Tank is in a funk, need some ideas.....

rovster

New member
It definitely hurts my pride to have to ask for help here, but I'm all out of ideas. I've been keeping SPS for a couple years now and I've had some great success and consider myself to be at least somewhat knowledgeable on the subject. Anyhow, my tank is in a really weird funk right now and its time to ask for some help. I appreciate any help and suggestions I can get as I am starting to really get frustrated. I apologize in advance for the long post, but I figure the more info I can give, the better the advice I might get.

Some current stats:
-Tank is about 130 gallons total volume, SPS frag dominant
-Fuge with rock and chaeto (chaeto growing well)
-Using RO with Chloramine kit, 0 TDS ( I test with a hand held meter when I start and just before I finish making water.
-3 Radion Pros
-SRO XP2000 Skimmer
-3 MP40s
-Apex and BRS dosers

-SG 35PPT, digital and handheld refractometers, pinpoint solution
-Cal 450 (Salifert)
-Alk 7.7 (Hanna)
-Mag 1390ish (Salifert)
-Phos 0.07 (Hanna ULR) (More to come on this later)
-NO3 0 (Salifert)
-K+ >400 (Red Sea)


OK so a little history. I set up the tank about 6 months ago. I used mostly Dry rock that was cleaned and cured for over a year (long story)and added rock from my other tank and a friends tank to seed. I slowly started adding frags from my other tank. As they did well I added more. When I felt things were going well I purchased a large online order of frags and "stocked" my tank. For 2-3 months things were going spectacular. Polyp extension was ridiculous and growth and color was good to great. I did have some cyano and some snot looking algae (mild form of dino?) but it never got out of control and I just attributed it to "new tank syndrome". It was slowly going away so I was not worried and did nothing to try and combat it.

My smaller tank experienced a crash via bacteria bloom (went cloudy) and I transfered a few corals from that tank to try and save them. Well, 2 weeks later my current tank crashed (went cloudy) and I lost 90% of my Acros over the span of one weekend. All montis, LPS, nem, and zoas survived. This was 3 months ago.

Anyway, I ramped up the the water changes and after 4-6 weeks things started to stabilize. The acros that survived were starting to color up again, polyp extension was almost back to ridiculous, and a buddy gave me a couple of tester frags. I also added some more fish so my feeding went up from where it was. The tester frags were doing great, basing out and getting better color than in my buddies tank so I took that as a sign that things were on the up and up.

So I got another large online order basically replacing a lot of the frags I had lost. 2 weeks before I got my order I started to notice a few things not looking as good as they were, but it was not bad so I just made a mental note and kept an eye on things. The week before I got my frags a couple of corals started looking a little too much like they did before the last crash. To be safe, and anticipating another bacterial problem I decided to start Prodibio to counteract any bacterial imbalance and some of the corals were darkening. When I got my order of frags they came in a little bleached so I turned down my lights from 65% to 45% so I wouldn't shock them. Over the next few weeks, the new frags that came in started to regain some color and my existing corals continued to decline. Some look OK, most look like crap. Nothing has died to this day, but they look like they are on their way.

When I started Prodibio, they warn against GFO use so cut back on it but did not eliminate it. As my corals started to decline my Alk started to increase so I started to play with my dosers to get it dialed in. It never fluctuated more than 0.3-0.5. A few weeks into Prodibio, I did notice that the cyano and snot was improving. At the time my Alk was at 8.5. I started to notice a lot of burnt tips. Although Prodibio use is not associated with Alk burn, I am familear with Alk burn from previous experience with carbon dosing so I thought it would be safe to bring my Alk down slowly to where its at now.

I did have one day where I accidentally left my Cal doser on and I did get a huge cal spike to 500+. That was 3 weeks ago and Cal normalized within a few days and for 2 weeks Alk and Cal have been stable. I also noticed that my Phos has increased from 0.04 to about 0.08, but not I've got it down to around 0.06-0.07 by incresing my GFO.

