tank not flush with stand?

SeeCrabRun

New member
The plastic bottom of my tank doesn't make contact on all sides with my DIY stand. What should I do? I was so very careful and yet the whole thing still turned out bad

Should I try to sand out whatever bumps are there making it uneven? I feel like if I do that I'll just end up making it uneven by oversanding by accident.

Should I put a high density foam? Or Styrofoam?

Should I sand it some and then put a solid wood top?

Please help! I've ended up spending a good $300 on this project already and so I can't afford to scrap it. (I ended up having to buy a couple power tools because it became obvious I physically couldn't do it all manually)
 
Can you post some pics of your stand / issue? If the tank isn't sitting on the stand correctly when you fill it with water it will put unnecessary strain on the glass/tank and may fail.
Depending on how bad the gaps are you might just have to cut your losses and re-start.
 
I also usually place a 1/2" piece of ply on top of the DYI stand. I had gaps in my first stand also due to me working on the stand too long, wood drying/warping. I set the tank on top of it empty for a few weeks and it leveled off. Wood moves under weight.
 
+1
What to do depends on exactly what is wrong. I had a gap between my tank and my carefully constructed stand, and when I checked it turned out that it was the tank that wasn't flat :uhoh3:
 
I think my corner pieces are slightly higher than my front pieces.
 

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I think my corner pieces are slightly higher than my front pieces.

How about an IN FOCUS pic of the corners? Sorry about the caps but really blurry pics don't help.

If the side pieces are higher that the front/back can't you feel the difference as you rub along the front to side connection?

To fix this find a woodworker friend and have them plane down the side. Should only take a couple of swipes with a sharp plane.
 
My tank builder told me that for framed tank, the most important part of the stand are the corners. They have to be leveled. Most of the weight is channeled to the four legs. The front and back headers should be very slightly curved downward. You should be able to slide couple of pieces of papers underneath.

If you have a small gap in the center or back, it should not be a concern.

Like many others, my frame was not perfect. I put 3/4" plywood top, and shimmed between the frame and the plywood, until I got it as accurate as it could be. I spent countless hours doing just this task, until I was satisfied.

There are few guys here who are very knowledgeable about frame construction. I am curious to hear what they think.
 
XPS can help shim too.
I have a sheet of 1/4" minicell under my 200 to make sure there is no point loading.
 
Here is the tank on the plywood on the stand. The gaping is on the front and back, same area. Highest in the middle but flush on either side for the first 4 inches.
 

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If the gap is always in the middle of the stand - you are fine. Most of the weight would be on the corners of the tank, and it should even out even more under weight/time after you add water to it.
 
Here is the tank on the plywood on the stand. The gaping is on the front and back, same area. Highest in the middle but flush on either side for the first 4 inches.

Fill this gap with long pieces of flat hardwood. If you can't find something that thin, sheet metal should be ok. Make sure to not over do it. You want it even at best, but very small gap is OK. Then, you can screw the ply to the frame.
 
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