Tank mate suggustions

mth1993

New member
My 13 year old son has a 120 FOWLR. Currently he has the following in the tank. Full grown Fimbriated (yellow headed) eel, 2 large blue damsels 4-5", medium sized silver scat (damsels and scat have been in the tank about 1.5 years). The eel has been in the tank about 45 days and seems like a wimp. One of the damsels frequently is picking on it. The damsel has been doing this since day one and has a few bit marks on it but will not stop.

The tank has a lot of rock and bear bottom.

He wants to add a some more livestock to the tank. Any suggestions would be appreciated? Also there is no cleanup crew, ideas there would also be great.
 
The issue would be that you need something big enough to not get eaten by the eel, but not "nippy" in the sense that it can injure the eel (triggers, some puffers, etc.). Personally, I've kept dogface puffers with morays and haven't had problems. That being said, haven't kept a puffer with a G. fimbriatus.
 
I think once the eel is established, it won't be safe with fish. Would you consider another eel with it?
 
I'd be looking more toward a trigger myself, but choose wisely, do research before you buy. Triggers vary widely in temperment. Maybe a medium Niger Trigger, or a Huma Huma. Puffers are cool too. They can be very personable fish, but like the trigger, some puffers are much more agressive than others. Given enough rockwork they shouldn't have problems. Just rearange all the rocks when you add your new fish to force them all to establish a new territory. Lowers agressive behaviors. I would pass on the angler. They are very cool fish, but they will eat anything that strays too close.
 
The text below is rom "moray eel FAQs" from wetwebmedia. Bold highlighting is mine. I expect a fimbriated may attack fish that won't fit in its mouth. Not a fish safe eel, IMO. If you want a community tank, I'd get rid of the eel, and carefully research compatibility of suitable-sized fish for that tank. I find the biggest challenge in keeping FOWLR tanks is selecting compatible species. This type of piscivorous eel, IME, will eventually go after your fish.

FAQs about Morays Eel Compatibility 1

Taming or Training Aggressive Eel. G. fimbriatus attacking wrasse - 26 Feb 2007 Please help…I have a 24" Fimbriated moray in a 90 gallon tank with An 8" lunare wrasse and a 3" puffer. All the levels are good, nitrates are a bit high 80 ppm, but nothing crazy considering the diet of the fish. <Nitrates are too high, indeed. Read and think about a refugium or get a better skimmer.> Anyway, the problem is that there isn't a lot of info out there on fish psychology. The eel is extremely aggressive, he has bitten me before and he has a death wish for my beloved wrasse. <Watch out. Those moray eel bites can be dangerous due to secondary infections.> Granted the wrasse is very antagonistic to the eel, swimming up to the eels face with his hackles raised or swimming quick circles around the eels head. The eel has attacked the fish and severely injured him twice before, and I nursed him back. The LFS says the wrasse is the natural prey item, size and shape wise, for the eel and so the eel will never leave him alone, because there are some fish the eel won't take a second look at. For instance the puffer, the eel never even looks at, or a tang or even an engineer goby, the eel seems to be friends with, the engineer goby that would be a perfect meal for him. Question, can the eel be taught or trained or coerced into leaving the wrasse alone? <No. There is no guarantee any fish below 12 inches is safe with your eel at all in the long run, even the puffer. Trying to swallow a puffer may even result in a dead moray eel.> Is the wrasse initiating the attacks by his behaviour, could it be something personal? <It's probably considered food by the moray, might smell tasty, I don't think that can be called personal.> Why does the eel, which eats ten silversides every other day, insist on wanting to eat the wrasse? <It's in their nature. Some are peaceful and well fed for years and kill every other tank inhabitant within days> Is there any modification to the tank that could be made to house but keep separated the eel from the wrasse? <A perforated acrylic separator could be used, but they don't look nice and will drastically decrease swimming space, and thus could only be a temporary solution. I'd rather set up a second tank for the moray. If you connect the two tanks you'd also have a much larger volume of water and life rock and could get rid of those nitrates. In case you want to do that, be sure to research and read a lot at WetWebMedia and in books.> They have grown from a couple of inches to their current size together and they are my pets. I would hate to loose them, but I am at a loss for things to try to reduce the aggression. One of your articles mentioned putting the mean fish in a small tank for a couple days. Would that approach be of any use here? <You'd probably only stress the moray eel.> Does the eel want to eat him or just injure him? <Probably eat.> The attacks always happen at night, if I used a light source at night also would the eel be at a disadvantage? <Possible, but 24/7 light will not be appreciated by your fish at all.> Any help would be greatly appreciated. Ivy. <Hope I could help. Cheers, Marco>
 
