Table Saw Blade? Cutting Acrylic?
- Thread starter flemingljr
- Start date
ray22
New member
Eric, I hope your tank crashes. It is not a hazard to turn around the blade on a saw. The teeth just spin in the opposite direction and make it easier to cut acrylic and not have to pay for an expensive blade. What are you talking about the ER? It sounds like you have some experience in that department. Just because you have two left thumbs doesnââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t mean you need to say everyone on this site cant work a power saw... lol , what a joke
gobygoby
Active member
a saw is not ment to run the blade backwards.....therefore its unsafe.
if the saw manufacturers wanted the blade to go in both directions, they would have made the motor spin both forward and reverse.
However, putting the blade on backwards may work, its not the proper way to make a cut and a warning should have accompanied your post.
I am sure most people in here are smart enough to know how to use a table saw....but not everyone uses the same judgment.
and comments like "I hope your tank crashes" are what drag this forum down.....
.....not comments that direct people in the poper way of doing things.
.02
Goby
if the saw manufacturers wanted the blade to go in both directions, they would have made the motor spin both forward and reverse.
However, putting the blade on backwards may work, its not the proper way to make a cut and a warning should have accompanied your post.
I am sure most people in here are smart enough to know how to use a table saw....but not everyone uses the same judgment.
and comments like "I hope your tank crashes" are what drag this forum down.....
.....not comments that direct people in the poper way of doing things.
.02
Goby
skyfireblaze
New member
Hey,
I don't own a table saw, and it's been well over 15 years or so since I last used one. So if Ray or anyone else who runs their saw with the blade in backwards would mind posting a picture I'd really appreciate it. I just can't understand how the blade would operate properly (safe or effective). I'd love to see how you guys are doing this.
I don't own a table saw, and it's been well over 15 years or so since I last used one. So if Ray or anyone else who runs their saw with the blade in backwards would mind posting a picture I'd really appreciate it. I just can't understand how the blade would operate properly (safe or effective). I'd love to see how you guys are doing this.
ray22
New member
The proper way. This is a diy forum. To be creative is what this forum is all about. Do they have a label on the back of a bag of calcium hydroxide (not for use with Kalk reactors) no they donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t. Someone was creative and figured a way to cheat the system and save money and add to their reef enjoyment. ( a blade being run backwards is not a hazard . can someone give me a good reason that it is a hazard . it is not . are you telling me because the blade is backwards that it is going to fly off and cut someone's arm off. oh I forgot I should put a warning on this reply. what ever . this is what is wrong with America . people with opinions like yours . do me a favor and go live in Canada . getting back to the topic. it is perfectly safe to turn the blade backyards and cut . it is an old trick to make it easier to cut . The manager Home Depot was the person that gave me the idea, and believe it or not there was no warning label on his advice. If we all thought like you this forum should not exist and we should just buy from the manufactures and read instructions and not share an easier way to do things. Wouldnââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t you agree?
ray22
New member
I am done with this thread. good luck cutting your acrylic .
I am done with this thread. good luck cutting your acrylic .
Warning...Dont listen to me. I am wrong. Please follow the manufactures instructions when operating any type of saw or hazardous machinery. Do not ever stray from what they have in their owners manual. Again warning doesnââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t try this at home or anywhere else for that matter. Thank you and happy reefing.
I am done with this thread. good luck cutting your acrylic .
Warning...Dont listen to me. I am wrong. Please follow the manufactures instructions when operating any type of saw or hazardous machinery. Do not ever stray from what they have in their owners manual. Again warning doesnââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t try this at home or anywhere else for that matter. Thank you and happy reefing.
ErikS
New member
Ouch - I'm wounded to the core :lol:
Using a tablesaw as it was designed amounts to having "two left thumbs" :lol: Yeah, okay.
Fact is running the blade backwards is neither safe nor necesssary. You saved all of about $2 - a cheap HSS ply blade runs about $8 & will work just fine for a few cuts.
FYI - got all ten thanks.....but maybe that's because I actually know how to use the saw correctly. But then power tools are funny that way....you can "get away" with using them incorrectly many times - often to the point where you begin to think it's fine......then it's BLAM - you're now a proud member of the nub club.
Using a tablesaw as it was designed amounts to having "two left thumbs" :lol: Yeah, okay.
Fact is running the blade backwards is neither safe nor necesssary. You saved all of about $2 - a cheap HSS ply blade runs about $8 & will work just fine for a few cuts.
