tank contaminated

purza_00

New member
58g been running for 16 months. All normal tank parameters are ok. Double checked by lfs. Just added a DIY 20g long sump. Used acylic and pvc (1/2 inch water sprinkler type) from home depot. Used the GE silicone II window and doors as I've seen recommended. Two days after hooking it up xenia, fungia, and star polyps clamped up and started receding. Ammonia came up to about .25. I added a cannister filter with carbon only. Should've but didn't do a water change. No water mixed. Also lost a yellow tang, and about to lose a coral beauty. Bodies look sunken in (like starved) and fins ragged. Other fish include a royal gramma, flame blenny, and false percula. Also have 2 cleaner shrimp and a few snails/hermit crabs. All seem ok. Been fighting bryopsis or hair algae since forever. The only change recently was the addition of the sump. I probably didn't do a thorough cleaning of acylic and pvc. Any ideas of what I need to do to get rid of this problem? Will I have to tear down and try to disinfect live rock/sand also? I use R/O water from a grocery store machine.
 
WATER CHANGES FIRST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

after that check the levels and more water changes

GOOD LUCK!!! :)
 
IIRC you should use GE Silicone I -- not II. GE Silicone II has antifungal stuff in it (arsenic?). Another thing, I think there is amonia in the silicone until it cures. How long did you let it cure before you started using the sump? That is a possible source for the amonia that you now read in your tank. Disconnect that sump and get all your livestock out to a quarantine tank with good new saltwater, and monitor params fastidiously.

Jack
 
Polyfilter run in the system will help pull metals and chemicals that may be in the water. Water changes. I agree with Crumbletop: disconnecting the sump until you can get those parameters down is good advice. It's been a long time since I had chemistry, but I believe arsenic is a metal, and polyfilter is good at grabbing metals.

Polyfilter is resin-coated and stains according to what pollutant it has soaked up. You might also go to the Chemistry forum and ask Randy what to do.
 
Experienced the same thing with Silicone II, IT IS NOT reefsafe. Im not sure what is in it that causes the issue, chemists have verified that the contents on the tube are ok, but for whatever reason, this stuff causes trite and ammonia problems.
 
I have my sump disconnected. Will dismantle, clean, and reassemble later. Twenty gallons of new saltwater ready for the first of several water changes. Now that my softies are gone, I will cut back on light and work harder on reducing the algae. Gonna add some polyfilter and fresh carbon to the filter.
The silicone dried for over 4 days before adding water. Don't know what the tds are. No way of testing the ro/di water. I am probably gonna get a Optima ro/di with hand held tds meter as soon as I can get up the money.
 
good choice on the optima. i love mine.

as for the silicone, even letting it dry for monthes still will not work as it has an anti mildew agent in it and that is what causes the problems.
 
Since your tank was fine for 16 months, I think you'll be okay using water as you have been. The main problem was caused by the new sump. Keeping algae in check is another matter -- RO/DI can help, as can good feeding habits, photoperiods, and a good skimmer. Keep in mind that whenever you make any change, the tank will adjust for a period of time until it reaches a new equilibrium. Check the phosphate level of your current water, and also of your tank. If the phosphate level in your source water is fine and high in the tank, then you are likely introducing phosphates via food. RO/DI won't help you much in this instance...

Jack
 
Disconnecting the sump and changing out 17 gals of water has stabilized the tank. Coral Beauty looks horrific,but is swimming fine. Yellow star polyps have opened up. Have some more water mixing and will take the silicone II out and replace it with Perfecto Aquarium sealant. Thanks for the advice.
 
Besides the silicone, check that the pipe (sprinkler type) is really PVC, the black one is polyethylene or polyvynil chloride. For sprinklers no FDA grade has to be met.
 
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