Tank 1 year old...why no coraline growth?
- Thread starter Tava176
- Start date
Tava176
New member
Wrassie86,
Using Instant Ocean.
llamart,
I do remember you from before. Thanks for commenting again. Much appreciated.
I will try and find a Mag test kit. I hear that it should be around 1250ppm - 1300ppm.
I was thinking of raising the Mag (if tests show that I need to) by using the Magnesium Sulfate recipe on this site.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/iss...il2004/chem.htm
What are your thoughts? People on here say they use these recipes with success. And really cheap too!
Using Instant Ocean.
llamart,
I do remember you from before. Thanks for commenting again. Much appreciated.
I will try and find a Mag test kit. I hear that it should be around 1250ppm - 1300ppm.
I was thinking of raising the Mag (if tests show that I need to) by using the Magnesium Sulfate recipe on this site.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/iss...il2004/chem.htm
What are your thoughts? People on here say they use these recipes with success. And really cheap too!
chrisguy
New member
Do you have an urchin or two (or more)?? Hitchhicker urchins eat coraline algae and can eat it faster than it can grow. I had too many urchins in my 120 which prevented the coraline from really getting going. Now that I removed a few I am starting to see both green and purple coraline on the glass and my LR is getting more purple.
llamart
New member
QUOTE]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6473289#post6473289 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Tava176
I will try and find a Mag test kit. I hear that it should be around 1250ppm - 1300ppm. I was thinking of raising the Mag (if tests show that I need to) by using the Magnesium Sulfate recipe on this site.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/iss...il2004/chem.htm
What are your thoughts? People on here say they use these recipes with success. And really cheap too! [/QUOTE]
I personally have never been one to use recipes and add lots of supplements so I wouldnââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t be able to give the best advice on this. I try to run my tank with the less is more philosophy, but before I create some debate that gets this thread off topic with that statement, let me add that I just donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t know what works best. That method just works best for me. Before I running my current tank with a calcium reactor, I used B-Ionic 2 part additive on my 45 cube and it worked awesome. It replenishes all trace elements CAL, ALK, MAG, keeps them stable, and you donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t need to add anything else. I personally think you would benefit using that system instead of getting different bottles of different stuff, which gets more confusing and probably more expensive. Plus I still keep some on the side just in case my CO2 tank runs out (I Live in the Sticks) and I cant get to a welding store within a couple of days. The stuff works good.
No I thought this was a very important point seeing I was brooding on my couch thinking "what is this guy talking about having a good ALK range between 2-3". If your tag didnââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t have the words biochemist, I wouldnââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t of bothered looking it up. I think we can all benefit by keeping an eye on that information.
I will try and find a Mag test kit. I hear that it should be around 1250ppm - 1300ppm. I was thinking of raising the Mag (if tests show that I need to) by using the Magnesium Sulfate recipe on this site.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/iss...il2004/chem.htm
What are your thoughts? People on here say they use these recipes with success. And really cheap too!
[/QUOTE] I personally have never been one to use recipes and add lots of supplements so I wouldnââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t be able to give the best advice on this. I try to run my tank with the less is more philosophy, but before I create some debate that gets this thread off topic with that statement, let me add that I just donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t know what works best. That method just works best for me. Before I running my current tank with a calcium reactor, I used B-Ionic 2 part additive on my 45 cube and it worked awesome. It replenishes all trace elements CAL, ALK, MAG, keeps them stable, and you donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t need to add anything else. I personally think you would benefit using that system instead of getting different bottles of different stuff, which gets more confusing and probably more expensive. Plus I still keep some on the side just in case my CO2 tank runs out (I Live in the Sticks) and I cant get to a welding store within a couple of days. The stuff works good.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6472271#post6472271 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SDguy
hehe..sorry...I meant that for the original poster; that units are always helpful.But thanks for supplying them yourself! :thumbsup:
No I thought this was a very important point seeing I was brooding on my couch thinking "what is this guy talking about having a good ALK range between 2-3". If your tag didnââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t have the words biochemist, I wouldnââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t of bothered looking it up. I think we can all benefit by keeping an eye on that information.
Cutiewitbooty
New member
I hope my coralline doesn't spread, i and dreading the day it starts to get on the glass, ahhhh. I'm a clean freak when it comes to my tank
Mariner
New member
Very good thinking to ask about an urchin Chrisguy!
I love how the most pertinent information eventually leaks out in threads like this. :lol: -- No reflection on you at all Tava176, it's just the nature of inquiry.
With calc/alk at proper levels for only a month AND an urchin in the tank AND unknown magnesium levels... the great missing coraline mystery has been solved!
