts, there is more growth and coloration in them then I ever saw under the T5's and my electric bill dropped 90.00 a month, go figure. Taller hood I guess and better ventilation so the chiller runs less.

Then again I also switched salts, from IO to Tropic Marin Pro Reef. Probably a combination of things that helped.
JME
Click to expand...

i would definatly agree that if you want growth that is the way to go.
did you use actinics as well with the 10ks because i think that is where i went wrong. ... if i would have used actinics as well it might have one me over
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8903473#post8903473 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Warnberg
Yes, I have a pair of 54 Watt T5's (actinic bulbs) that I use for supplement and dawn dusk effect.
Click to expand...

i think thats going to be my sweat spot.
im going to try 2 t5s actincs with the metal halides
next year im going to try and upgrade to the ice cap ballast. i hear their better energy wise as well.... does any body have any input as far as energy consumption. im runngin the m57 ballast do-it yourself. thier very quiet i dont even hear them .
 
dave I know you and I have used alot of different t5 combo's did you try the newer ati actinic plus bulbs? not the geisemann claimed made in the same factory as ati or some people claim are the same bulb but have you tried the real ati's yet? huge difference for the better. not like the geisemanns that make the corals look plastic. very blue and very nice. fluoresce like crazy.
 
Rob, you should see the pile of used T5's I have... Anyway I am using the Giesemann Actinic bulbs right now but may try a few others as supplements. I do not believe I have tried the bulbs you mentioned, every thing I have seem to be Giesemann bulbs, even the ones that are suppsed to be ATI's (like you mentioned). I'd like to see the label on a true ATI bulb to be sure.
 
Rob, do the true ATI bulbs actually say ATI on the bulb? Correct me if I wrong here but this is what I can tell: GE bulbs actually have the GE emblem on them, Giesemann bulbs actually say Giesemann on them, knock off ATI's do not say ATI on them but have a label similar to a label on the Giesemann. I would really like to see the label on a true ATI bulb, cause now I am questioning what I have here that where sold to me as ATI bulbs.
 
I can say by experience that the ballast design is not good. I just burnt one up because of the way they have you connect the power - very dangerous as far as I'm concerned. I've always have used IceCaps and they are hard wired. All you need to do is put wire nuts on the ends of the power cable, put it into a water tight electrical box and that is it. With those ballast you have to put all the fine wires into these little holes. Well one of the strains from the black (Hot) touched the White (Neutral) and goodbye! VERY dangous IMO. If you need to wire it, that's not the problem but it's the small connector that I have a problem with. I sent it back but had to purchase from the same vendor or pay 15% - switched everything back to IceCaps. They are cheaper - but . . .IceCaps are built better. Just a warning if you do purchase them, I do have 1 ballast that is built that way and I'm VERY careful with it. I'm concerned also with moving the canopy and with wires moving - not real safe. This is JMO and I'm sure many reefers have not had a problem, I just wanted you to be aware before purchasing and with mine no instructions.
 
well reef sorry you had a problem but I can tell you for sure that unfortunately whomever wired that ballast did it wrong. you are not supposed to use stranded wire in those ballasts. I believe it's exactly 18 gauge solid wire. then a person should only strip back about 3/8 inch of the insulation and push it in all the way and then tug on it to make sure it doesn't slip and it will dig into the wire for a better connection. any electrical is dangerous if we don't do it right. I have been using the same basic ballasts without a problem. then again I use solid wire and use a wire nut to convert to stranded for your plug. the fact of the matter is these are another fine example of how we can use everyday products in our aquariums. radiums are another. they are made for commercial buildings and lighting systems. Ice cap is a quality product I will not argue a bit and there customer service is second to none. but in my opinion they are bad for bulbs. so are hqi ballasts on mogul base bulbs. sure you get more light but at a sacrifice and who needs more light anyway? as far as safe when installed properly they pass ul listings and both federal and all 50 state building codes including fire and electrical.
 
dave I forgot about you :) the ati bulbs say ati way big enough to not be fine print. if they don't say ati pretty large they are most likely not ati. probably some grey market junk or geisemann. I think johns first batch was tru ati then the next batch or maybe 5 later came in geisemann. he ordered the real ati's special for myself and the matt that used to work there. not sure if he got more since then or not. he is a long way and I haven't been buying anything so I haven't been to his store.
 
I did the wiring (I'm an engineer - but not an electrician) and it is what came with the kit - no instructions nothing. I have done 100's of wire work for my work and my home and this is the first time this has ever happened! Yes I agree they should have been solid - IMO, but that is not what I received with the kit. I guess what I'm saying about the vendor is that Water and Electric is a bad combination and someone is going to get hurt if they don't stop the practice of sending the power cables with stranded wires with those ballasts.
 
gotcha. I didn't realize you bought the wire in a kit with the ballast. yes this is a very bad practice. I do everything myself and buy everything individually. I did not buy a kit. so on the one you have left I would switch over to solid just in case. chesters on missouri sells the right wire. they are just north of w. / e. bay drive
 
Thanks robthorn for the information - I haven't mounted them yet so this weekend I'll get the solid wires. From what I can see all the kits for that ballast comes with the type of power cable I received. This is just dangerous - and that is what I was trying to convey. If they would fix that one problem - well number one I would not have burnt it up but I would probably relay what you are now - that they are great.
 
thats what you get when a fish guy tries to be an electrician. ;) oh then you figure the fish guy can make money and things get all messed up.
 
So, 2- 250 14 k Phoenix HQIs and 2 or 4 54 W T5 blue plus would be a sweet combo in my new canopy over a 90 gallon tank? Thank you.
 
2 actinic plus for more blue and 2 12 k whatever they are called. maybe blue plus for a whiter. find ati bulbs they look so much better. if you do 4 t5s I would get 2 of each of the bulbs mentioned. my geisemann actinics came on by accident tonight and man they looked aweful compared to the ati's.
 
can i get a pic of your sump setup - it looks like you have the same 90 i do - also if you go to sell your lights or if anyone else is selling any light stuff let me know please - thanks
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
High Zinc in ICP Test & Switching to ATI Essentials – Need Advice
Replies
17
Views
3K
Reefing102
Reefing102
M
Return to Reefing
2 3
Replies
40
Views
8K
kelly_12
K
A
DRILL aquarium only 1 DownPipe?
Replies
1
Views
241
Timfish
Timfish
A
DRILL aquarium only 1 DownPipe?
Replies
0
Views
204
Andrés Garza
A
Anemone
Power Outages
Replies
3
Views
1K
alton
alton
Back
Top