Below are a few of my general observations.
-Zoas look amazing, something I have not experienced in a long time.
-Favias look very good
-Hammer is retracted, looks irritated, and looks slightly bleached
-Birds nest have STN, and look irritated
-Cyphastreas look good
-Setosa has a deep rich color
-Encrusting montis have polyps retracted and overall look bad. Base color is mostly gone
-Most acros have lost their luster. Most have lost most if not all polyp extension. They have darkened substantially and overall look irritated, like something in the water is aggravating them. They look like there is either too many nutrients in the water or they are not getting enough light. I'm up to about 60% on my lights which is almost where I was when things looked amazing. Acros have almost a bluish greyish sheen to them, and they have lost most if not all their "glow". They do not glow under the blue LEDs at all or the ones that still do have suffered significantly. This has been going on for weeks. Some are showing STN, but almost all of it is from the tips. I am not really seeing base recession at all.

When I got the high (for my tank) phos reading I did cut back on the feeding and put the tank on a diet. Nitrate never read anything, always 0.

I am running carbon but not much. I change it every 2-3 weeks and its in a bag. The sump has a good but of slime and some cyano, but every sump I've seen looks like that. I have to clean the glass maybe 1-2 times per week. I have noticed that since starting the Prodibio, my skimmate has gone from a deep dark green to more of a blackish green but its still watery.

Another thing worth noting that I did switch from RSCP to IO after the crash because I was ramping up the water changes, the RSCP just has too much stuff in it and I didn't want to drive up my levels too much. It is worth mentioning that did go through a month long period after I had been on the IO for a while where things were looking good and improving.

I am planning a huge water change for tomorrow, 40% or so. I normally do 10-15% weekly. My thinking is to try and "reset" things a bit. That said today I'm seeing even more tip burn. Its subtle but there.

I apologize for the long post but I am at a loss. My corals look like my tank is a nutrient sink, my test kits tell me otherwise, film algae is minimal and there is not a spec of hair algae. Brown snot is there but minimal. I don't know what to do. Part of me just wants to ignore the tank and just let things go and run their course. The other part of me tells me that my corals are not happy and are asking for a postive change so they can recover. I have stopped all supplemets as of 1-2 weeks ago (Pohls, AcroPower, CoralVit).

I'm lost....:sad2:
 
Make a cliff notes version of that and I think you'll get more help, I know the details help but when I saw a long post like that I never read them
 
LOL. Cliff notes.


1. New tank looks amazing
2. Crashes when introduce "infected corals"
3. 6 Weeks later looking good again
4. Slow decline, corals darkening, less polyp extension.
5. Start Prodibio, lots of cyano and brown snot gone, no algae
6. Corals continue to decline, dark and ragged, lots of tip burn, no base recession
7. Have put tank on diet, no improvement.
8. Notice increase in phos, increase GFO, levels improving but corals continue to decline.

Help.....:D

PS, I have checked for stray voltage before anyone asks. Forgot that detail, LOL!
 
AEFW? No QT...grab some struggling frags and dip 'em to check. Red bugs? I know u have non-SPS affected too, but those may be incidental casualties. I think u should do a dip.

Another guess...new tank essentially --is NO3 too low? Maybe add a pinch of Sodium Nitrate and see if it helps? Do you see a slight rebound after a 20% water change?
 
I am a long, long way from an expert but if it was me I would try and get some measurable nitrate, say 2.0 or so, and then verify all testing equipment. I had corals "drying out" on there flesh and I verified everything and found my calibration fluid had gone bad for my refractometer and I had zero iodine. Keep hearing "reef tanks don't use iodine" but it was 0. I had never tested for that or K before. So in short... verify test, balance your NO3 and PO4, and test what you didn't if all else is good. Just spitballing some ideas from my own trip.
 
AEFW? No QT...grab some struggling frags and dip 'em to check. Red bugs? I know u have non-SPS affected too, but those may be incidental casualties. I think u should do a dip.

Another guess...new tank essentially --is NO3 too low? Maybe add a pinch of Sodium Nitrate and see if it helps? Do you see a slight rebound after a 20% water change?

Not pests. I have very intimate experience with AEFW and Redbugs, have been through both several times. But I did remove some suspect pieces and dipped them. Nothing. I also baste them frequently and nothing comes off. The appearance of the coral SCREAMS a water quality/parameter/irritant issue. I thought about burn from increased GFO but the problem was there before.

