T5's: A cautionary note

[sjm817]

yep, made in EC. The box says Giesemann, the bulbs say D+D, reefgeek says its an ATI bulb with a new name on it.


How long before its burnt in?

Im now running
Actinic
Blue+
Blue+
Aqua blue

Way too blue for me, I may throw the Actinic out and put a aquablue back in. However, I guess if they are not burnt in they will change?

That would be a very blue look with that combo. Switch out the Actinic for an Aquablue or daylight.

 

[Ti]

That would be a very blue look with that combo. Switch out the Actinic for an Aquablue or daylight.

That combo comes out a weird purple/blue depending on the bulb placement.
I know cause I tried that combo before.

quote from the D&D site
ALGAE GROWTH

Please note:
With high illumination of planted tanks growth is enhanced. However if there is an excess of phosphate the growth rate of unwanted and nuisance algae is likely to accelerate. To solve this problem we recommend that you use Rowaphos which successfully absorbs phosphate and silicate, removing the nutrients which the algae need to feed on without releasing back any of the absorbed materials.


Translation: Through our testing we have discovered that T5's produce that much par, that given the proper conditions your tank will be a photoynthetic Mecca. Every corner of you tank will be bombarded with extra pars to allow for anything & everything to grow. The less corals you have the more room for the other crap to grow & cause a never ending cycle. The only way around this is if you run some type of phosphate removal. If you don't agree with these statements you will soon.

I don't believe it nor will I. (FLAME SUIT ON!)

One little note, you know that green stuff that was growing in the back of my tank.

If it's encrusted it's coraline.

 

[horkn]

I guess we will see when I add my next batch of mushrooms...real soon.

my green striped shrooms are happy only when the main t5s are off, and i have the NO actinic on after that....


everything else loves the t5s....

i think next i will try to get a hairy shroom, as bornemanns coral book says the hairy ones can take more light...

 

[The Grim Reefer]

I've had regular old orange shrooms high up on the rocks under a million watts(well, 600 anyway) of T5's and halides and they did fine under both. I think it is just a matter of acclimating them to a lot of light.

 

[sjm817]

That combo comes out a weird purple/blue depending on the bulb placement.
I know cause I tried that combo before.

So have I. Its maybe a little blue, but would be nowhere near as blue as what he has. Right now I run (2) blue+, (1) Daylight, (1) Aquablue which is more neutral looking (to my eyes). I'm putting in two more bulbs this weekend and will have (3)Blue+, (2) Aquablue, (1) Daylight.

Lighting color is very much a personal preference kind of thing. What looks good to one, may not to another.

 

[FastUno]

i think next i will try to get a hairy shroom, as bornemanns coral book says the hairy ones can take more light...

I'll vouch for that. My hairy shrooms loved the light & they seem to be wanting more light under the MH now.

 

[FastUno]

Those with MH, how long is your photo period?

 

[horkn]

if it was an acclimation problem with my green striped shrooms, it would have done well where i first had it....

somethings just different about the t5 ho vs the MH....


i think ricsor the hairy shrooms are my best bet..

 

[bllfish]

Grim - just got my T5 swtup from reefgeek after a slight delay with the blue+ bulbs. Tank looks great with the setup ypu recommended.

 

[Orm Embar]

Ti - I'm curious that you don't believe the statement, as it makes sense to me. I would think that if you do have excess nutrients in some form (ex: phosphate), then increasing your lighting might increase algal growth if low light was the limiting factor beforehand. (Chemistryspeak - light was the "limiting reagent")





"quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
quote from the D&D site
ALGAE GROWTH

Please note:
With high illumination of planted tanks growth is enhanced. However if there is an excess of phosphate the growth rate of unwanted and nuisance algae is likely to accelerate. To solve this problem we recommend that you use Rowaphos which successfully absorbs phosphate and silicate, removing the nutrients which the algae need to feed on without releasing back any of the absorbed materials.


Translation: Through our testing we have discovered that T5's produce that much par, that given the proper conditions your tank will be a photoynthetic Mecca. Every corner of you tank will be bombarded with extra pars to allow for anything & everything to grow. The less corals you have the more room for the other crap to grow & cause a never ending cycle. The only way around this is if you run some type of phosphate removal. If you don't agree with these statements you will soon.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


I don't believe it nor will I. (FLAME SUIT ON!)"

 

[FastUno]

I think he does believe it, & just doesn't want to admit it. Plus it's friday & he is in a flamer mood. Do you guys agree that if you are feeding your fish & growing your macro algae that you will have some levels of phosphates?

What are the sources of phosphates?

 

[The Grim Reefer]

I think he does believe it, & just doesn't want to admit it. Plus it's friday & he is in a flamer mood. Do you guys agree that if you are feeding your fish & growing your macro algae that you will have some levels of phosphates?

What are the sources of phosphates?

Phosphores leaking from fluorescent lamps

(or it could come from foods or untreated tap water)

 

[tjay]

we had a problem with it until we went to ro/di.
Since then no measurable phosphate.
Now the tank is fallow at the moment so water params are a little easier to maintain.

So I have been following this thread and I am still to make my big lighting purchase. Right now I am using 8 T5 novas I will move those to the QT Tank once I make my main tank buy. If you had a 90 gallon that you have no plans of keeping SPS corals in would you go with MH or T5???

 

[The Grim Reefer]

With no clams or SPS I'd stick with T5 although I would maybe throw in a VHO actinic unless URI comesout with a good T5 actinic.

 

[tjay]

we have thought about a clam, but at this moment I just want to get to where I can take proper care of softies and lps. I am just a young reefer ya know. Well, I do want to do zoo's so do they need MH in your opinion?

 

[merk1_99]

Any opinion on this item

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...ssPageName=WD1V

vs. the Tek Supply hood....

36''x12''x24'' tank dims.

When I get my new T5's I will be posting pics. All my tank currently has is 80lbs LR and 40 lbs LS, with Just one rock with 5 mushrooms. I want to keep a clam or two, some high light corals. And yes after this reading this thread I do plan on experimenting with low/mid level coral/shrooms. I am a newbie in this world since I used to just keep a FO tank. So I am going to try this experiment with little to none experience. Hopefully ppl will learn from my new adventure....

 

[Codeman00]

we have thought about a clam, but at this moment I just want to get to where I can take proper care of softies and lps. I am just a young reefer ya know. Well, I do want to do zoo's so do they need MH in your opinion?

I'm a new reefer too..but I've been in a LFS that had an entire 90 gallon zoo tank lit by T5s and they looked quite healthy. I talked the store owner and he said he has had good success with them.

 

[tjay]

good to hear, thanks

 

[sjm817]

I added 2 more bulbs this weekend. Went from (4) 54W to (6). So far, so good. Everything seems happy. Running

Front
Blue+
Aquablue
Blue+
GE Day
Aquablue
Blue+
Rear

 

[horkn]

we had a problem with it until we went to ro/di.
Since then no measurable phosphate.

i always only ever used rodi water, and i had a phosphate problem.. but never any nitrate detectable....