I setup the following tank a couple of years ago and have really failed miserably in just about every aspect. I’ve got some things still alive on my rock and a bristle star still in there…but pretty much it has died out or gone dormant. I really want to figure this out and would appreciate some guidance.
I am looking at making the following changes, and wonder if I could get some guidance so that I don’t have a “Take 3†post a couple years from now.
First, I know they say it, but I finally started monitoring my temperature, and I am now adding a chiller to get my hot (~81 avg) and fluctuating (10 degrees) temperature under control. Is 75 degrees a good target?
I am also changing the flow/circulation that I have to try and get more churning and randomness to the current â€"œ I’m just adding a couple of Hydor Koralia Pump #1’s and removing the squid â€"œ which I don’t think helps in my 22†deep tank with the pump that I am using. I know I could keep it â€"œ but it is a small tank, real-estate is expensive and I can’t fit everything…
Lastly, I would like to drop my fluval canister, but could use some guidance…
This is a lot of stuff, so any guidance is appreciated.
Original Setup: Oceanic 35-gallon Hex
Lighting: 20†Dual Satellite 2X40w SNPQ w/ Lunar - Model #1012
(80watts total for 2.2 watts per gallon)
Protein Skimmer: Aquac Remora Hang-On (with Maxijet 1200 powerhead)
(295 gph, 20 watts)
Heater: Ebo-Jager 150W 13â€Â
Filtration: Fluval 304 w/ Nitrate Sponge, Chemi-Pure, Carbon and bio-ballz
(185 gph, 15 watts)
Circulation:
-Rio 2100 Powerhead in tank (692 gph, 37 watts)
-SCWD Squid Wavemaker with Rainbow Lifegard Quite One 1200 pump (296 gph, 25.5 watts)
Total in tank:
Turn over: 1468 gph: (988 direct and 480 from filtration)
Power: 97.5 continuous watts (skimmer, canister, flow)
Proposed New Setup: Oceanic 35-gallon Hex
(no change, for now)Lighting: 20†Dual Satellite 2X40w SNPQ w/ Lunar - Model #1012
(80watts total for 2.2 watts per gallon)
(I will convert to MH soon, but first, I think I need to get my water under control)
(no change)Protein Skimmer: Aquac Remora Hang-On (with Maxijet 1200 powerhead)
(295 gph, 20 watts)
(no change) Heater: Ebo-Jager 150W 13†(will now be controlled by chiller)
Chiller: (I started tracking temperature about a month ago and have seen a low of 75 and a high of 84 with an average of ~81 degrees in the house. I think this is my most critical issue…)
Prime-mini 1/15 hp chiller with 2 stage temp control using the Rio 2100 Powerhead (692 gph@0 head, 37 watts)
(?)Filtration: Fluval 304 w/ Nitrate Sponge, Chemi-Pure, and Carbon (185 gph, 15 watts)
I am running a small tank with no room for a refugium. I’ve been viewing the canister as a type of refugium, but wonder if I should just get rid of it? Am I better putting a basket of sorts on the top of the tank and putting a sack of nitrate sponge or chemi-pure in there and just get rid of the canister?
Circulation:
Hydor Koralia Water Circulation Pump #1 X 2
400 gph X 2 = 800 gph
3.5 watts X2 = 7 watts
Total in tank:
Turn over: 1787 gph (+319 ghph): (800 direct and 987 from skimmer/chiller)
Power: 27 (skimmer, flow) (-70.5 watts in the tank)
I am looking at making the following changes, and wonder if I could get some guidance so that I don’t have a “Take 3†post a couple years from now.
First, I know they say it, but I finally started monitoring my temperature, and I am now adding a chiller to get my hot (~81 avg) and fluctuating (10 degrees) temperature under control. Is 75 degrees a good target?
I am also changing the flow/circulation that I have to try and get more churning and randomness to the current â€"œ I’m just adding a couple of Hydor Koralia Pump #1’s and removing the squid â€"œ which I don’t think helps in my 22†deep tank with the pump that I am using. I know I could keep it â€"œ but it is a small tank, real-estate is expensive and I can’t fit everything…
Lastly, I would like to drop my fluval canister, but could use some guidance…
This is a lot of stuff, so any guidance is appreciated.
Original Setup: Oceanic 35-gallon Hex
Lighting: 20†Dual Satellite 2X40w SNPQ w/ Lunar - Model #1012
(80watts total for 2.2 watts per gallon)
Protein Skimmer: Aquac Remora Hang-On (with Maxijet 1200 powerhead)
(295 gph, 20 watts)
Heater: Ebo-Jager 150W 13â€Â
Filtration: Fluval 304 w/ Nitrate Sponge, Chemi-Pure, Carbon and bio-ballz
(185 gph, 15 watts)
Circulation:
-Rio 2100 Powerhead in tank (692 gph, 37 watts)
-SCWD Squid Wavemaker with Rainbow Lifegard Quite One 1200 pump (296 gph, 25.5 watts)
Total in tank:
Turn over: 1468 gph: (988 direct and 480 from filtration)
Power: 97.5 continuous watts (skimmer, canister, flow)
Proposed New Setup: Oceanic 35-gallon Hex
(no change, for now)Lighting: 20†Dual Satellite 2X40w SNPQ w/ Lunar - Model #1012
(80watts total for 2.2 watts per gallon)
(I will convert to MH soon, but first, I think I need to get my water under control)
(no change)Protein Skimmer: Aquac Remora Hang-On (with Maxijet 1200 powerhead)
(295 gph, 20 watts)
(no change) Heater: Ebo-Jager 150W 13†(will now be controlled by chiller)
Chiller: (I started tracking temperature about a month ago and have seen a low of 75 and a high of 84 with an average of ~81 degrees in the house. I think this is my most critical issue…)
Prime-mini 1/15 hp chiller with 2 stage temp control using the Rio 2100 Powerhead (692 gph@0 head, 37 watts)
(?)Filtration: Fluval 304 w/ Nitrate Sponge, Chemi-Pure, and Carbon (185 gph, 15 watts)
I am running a small tank with no room for a refugium. I’ve been viewing the canister as a type of refugium, but wonder if I should just get rid of it? Am I better putting a basket of sorts on the top of the tank and putting a sack of nitrate sponge or chemi-pure in there and just get rid of the canister?
Circulation:
Hydor Koralia Water Circulation Pump #1 X 2
400 gph X 2 = 800 gph
3.5 watts X2 = 7 watts
Total in tank:
Turn over: 1787 gph (+319 ghph): (800 direct and 987 from skimmer/chiller)
Power: 27 (skimmer, flow) (-70.5 watts in the tank)