Funny you mention the nitrate thing. A while ago I was contemplating dosing nitrate to help bring down phosphate. The thing is my corals do not have that "starved" look. Actually they remind me of when I had a nitrate spike in my previous tank. I have used 2 different nitrate kits and they have been consistent. I always assumed the nitrate was being tied up by the cyano, chaeto, slime, etc. For a while I was dosing lots of AA in an attempt to increase it but no improvement. After the crash my nitrate did go up to around 2 but it came back down shortly after. Thanks for the input...
 
I am a long, long way from an expert but if it was me I would try and get some measurable nitrate, say 2.0 or so, and then verify all testing equipment. I had corals "drying out" on there flesh and I verified everything and found my calibration fluid had gone bad for my refractometer and I had zero iodine. Keep hearing "reef tanks don't use iodine" but it was 0. I had never tested for that or K before. So in short... verify test, balance your NO3 and PO4, and test what you didn't if all else is good. Just spitballing some ideas from my own trip.


My previous tank did great with nitrate 2-5. This tank for some reason never had a nitrate reading. Crystal clear on Salifert. I thought about the Iodine but cant imagine it would have such an impact. Maybe I should look into getting a kit. I was thinking about having a friend check SG, although I have calibrated both my refractometer and my digital meter with both calibration solution AND RO, and they are very close to eachother, not off enough where I would think that would be a problem. I will double check with my friend though so thanks.
 
Have you considered sending a water sample to Triton? I was experiencing some weird issues in my sps tank but all parameters were always inline and stable. Sent in a water sample and found out there was a high level of copper present. You might find something you weren't expecting.
 
I have already been looking into that. I guess it would give me a good baseline and snapshot of how the water is. Great idea. I'll try and get some pics up later......
 
I had 1 tank crashed and a semi tank crash recently and all of them are related to my alkalinity. The first crashed was all my fault. All my sps were growing well with great color and then i read about using kalk to raise my ph up. My ph is always in the low range (7.8 ~ 8) since I am using a carx reactor. Of course I overdosed my tank with kalk and my alk went up to 12dkh from between 7 and 7.5dkh. All my sps had the symptoms you have above and eventually all went to the bone yard.

The semi tank crash recently was from an kinked co2 tubing line which cause my alk to dip down below 6dkh. I lost a few frags and colonies but the rest are recovering. Anyway I changed my salt mix from Oceanic to Red Sea Pro and added carbon in a bag in the sump and things are getting better. I think I got some bad batches of Oceanic salt mixes. The burned tips on your acros are likely caused by high alk rather than pests. Do a large water change if you want to start all over but I would do just a regular water change (10% for my tank) to minimize the change in your tank parameters. I hope this helps.

And for vette.tech here are my cliff notes :)
1. co2 tubing clogged so low alk
2. change salt mix (suspecting bad batches)
3. added carbon (bacteria infections? and chemical warfare since it's a mixed reef)
4. stn stopped, color is back, pe is back
 
How much water is io and how much rscp is remaining in your system approximately?

I can't even fathom a guess. I have been off RSCP for a few months. One of the waterchanges was 50% and been doing 10-15% weekly.
 
I had 1 tank crashed and a semi tank crash recently and all of them are related to my alkalinity. The first crashed was all my fault. All my sps were growing well with great color and then i read about using kalk to raise my ph up. My ph is always in the low range (7.8 ~ 8) since I am using a carx reactor. Of course I overdosed my tank with kalk and my alk went up to 12dkh from between 7 and 7.5dkh. All my sps had the symptoms you have above and eventually all went to the bone yard.

The semi tank crash recently was from an kinked co2 tubing line which cause my alk to dip down below 6dkh. I lost a few frags and colonies but the rest are recovering. Anyway I changed my salt mix from Oceanic to Red Sea Pro and added carbon in a bag in the sump and things are getting better. I think I got some bad batches of Oceanic salt mixes. The burned tips on your acros are likely caused by high alk rather than pests. Do a large water change if you want to start all over but I would do just a regular water change (10% for my tank) to minimize the change in your tank parameters. I hope this helps.

And for vette.tech here are my cliff notes :)
1. co2 tubing clogged so low alk
2. change salt mix (suspecting bad batches)
3. added carbon (bacteria infections? and chemical warfare since it's a mixed reef)
4. stn stopped, color is back, pe is back

I check my alk every day or every other day and its been steady. No spikes and no major dips. Highest it got was around 8.5 and lowest was 7.5, but that has been over the course of a few months and it hasn't been erratic. Its been a slow deliberate change.
 
