tabletop jointer
- Thread starter zeebies
- Start date
I assume you mean a bench top jointer. Don't not waste your money. Look for a used 6" at bare minimum. If you plan on getting into woodworking look for an 8" bare minimum. Benchtop jointers are junk. The beds are to short to straighten a board, the fences are flimsy. You dont have to spend a fortune but a real jointer of any brand like jet or delta should be affordable used.
Don
Don
Landsailor
New member
http://www.grizzly.com/products/6-x-46-Jointer/G0654 if you can't find one used.
However, craigslist is probably the way to go.
However, craigslist is probably the way to go.
Thanks for chiming in bongarone and peppie. Yes, I do have a planer and other tool goodies. Seems I've always been able to get around not having a jointer.
New projects are always a good excuse to get a new tool, right?
But... for now I think I'll try putting together the jig mentioned. For anyone interested, I'll get some 3/4 by 3/4 (1/8" thick) aluminum angle, cut a recess along the bottom of some mdf and screw in the angle. The bottom bearing of a flush-trimming bit will ride along the angle and hopefully give me a nice edge. 6 feet of the edging will set me back $10.
And I'd hate to waste $$ on a flimsy jointer.
Here's the build thread BTW:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2113842
New projects are always a good excuse to get a new tool, right?
But... for now I think I'll try putting together the jig mentioned. For anyone interested, I'll get some 3/4 by 3/4 (1/8" thick) aluminum angle, cut a recess along the bottom of some mdf and screw in the angle. The bottom bearing of a flush-trimming bit will ride along the angle and hopefully give me a nice edge. 6 feet of the edging will set me back $10.
And I'd hate to waste $$ on a flimsy jointer.
Here's the build thread BTW:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2113842
Nope. You will probably never find truely straight aluminum angle. Just a strip of mdf. Mdf is always straight on the long side. lay your rough stock on the mdf and afix with carpet tape or toggle clamps and rip the edge clean on your table saw or use the router if you feel the need to make more sawdust.
Or just buy the aircraft carrier.
Or just buy the aircraft carrier.
Attachments
I use my jointer 10x more than my planner. Neither compliment the other. Unless you are going to flatten a cupped or twisted board. Even then I would build a table sled for the planner.
If you are just using the joiner to dress the edge. They are invaluable.
Not many home shops have a 12'' joiner to use with their 12'' planner
Just my 2 cents
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
In most cases, the benchtop jointer will do more damage than good... Like the others have said, get at least a 6" with a decent size bed and a real fence. They are all over craigslist, folks need cash. I saw a MONSTER fowley belsaw planer the other day for $1000, working and fully maintained with extra knives, etc.
Ohhh and... don, I finally got that 3phase motor running on my DP. Pretty sweet to be able to go from a few RPMS to a few thousand at the twist of a knob with no belt changes
May put one on my little antique craftsman lathe.. Nothing like a benchtop wood lathe with a 1hp 3ph motor
Ohhh and... don, I finally got that 3phase motor running on my DP. Pretty sweet to be able to go from a few RPMS to a few thousand at the twist of a knob with no belt changes
May put one on my little antique craftsman lathe.. Nothing like a benchtop wood lathe with a 1hp 3ph motor
Ohhh and... don, I finally got that 3phase motor running on my DP. Pretty sweet to be able to go from a few RPMS to a few thousand at the twist of a knob with no belt changes
Very cool, that would be nice. Mine has lever on the side, you pull it back and forth to change the speeds from 400 to 3000.
Don
A planer sled may be a good option for the OP especially if he just needs the occasional facing. I dont agree that the planer and jointer sizing is tit for tat. Generally you would size a planer double the size of your jointer. Most any 6" jointer will face joint a 10" or 11" with a 12" planer and a tack ski. A 12" jointer will do 22" easily without the use of funky sleds and shims. People get to caught up in size when it comes to jointers. Length is certainly more important than width, shame the manufacturers wont make a long bed 6 or 8" jointers anymore. 7ft is about right for a decent jointer but you have to buy 12" to get that. Id go for a 8ft 8" any day over a 12. The way mills are speed drying stock now days, case hardening is taking the wide stock out of our workflow anyways.
Don
Thanks Bean and Don. Now I'm checking out the planer sled option.
The 5/4 stock that I'm working with is 7-9 inches wide. Perhaps I'll run the boards through the planer to get a good face, rip them to the widths that I need (aprox. 3" wide), run those through the planer on edge using a sled, resaw to get the thickness that I need, then do a final run through the planer.
Just a little worried about wobbly boards on edge going through the planer. But I guess that's where the sled comes in...
Wish I had a jointer. :sad2:
The 5/4 stock that I'm working with is 7-9 inches wide. Perhaps I'll run the boards through the planer to get a good face, rip them to the widths that I need (aprox. 3" wide), run those through the planer on edge using a sled, resaw to get the thickness that I need, then do a final run through the planer.
Just a little worried about wobbly boards on edge going through the planer. But I guess that's where the sled comes in...
Wish I had a jointer. :sad2:
The sled is not for the side of the board its for the face. You make a sled out of mdf. Set your board on it and add shims under the board on all the high spots and tack them with hotmelt glue. All you are trying to do is keep the board moving through the planer without wobbleing. Without the sled and shims the wood will just follow the twist.
The edges are jointed on the tablesaw on a similar sled after the face is done. The sled for the saw rides against the fence. The board overhangs the sled.
With 5/4 you wont need to resaw to get down to 3/4 and you wont want to because you will have to reface all over again.
The way wood is generally processed is that the board is passed across the jointer face down. That face is now flat so it goes against the jointer fence and the wood edge jointed. Then you move to the planer to surface the oposite face with the jointed face down on the planer table. Now you have one edge that is flat to ride on your table saw fence and flat faces to ride on your saw table.
If you were doing wide boards you remove the gaurd from your jointer and joint what you can. For example a 10" board on a 6" jointer. That would leave you with a 6" rabbet and 4" left un jointed. Set the board on a 1/4 tack board with the tack board in the rabbet and run through your planer. The flip the board remove the tack board and finish of the rabbeted face in the planer as normal.
Google planer sled and check youtube im sure you will find some videos.
Don