Mariner
I've noticed some nutrients help with coraline. I had a really clean tank, then went BB, and no coraline for like two months... I also stopped turnin on the VHOS, however once I started feeding the tank it took of like wildfire... in under 3 mos all my starboard is almost covered. VHO lights make coraline grow like crazy also.
Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
To post that "nutrients" aid coralline growth is not accurate. However- there is magnesium in many fish foods. For example, nori and VibraGo/Saltwater Staple have a high Mg content. (Please re-read the link I posted earlier in this thread.)
High nutrients generally fuel nuisance algae growth.
Ummm... Maybe I missed something here..
If it grows on the glass, to the point it has to be scraped off, it would seem to me that the problem is "seeding" the live rock, with coraline, not necessarily a chemistry problem ( although I agree that great levels couldn't hurt ). Here's a cuople of suggestions...
When you scrape the coraline off the glass, leave the pumps and skimmer off for as long as you think safe (like ten to fifteen minutes) that'll give the bits time to settle into the pores of the rock. It may be that the coraline scrapings from the glass are being skimmed out before they can settle and spread.
If you can, get scrapings from another tank. There's more than one kind of coraline. The easiest way is to have a siphon tube next to the blade when scraping. It'll suck the coraline into what ever you are using at the other end of the tube. Take it home and do the turn off the pump and let it settle thing..
If you don't know anyone else with a tank, there was a guy on E-bay who would ship a small variety pack of flakes for around fifteen bucks.
You may be able to get it to grow faster than the urchin can munch..
Good luck..
If it grows on the glass, to the point it has to be scraped off, it would seem to me that the problem is "seeding" the live rock, with coraline, not necessarily a chemistry problem ( although I agree that great levels couldn't hurt ). Here's a cuople of suggestions...
When you scrape the coraline off the glass, leave the pumps and skimmer off for as long as you think safe (like ten to fifteen minutes) that'll give the bits time to settle into the pores of the rock. It may be that the coraline scrapings from the glass are being skimmed out before they can settle and spread.
If you can, get scrapings from another tank. There's more than one kind of coraline. The easiest way is to have a siphon tube next to the blade when scraping. It'll suck the coraline into what ever you are using at the other end of the tube. Take it home and do the turn off the pump and let it settle thing..
If you don't know anyone else with a tank, there was a guy on E-bay who would ship a small variety pack of flakes for around fifteen bucks.
You may be able to get it to grow faster than the urchin can munch..
Good luck..
Nathan
Premium Member
I'm surprised no one has mentioned PHOSPHATE as a possible and likely culprit.
You say that you get a brown haze on your glass every three days.
I think that you have issues with PHOSPHATE, especially if it is 0.1!
You can try running some iron-based phosphate removal media (best used in a upward-draft tube (aka phosphate reactor)).
Really, do try to reduce phosphate, and if you have a calcium reactor that could be adding phosphate to your tank. Mine does.
-Nathan
You say that you get a brown haze on your glass every three days.
I think that you have issues with PHOSPHATE, especially if it is 0.1!
You can try running some iron-based phosphate removal media (best used in a upward-draft tube (aka phosphate reactor)).
Really, do try to reduce phosphate, and if you have a calcium reactor that could be adding phosphate to your tank. Mine does.
-Nathan
DrBDC
Active member
I'm beginning to think that the Red Sea phosphate tests never test 0. I have that same problem, I was between 1 and 2. I've changed the phosban monthly, decreased feedings, increased skimming, no nuisance algaes at all, run carbon in a phosban reactor changed weekly. I am stuck at .1.
In testing kits, the only one I take at its word is the Salifert tests. Any others I always figure a range around the results. Does your Red sea kit change color before the 2nd bottle of drops is added? Mine does then after the 2nd drops it doesn't change. I'm not sure if that means anything since I don't know what is in each bottle so I'm not sure of the chemical reaction to determine. I get my tests at thereefstop.com but all of his suppliers are out of the phosphate tests from Salifert at this time.
In testing kits, the only one I take at its word is the Salifert tests. Any others I always figure a range around the results. Does your Red sea kit change color before the 2nd bottle of drops is added? Mine does then after the 2nd drops it doesn't change. I'm not sure if that means anything since I don't know what is in each bottle so I'm not sure of the chemical reaction to determine. I get my tests at thereefstop.com but all of his suppliers are out of the phosphate tests from Salifert at this time.
NoSchwag
Premium Member
Guys my mg/alk/ca levels stay at NSW and I have a very low nutrient tank plus I feed a lot. There is basically NO coralline on my starboard, only some on my overflows. I use IO salt. My lights are very bright, but there isn't any on the underside of the rocks like there should be.
Do a search for posts by "jb ny" with the terms "strontium" in it. I promise you will find what you are looking for.
Do a search for posts by "jb ny" with the terms "strontium" in it. I promise you will find what you are looking for.