FYI - got all ten thanks.....but maybe that's because I actually know how to use the saw correctly. But then power tools are funny that way....you can "get away" with using them incorrectly many times - often to the point where you begin to think it's fine......then it's BLAM - you're now a proud member of the nub club.
skyfireblaze
New member
Now this is good advice I can understand.
What I don't get is how when I politely ask for a picture so I can try to understand something, I get a friendly request that I move to Canada. At least I wasn't told to move up north and have my tank crash. That would have been rude.
I was genuinely interested in seeing how the blade was installed backwards, how the cut was made, and how it turned out. Can't say I'd ever try it, or suggest that anyone else try it, but I'd still be interested in seeing how you used the backwards blade.
That being said, at this point I hope everyone reading this thread follows Rays advice (as quoted above in this post). I have yet to see anything in the DIY forums that would suggest we not follow the instructions when using power tools. And make sure you wear eye protection too!
If Ray ever comes back and takes a look at this post --
Good Luck. Hope you and your tank are doing well.
Now, to really get back on topic - I understand the concensus to be a 60-80 tooth, carbide ATB or Triple Chip blade will work well.
gobygoby
Active member
I believe Rays last negatvie comments were aimed at me....
seems as though there is an issue with temper and criticism...
another post by Ray
Yes 60 -80 tooth, triple chip will work great. the bigger the motor on the saw will yield a smoother cut, however if possible you will get the cleanest edge if making a pass through a router after the table saw cut.
seems as though there is an issue with temper and criticism...
another post by Ray
Yes 60 -80 tooth, triple chip will work great. the bigger the motor on the saw will yield a smoother cut, however if possible you will get the cleanest edge if making a pass through a router after the table saw cut.
I have turned the blade around backwards on a circular saw to cut tin. It does work, but probably not the best way. That being said, I wouldn`t do that with my table saw. Rude comments should be left out of these forums. Just because we don`t all agree doesn`t me we have to be hatefull.
Roland Jacques
Premium Member
i agree Rude comments should be left out of these forums.
with that said, it i good at times to think outside of the box, try defferent things. that what we have allways done in this hobby. without that we would not have protien skimmers, needle wheels, down drafts, magnetic glass cleaners....
to be safe is even more important . mounting a blade backwards so that the back of the tooth hits the material IMO is really as safe as mounting the blade the "right way". it not like you are feeding it from the wrong side (That is suiside).
hey it all good, were here to learn things and share ideas. Now if i could only learn to spell.
with that said, it i good at times to think outside of the box, try defferent things. that what we have allways done in this hobby. without that we would not have protien skimmers, needle wheels, down drafts, magnetic glass cleaners....
to be safe is even more important . mounting a blade backwards so that the back of the tooth hits the material IMO is really as safe as mounting the blade the "right way". it not like you are feeding it from the wrong side (That is suiside).
hey it all good, were here to learn things and share ideas. Now if i could only learn to spell.
Reeftoker
In Memoriam
I just got done cutting up two sheet of 1/4 cast acrylic. sheets. I used a dewalt hollow ground plywood balde. I cut up both sheets with no problem nice smooth cuts 8.97 for the blade. I do agree that use your tools wisely and use the tool the way it was designed . You dont have to spend 50.00-100.00 on a blade to make good smooth cuts.
Hey; I do live in Canada, and it would please me if you would all stay home.:rollface: :rollface: :rollface:
I have used a fine toothed plywood blade for acrylic, and a carbide tipped blade when I am too lazy to change blades. Both work equally well.
A good thing to remember whichever blade you choose is to adjust the blade height so that it is not more than 1/4 inch higher than the material thickness that you are cutting. You will get a smooth cut everytime.
Chipping occurs when the blade exits the material an angle approaching 90 degrees.
I have used a fine toothed plywood blade for acrylic, and a carbide tipped blade when I am too lazy to change blades. Both work equally well.
A good thing to remember whichever blade you choose is to adjust the blade height so that it is not more than 1/4 inch higher than the material thickness that you are cutting. You will get a smooth cut everytime.
Chipping occurs when the blade exits the material an angle approaching 90 degrees.
stugray
Premium Member
LOL
"if the saw manufacturers wanted the blade to go in both directions, they would have made the motor spin both forward and reverse."
Clearly goby just cant picture what these people are proposing.