The text below is from "moray eel FAQs" from wetwebmedia. Bold highlighting is mine. I expect a fimbriated may attack fish that won't fit in its mouth. Not a fish safe eel, IMO. If you want a community tank, I'd get rid of the eel, and carefully research compatibility of suitable-sized fish for that tank. I find the biggest challenge in keeping FOWLR tanks is selecting compatible species. This type of piscivorous eel, IME, will eventually go after your fish. Your tank is not big enough for both this eel and fish that *may* be big enough not to be threatened,

FAQs about Morays Eel Compatibility 1

Taming or Training Aggressive Eel. G. fimbriatus attacking wrasse - 26 Feb 2007 Please help…I have a 24" Fimbriated moray in a 90 gallon tank with An 8" lunare wrasse and a 3" puffer. All the levels are good, nitrates are a bit high 80 ppm, but nothing crazy considering the diet of the fish. <Nitrates are too high, indeed. Read and think about a refugium or get a better skimmer.> Anyway, the problem is that there isn't a lot of info out there on fish psychology. The eel is extremely aggressive, he has bitten me before and he has a death wish for my beloved wrasse. <Watch out. Those moray eel bites can be dangerous due to secondary infections.> Granted the wrasse is very antagonistic to the eel, swimming up to the eels face with his hackles raised or swimming quick circles around the eels head. The eel has attacked the fish and severely injured him twice before, and I nursed him back. The LFS says the wrasse is the natural prey item, size and shape wise, for the eel and so the eel will never leave him alone, because there are some fish the eel won't take a second look at. For instance the puffer, the eel never even looks at, or a tang or even an engineer goby, the eel seems to be friends with, the engineer goby that would be a perfect meal for him. Question, can the eel be taught or trained or coerced into leaving the wrasse alone? <No. There is no guarantee any fish below 12 inches is safe with your eel at all in the long run, even the puffer. Trying to swallow a puffer may even result in a dead moray eel.> Is the wrasse initiating the attacks by his behaviour, could it be something personal? <It's probably considered food by the moray, might smell tasty, I don't think that can be called personal.> Why does the eel, which eats ten silversides every other day, insist on wanting to eat the wrasse? <It's in their nature. Some are peaceful and well fed for years and kill every other tank inhabitant within days> Is there any modification to the tank that could be made to house but keep separated the eel from the wrasse? <A perforated acrylic separator could be used, but they don't look nice and will drastically decrease swimming space, and thus could only be a temporary solution. I'd rather set up a second tank for the moray. If you connect the two tanks you'd also have a much larger volume of water and life rock and could get rid of those nitrates. In case you want to do that, be sure to research and read a lot at WetWebMedia and in books.> They have grown from a couple of inches to their current size together and they are my pets. I would hate to loose them, but I am at a loss for things to try to reduce the aggression. One of your articles mentioned putting the mean fish in a small tank for a couple days. Would that approach be of any use here? <You'd probably only stress the moray eel.> Does the eel want to eat him or just injure him? <Probably eat.> The attacks always happen at night, if I used a light source at night also would the eel be at a disadvantage? <Possible, but 24/7 light will not be appreciated by your fish at all.> Any help would be greatly appreciated. Ivy. <Hope I could help. Cheers, Marco>
 
Thank you for the reply's. I had not thought of another eel. I have done a lot of reading on that idea since it was suggested but there does not seem to be any consensus on what would be a good eel tank mate for a fimb. Ideas?

Also, my son likes the idea of a trigger or puffer. He understands his choice is limited to one of the three. Likely the Niger or dogface.
 
Unfortunatly you have an eel that eats fish. Putting fish in with it is going to be hit or mis thats probably why not many people are making suggestions. You can try something like a trigger but there is no way of telling whether your eel will see it as a meal. Another similar sized eel would be your best bet.
 
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