T5's: A cautionary note
- Thread starter gregt
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tjay
Premium Member
Yeah I could not get it to work either. I am curious if this is the same guy I am working with. Could you post the link again?
If you check my little red house I am working with one ebayer to build him a web site in exchange for lighting.
As for the phosphates, I show almost 0 phos since I am not really feeding in the main due to it being fallow. But Nitrates are always a little of a problem. I have them down to 20 ppm now using 20% water changes weekly. Part of this is due to the fact that I used all seeded water and sand from a LFS in my 90. Plus side was I had almost 0 cycle but the nitrates started at 80 and have been working down. More live rock is most likely going to cure that I hope.
If you check my little red house I am working with one ebayer to build him a web site in exchange for lighting.
As for the phosphates, I show almost 0 phos since I am not really feeding in the main due to it being fallow. But Nitrates are always a little of a problem. I have them down to 20 ppm now using 20% water changes weekly. Part of this is due to the fact that I used all seeded water and sand from a LFS in my 90. Plus side was I had almost 0 cycle but the nitrates started at 80 and have been working down. More live rock is most likely going to cure that I hope.
Limulus
Premium Member
I've been trying to plow my way through this interesting thread in large part because I'm trying to decide on lighting for a new 48 x 24 x 24 tank, in which I plan to grow SPS. I have direct experience with DE HQI MH (great) and power compacts (not so great). I was all set to go with a Maristar (2 x 250W plus 2 x 54W T5 ) or equivalent Giesemann 230 plus T5. Now you guys have me thinking - why not go for an 8 x 54W T5 Tek-Light pendant?
If all I'm really going to miss is the "shimmer" of MH (which I like, BTW) but will gain a cooler-running fixture of "comparable" eficiency and PAR with T5s - maybe I should take the plunge?
Would anyone care to summarize the pros and cons for me or argue one way or another at this point? I'd appreciate it because after reading most of this thread I'm still uncertain.
If all I'm really going to miss is the "shimmer" of MH (which I like, BTW) but will gain a cooler-running fixture of "comparable" eficiency and PAR with T5s - maybe I should take the plunge?
Would anyone care to summarize the pros and cons for me or argue one way or another at this point? I'd appreciate it because after reading most of this thread I'm still uncertain.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
I think an 8x54 watt system would do pretty good but I would Stick with the 250 watt halide system. First off I would be inclined to overdrive at least half the T5's with an Ice Cap ballast if you are raising SPS which will require an extra 150 bux and some elbo grease to wire it into a Tek system. Second you will be replacing 8 T5 lamps every 18 months as opposed to 2 halide lamps every 10 to 12 months. Just makes more sense to go halide given your tank deminsions and your desire for SPS.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
According to Ice Cap the lamps don't die early because of the method they use to drive them. I got better than a year out of my overdriven lamps. I haven't heard of anyone having problems with the Ice Cap ballasts except for someone who was using a URI A4 (made by Ice Cap) which isn't rated for T5's but will run them.
Limulus
Premium Member
I didn't get much into the details about the IceCaps. I was enquiring about whether to go with the 80W T5 bulbs or staggered 54W 48" bulbs given that I have a 60" tank. He recommended against the 60" retrofit specifically because I would need to run IceCap ballasts. The feeling I got from him (maybe incorrect in retrospect) was a reliability issue. I'll hasten to add that IceCap has a good rep. of course, I haven't seen anyone post problems with T5s and this ballast - and I don't want to incorrectly represent or overstate Perry's reservations about the ballast. It might be best to contact him directly for clarification.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
If you want SPS in a 60" tank use the longer lamps. You don't have to use Ice Cap ballasts for them either. There are 80 watt T5 ballasts out there, you just have to get them through industrial lighting sources.
I have both a 430 and a 660 ballast on my system. I'm currently only using 4 lamps over a 55, but plan on adding a VHO URI actinic to the mix. I have noticed that the 430 with 2 lamps barely gets above ambient temperature, but with 2 lamps the 660 runs a little warmer. Not hot, but a noticeable difference.
Just though it was odd.
Just though it was odd.
FastUno
New member
The afflicted corals were the green fuzzy mushrooms & the big orange cap.
The mushrooms would stretch so far out & it was unbelievable. One of the mushrooms released itself from the rock & I placed it in my other tank. At the same time the cap was getting paler. After 2nd day of T5's back on the mushrooms are back to normal & cap is getting color back.
On the defense I was told that the MH bulbs on this fixture are 8 months old, but judging on the way they look it appears to be a heck of a lot longer. I started to get signs of algae growing all over the rocks, very small particles. Now they are all gone, after putting T5's back on. Looking at the MH bulbs, it seems that they are darkened on the internal bulbous part, a sure sign that they have exceeded the time limit.
Does it make sense that the cap would bleach though? When corals do not receive enough light do they bleach or turn brown?
The mushrooms would stretch so far out & it was unbelievable. One of the mushrooms released itself from the rock & I placed it in my other tank. At the same time the cap was getting paler. After 2nd day of T5's back on the mushrooms are back to normal & cap is getting color back.
On the defense I was told that the MH bulbs on this fixture are 8 months old, but judging on the way they look it appears to be a heck of a lot longer. I started to get signs of algae growing all over the rocks, very small particles. Now they are all gone, after putting T5's back on. Looking at the MH bulbs, it seems that they are darkened on the internal bulbous part, a sure sign that they have exceeded the time limit.
Does it make sense that the cap would bleach though? When corals do not receive enough light do they bleach or turn brown?
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
The shroom streatching would seem to indicate it wanted more light but the cap whiting out would be too much light, I think
How long were the halides on the tank? Could be the corals were still acclimating.
How long were the halides on the tank? Could be the corals were still acclimating.
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