A table saw must ALWAYS turn the blade such that the teeth cut downwards as you feed the material in.
Turning the blade around would make it so that the teeth are STILL cutting in the downward direction, but using the BACK of the carbide teeth. This is NOT hazardous, it will just cut slower.
The suggestion of making the saw turn the opposite way is the most dangerous thought in the thread ( that WILL cause the material to jump up and hit you )
Now to help:
I use a Diablo fine tooth blade form HD. It cost me leass than $50.
After I cut the sheets ( slightly large ) on the table saw, I clean them up with a router and a laminate trim bit.
I use a good trick here. If you cut the pieces 1/4" larger than you want, I then offset each piece by 1/8 and clamp them together. Then I trim off the 'stickout' by running the laminate bit's bearing down the opposing piece. Then repeat on the other side.
Next offset the two pieces again ( in the opposite direction ) and trim again. Now you will have trimmed off 1/4 and the two pieces are identical.
Also remember another trick for building a tank ( or any other acrylic box ).
The tops & bottoms are cut oversize, and the edges do not need to be trimmed or even cleaned up.
Each end needs to be trimmed on both 'sides' & the 'top & bottom'.
The front & back panel only need to be trimmed on the top & bottom ( do these two before the ends, and use the front/back piece as the guide to trim the ends pieces ) this will make the front,back, & both ends exactly the same height ( very important ).
Now glue it all together leaving stick out to either end of the front & back and all around the top & bottom.
Trim with the same laminate cutting bit, and youll have a perfect box.
The first time or two, I tried to clean all four edges of all the pieces. This is a lot more work than required, and you must get the pieces to fit together perfectly. My new method is much easier & forgiving.
Stu
"if the saw manufacturers wanted the blade to go in both directions, they would have made the motor spin both forward and reverse."
Clearly goby just cant picture what these people are proposing.
A table saw must ALWAYS turn the blade such that the teeth cut downwards as you feed the material in.
Turning the blade around would make it so that the teeth are STILL cutting in the downward direction, but using the BACK of the carbide teeth. This is NOT hazardous, it will just cut slower.
The suggestion of making the saw turn the opposite way is the most dangerous thought in the thread ( that WILL cause the material to jump up and hit you )
Now to help:
I use a Diablo fine tooth blade form HD. It cost me leass than $50.
After I cut the sheets ( slightly large ) on the table saw, I clean them up with a router and a laminate trim bit.
I use a good trick here. If you cut the pieces 1/4" larger than you want, I then offset each piece by 1/8 and clamp them together. Then I trim off the 'stickout' by running the laminate bit's bearing down the opposing piece. Then repeat on the other side.
Next offset the two pieces again ( in the opposite direction ) and trim again. Now you will have trimmed off 1/4 and the two pieces are identical.
Also remember another trick for building a tank ( or any other acrylic box ).
The tops & bottoms are cut oversize, and the edges do not need to be trimmed or even cleaned up.
Each end needs to be trimmed on both 'sides' & the 'top & bottom'.
The front & back panel only need to be trimmed on the top & bottom ( do these two before the ends, and use the front/back piece as the guide to trim the ends pieces ) this will make the front,back, & both ends exactly the same height ( very important ).
Now glue it all together leaving stick out to either end of the front & back and all around the top & bottom.
Trim with the same laminate cutting bit, and youll have a perfect box.
The first time or two, I tried to clean all four edges of all the pieces. This is a lot more work than required, and you must get the pieces to fit together perfectly. My new method is much easier & forgiving.
Stu
gobygoby
Active member
Yes I can see clearly......
I wasnt saying that it couldnt or shouldnt be done, rather for someone who has limited knowledge with the material and or machinery, its best to use the tools how they are made to be used.
I have done my share of acylic work to know that its not necessary to turn the balde around in order to achieve a clean cut. I have used many different types of blades....some cheaper then others, and not one time have I had to seek an alternative way of cutting because of poor results. if the blade is so bad that it requires you to turn it around to prevent chipping...then you really need a new blade.
Nabber86
New member
But if a $20 saw blade from Home Depot placed backwards does the job as good and as safely as a $100 saw blade, why spend the extra money?
A am pretty sure that my $150 Home Depot table saw isnt really the the "best tool" for the job and probably wasnot made to cut plastic sheeting anyway.
A am pretty sure that my $150 Home Depot table saw isnt really the the "best tool" for the job and probably wasnot made to cut plastic sheeting anyway.
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