T5's: A cautionary note
- Thread starter gregt
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FastUno
New member
Look at the 2nd to last row.
http://www.atlantisaquarium.net/LPSofties1.html
http://www.atlantisaquarium.net/LPSofties1.html
FastUno
New member
I put my order in for the Acquactinics & went for the XM 20K bulbs.
Hopefully I will get them by Wed.
The 6500K & 10K are suppose to be much better for growth, right? Take a look at this chart from Sanjay's & can you see any reason why they would be that much better? What is rumored to be one of the better 10K MH bulbs around for growth?
http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe....avelength=400&Maxwavelength=700&Submit=Submit
A way to dim T5's would be sweet.
Hopefully I will get them by Wed.
The 6500K & 10K are suppose to be much better for growth, right? Take a look at this chart from Sanjay's & can you see any reason why they would be that much better? What is rumored to be one of the better 10K MH bulbs around for growth?
http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe....avelength=400&Maxwavelength=700&Submit=Submit
A way to dim T5's would be sweet.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
You going 20K? Hope you went for 250 watt lamps and no sheild.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Yeah but 53 UMOL's of PAR. At least tell me you got a magnetic ballast instead of the IceCap, the mag will get you up in the 70's for PAR. The 53 reading is without a reflector but it is also without the sheild (will decrease PAR by more than 15%) or water either, and the aquactinic reflector doesn't look like anything special. If that hood is wired for T5's you might consider getting a couple of IceCap reflectors and running aquablue lamps to get you some extra PAR.
FastUno
New member
Yes, it comes standard with magnetic ballast & I did not upgrade to the electronic.
Those fixtures are out there & tested, seems like they will do the job. I will be here to report to everyone. Of paramount importance is my conscern for heat & after that it will be how the corals get along with their new lighting. Then we experiment with different bulbs for growth rates & looks. I really had my heart set on the 14K Hamiltons & if the XM happens to be too blue, then I will change them out.
Those fixtures are out there & tested, seems like they will do the job. I will be here to report to everyone. Of paramount importance is my conscern for heat & after that it will be how the corals get along with their new lighting. Then we experiment with different bulbs for growth rates & looks. I really had my heart set on the 14K Hamiltons & if the XM happens to be too blue, then I will change them out.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
I looked at that 53 PAR in the graph you linked and had a heart attack. The 150 watt DE's I use had 67 measured through a sheild and I think I have border line PAR.
I am going to throw some 14K 250 watt EVC retros in the halide hood and see how they look but I am leaning towards T5 or T6 for the new tank unless the 14K's really color things up.
I am going to throw some 14K 250 watt EVC retros in the halide hood and see how they look but I am leaning towards T5 or T6 for the new tank unless the 14K's really color things up.
FastUno
New member
And your using 10K.
Check out the Hamilton as compared to the XM, seems it's as you say borderline as well.
What is a good 14-15K bulb that gives a decent amount of pars? I think it was the Phoenix or AB that came out on top, right?
http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe....avelength=400&Maxwavelength=700&Submit=Submit
BTW, I have contemplated the individual reflectors. I even spoke to Tom at Aquactinic's about it.
Check out the Hamilton as compared to the XM, seems it's as you say borderline as well.
What is a good 14-15K bulb that gives a decent amount of pars? I think it was the Phoenix or AB that came out on top, right?
http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe....avelength=400&Maxwavelength=700&Submit=Submit
BTW, I have contemplated the individual reflectors. I even spoke to Tom at Aquactinic's about it.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
But pop them up using a Magnetic ballast. The Ice Cap doesn't drive them very bright. Check out the spike just below 420nm a 250 watt EVC 14K lamp has when ran on the EVC electronic ballast. Those should look sweet.
FastUno
New member
Grim, you have conducted par tests on MH bulbs, right?
What was the difference of pars taken from readings directly under the bulb, vs 6-8 inches lower? The difference should be the percentage gained...right?
I know it is a little tough to judge, because of the way the MH output disperses in water & absorbs pars the deeper the readings are taken. Lets say if we take a reading in mid tank with fixtures 6-8 inches above & then take another reading with fixtures direcly above the tank, how much of a difference would we get? I think it's somewhere in the order of 20-30%.
What was the difference of pars taken from readings directly under the bulb, vs 6-8 inches lower? The difference should be the percentage gained...right?
I know it is a little tough to judge, because of the way the MH output disperses in water & absorbs pars the deeper the readings are taken. Lets say if we take a reading in mid tank with fixtures 6-8 inches above & then take another reading with fixtures direcly above the tank, how much of a difference would we get? I think it's somewhere in the order of 20-30%.
Warnberg
New member
I got a pleasant surprise this week, I have tons of coraline growth everywhere. Question, is this a sign of proper lighting, good flow and proper water conditions. I am hoping that all this work over the last 8 weeks is starting to pay off and that my tank is ready for a few SPS frags.
If my calculations are correct I have about 680 watts over my tank now.
Thanks
If my calculations are correct I have about 680 watts over my tank now.
Thanks
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Warnberg said:
Yes.
What lighting do you have and how tall is the tank?
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Uno,
Uno
Every fixture will be a little different as far as light loss in air. Keeping the lights lower helps a lot. If you could have the lights 3" above the water with a sheild or six inches above without I would go without because you are also limiting your actinics with the glass. That is why I am going from DE to SE lamps on my fixture. There is just no way to mount actinics without having them behind the glass so I will just remove it.
Uno
Every fixture will be a little different as far as light loss in air. Keeping the lights lower helps a lot. If you could have the lights 3" above the water with a sheild or six inches above without I would go without because you are also limiting your actinics with the glass. That is why I am going from DE to SE lamps on my fixture. There is just no way to mount actinics without having them behind the glass so I will just remove it.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
GAD's, I thought you were talking about another tank. Didn't you just set this one up really recently?
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