I can't even fathom a guess. I have been off RSCP for a few months. One of the waterchanges was 50% and been doing 10-15% weekly.


Gotcha. Just curious as I was having burnt tip issues with Red Sea blue bucket that completely went away with a switch to IO. This decision was largely made after seeing triton results on fresh made blue bucket Red Sea salt. I wish I had an obvious solution for you, as you've come across as nothing but helpful on this forum.

Good luck!
 
Back to the Nitrate "deficit" as a possible issue. I had a similar funk for almost a year and rebound was exactly timed with adding Sodium NO3. Anecdotal sample of 1 person, but it might be worth buying some online (I found it on amazon pretty easily) and adding a couple teaspoons. PM me if it works...would love to hear some success here.

I has a hard time getting NO3 up with overfeeding. I had to add the chemical directly.
 
check all your equipment, make sure nothing is rusting out or corroding. I went through with what you are describing on a frags system. It was driving me nuts and had me doubting my reefing skills, just couldn't figure out what was wrong. Tried dosing stuff, not dosing stuff, switched two parts, even went and upgraded the lights that worked fine on the previous set up.
I ended up pulling out a frag rack to toss out some corals and wash/ scrape the algae off the rack. Looked down on the sand and there was a crusty corroded penny. Kid was taping pennies to nerf darts, thinking they go faster.
Ended up running Seachem Cuprisorb for a couple months and everything is back to normal, except the new lights are jamming

just a thought
 
I see that you mentioned chloramines as part of your RODI unit. In my experience, the chloramines filters (catalytic carbon filter and the carbon block) do not last very long. Not nearly as long as advertised. For example, I run approximately 1000 gallons (total of waste and rodi water) through my rodi unit before these need replaced, and the chloramine level in my water is only 1.5 ppb coming into the house. I used to dive myself crazy trying to figure out why water changes weren't helping when my tank started to show signs of stress, and it was because it was the quality of the new saltwater (and top off water) causing the problem. Ultimately, when I changed the chloramines filters in my rodi unit, the tank bounced back right away. Now, when I see my monti caps (my canary in a coal mine corals) starting to fade a little and perhaps a small patch of cyano forming, I know it's time to replace the chloramines filters. I know this isn't the most scientific approach, but I think we all know when we see corals that just don't "look right" to our eyes because we stare at them so much everyday, and when we are on the verge of a much bigger problem.

In my experience, I've teetered on the verge of tank crashes when my alkalinity swung too quickly, when nutrients were too low, and when something needed replaced in my rodi unit. Fortunately, I have not had the pleasure of dealing with pests, so I can't chime in on that.
 
I'd probably guess the nitrates as mentioned before or perhaps your calcium is a tad too high, I like running mine at 420 when my KH is around 7-8
 
I see that you mentioned chloramines as part of your RODI unit. In my experience, the chloramines filters (catalytic carbon filter and the carbon block) do not last very long. Not nearly as long as advertised. For example, I run approximately 1000 gallons (total of waste and rodi water) through my rodi unit before these need replaced, and the chloramine level in my water is only 1.5 ppb coming into the house. I used to dive myself crazy trying to figure out why water changes weren't helping when my tank started to show signs of stress, and it was because it was the quality of the new saltwater (and top off water) causing the problem. Ultimately, when I changed the chloramines filters in my rodi unit, the tank bounced back right away. Now, when I see my monti caps (my canary in a coal mine corals) starting to fade a little and perhaps a small patch of cyano forming, I know it's time to replace the chloramines filters. I know this isn't the most scientific approach, but I think we all know when we see corals that just don't "look right" to our eyes because we stare at them so much everyday, and when we are on the verge of a much bigger problem.

In my experience, I've teetered on the verge of tank crashes when my alkalinity swung too quickly, when nutrients were too low, and when something needed replaced in my rodi unit. Fortunately, I have not had the pleasure of dealing with pests, so I can't chime in on that.
That's one of those things that's floating in the back of my mind. Can you get a 0 TDS reading if chloramine or ammonia is making it through? My filters are about 3 months old and I always check the water with a handheld meter both at the beginning and end of the water making session.
 
Back
Top