Tank and Coral issues

Not positive, but I don't think the photometers work correctly in ro/di. I would trust a properly calibrated Tds meter vs a p04 test kit. I have some Tds calibration fluid if u wanna try your meter.
 
Well I just changed out my do resin again and did another test and it read .03, wonder if it got exhausted so fast. Only made up 45 gallons plus top off of 20g in my reservoir.
 
I think you may be on the right track here Rob, at least the symptoms show like too much po4. There are different kinds of phosphate derivatives. Got all new filters after getting your message earlier. Interesting to see how it goes from here.

Talked to Sacramento suburban water today and was told even pools are experiencing strange algae outbreaks.
 
Some suggestions. 1. If you are carbon dosing and have cyano stop dosing carbon. It feeds the cyano for sure. 2. If you have a spare reactor and pump run gfo on your rodi top off water and water change water to remove phosphate from your water. Alternatively, run carbon if you think there are chloramines. 3. Extra carbon stages on the rodi prefilter and a second di stage makes a big difference. Only the first di stage gets exhausted, the second is a backup.
 
Running 2 carbon and 2 DI stages. 0 tds after first DI. The water people are coming out on Monday. Will keep everyone informed.
 
Buying new prefilters from air water ice and Carbon blocks this week 5 micron and the 1 micron what about buying the chloramine removal carbon block ?
Will the 1micron chloramine block get exhausted faster from speca pure ?

CATALYTIC CARBON CARTRIDGE from air water &ice and just replace the carbon since its granular?
How long will this type last.
 
Tank and Coral issues

When I purchased the filter kit from airwaterice the di resin came with the cartridge. I kept the cartridges when I exhausted the resin. I used those to fill up with catalytic carbon. If you only have 4 filter canister you can replace the 5 micron with the catalytic carbon. I added additional canisters in order to prevent the catalytic carbon from exhausting too quickly. I have a 5 sediment filter followed by small particle lignite carbon. This is the carbon that we use for the reef tank itself and I buy a bucket of it at a time. After it passes through this carbon the water goes to the catalytic carbon stage then 5micron carbon block to 1micron block then to the ro membranes. I replace carbon every 3 to 4 months. The ro membranes yearly and the di as needed based on the color change.
 
Fwiw I just transferred my 58 to a 70 gallan a few weeks ago and it had some cyano in it. I put 40 gallons of new water using my 5 stage ro/di system with not new filters or di and used old tank water to top off. Its been a few weeks and no cyano signs. I haven't put any sand in the tank either. Will update if I get any, but if it was in the water the 40 gallons probably would have fueled something.
 
Roseville HAD excellent water. I am well aware of it since I started this thread a couple of years ago.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2166128

There was a change in water source in January from the Folsom Lake to well water. I also started a thread earlier this year. Link on the roseville change on the thread.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2386537

The water in Roseville is still much cleaner compared to everywhere else and a simple 4 stage RODI unit still works fine in our area. I changed my setup to compensate for any changes in water quality. Cleaner water just means I don't have to change the filters often but the added stages ensures that I have consistent pristine RODI water.
 
I have a 5 stage system but I'm under the influence that there is good quality di resin and poor quality. They even have nuclear grade resin so with that said I change my filters as usual but my di resin I change out after 50 gallons of water made. I have the color changing kind but I notice only half changes color. Makes me think the water makes a path inside the resin no longer being as effective. MO only but I have sour smelling tap water and beautiful sps.
 
Still having issues here. I did speak to a local tank service company and was told they had to start bringing water in from there area to all their Carmichael customers. They actually found traces of copper in the source water. Going to start doing this myself. Not convenient but neither is coral loss.

I did replace all RODI filters and 2 canisters of DI resin were exhausted in the making of about 120 gallons of water.
 
i'm gonna chime in here and agree...there is definitely something odd going on. whether its water, bacterial, environmental...its frustrating!

out of the blue, a branch within a colony or tips will rtn. some colors are fine, others are turning brownish blah. my green dragon colony that was 6" diameter rtn'd within a week...tissue floating away with polyps fully extended AND colored up. the tiny specks that remained are now coming back.

i just hope that our sps can adapt to survive whatever it is :(
 
I did a 2 day blackout, and didn't really think about my fuge which is lit on a reverse cycle from midnight to 10am and the cyano made its way in there. This thing is frustrating.
 
My 4 stage carbon prefilter and 2 di resin does not sound so crazy right now. I have no issue here guys. I hope somebody find the actual cause of this thing.
 
I am also having a cyano problem. 3 months ago i thought I was the only one and was thinking my biopellets weren't doing the job. Swapped the biopellets with GFO, changed my DI resin, swapped out my old MH bulbs (about 3 months old), and did water changes every 2 weeks and then tested my phosphates and still got a .02 reading. Had a few sps colonies brown out or completely bleach. I will change out my rodi filters and see if that makes a difference.
 

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