Tank Repair Brainstorming

SkiFletch

New member
With all my livestock living in a trough in the basement (God bless farmers...) I'm taking these next couple weeks to re-hab a bunch of my hardware. I've cleaned/drained/scrubbed/etc the the display and in so doing found quite the troublesome problem with it. My tank is an older 65g. The previous owner had removed the black plastic center brace and replaced it with a glass brace, 4" wide and 1/2" thick. That brace is now no longer secured and the tank is of course at risk of over-bowing and breaking were it filled with water (currently dry).

And so I'm left with a decision to make on how to offer more bracing. The way I see it, there are 4 ways to do this. First, the "simplest" method would be to fully remove the glass brace, clean up all the silicone, clean the joints, and re-glue it. This option offers the easy, I have all the parts solution, but it does come with drawbacks. Most namely it restricts my access to the overflow box significantly, and any form of center brace makes getting things in/out of the tank a pain, and also makes cleaning/working in it a pain.

2nd option would be to make my own "thin" brace by welding some stainless rod to some stainless angle. My hood overhangs and would hide the stainless, and that would certainly never break. It would allow me relative unfettered access to the overflow box, but would still be in the way for cleaning the tank and/or working in it. I have all the tools/experience to do this, and in some ways it's almost "easier" than option 1. Cut 3 pieces of steel, gob up a weld, done.

3rd option is to go with a glass "euro" style brace system. Where say a 2" wide rim of glass is added to the entire inside edge of the aquarium. This offers the torsional strength so it doesn't bow. This option would by far be the slickest/cleanest, but I'd have to get someone to make/cut the glass custom. That might get expensive fast... I really have no experience how much custom glass like that costs? Assembly is easy/straightforward, and the benefit is unfettered access to the overflow, AND no center brace.

Final option is another "slick" one that I'm not sure if it would even work... Replace the old black plastic brace with welded stainless steel angle, or perhaps even u-channel. If I stick to just about the same thickness material, my hood would still fit and I'd have serious torsional strength. It would basically be a eurobrace of stianless steel, but of course thinner and even less obtrusive. Would cost me about $50 in parts, and welding it would be tricky for sure, but man it would look cool.


So anybody that made it this far, do you have any other ideas? Maybe I'm missing something? Perhaps on some corner of the web someone sells something pre-made for this? If none of those, which one of my ideas would you do, assuming you had the skills to do any?
 
I suppose that would be possible, but to be honest, I'd rather just go with option 2 as the "stock" ones are flimsy and brittle plastic in the first place...
 
It's an AGA, all nice and drilled and fitted the way I like it. A new tank in Rochester isn't quite in the cards
 
Replacing the entire brace with a new one might not be the simplest. Ever try to remove an existing plastic brace? Not so easy.

I like option two as far as simplicity goes.

For what its worth though, a buddy of mine ran a standard 4' 55g with no center brace for years with an alligator gar. Bowed like crazy, never broke. Not recommended, just for reference.
 
Peel the old trim off and do the eurobracing. The trim is already junk so you can just have at it and bust it the rest of the way to get it off. A good sharp sheetrock knife and some pliers and you will be all set. Stainless isn't going to be all that stainless around saltwater after you weld it unless you passivate it and use good material. The reason the old brace failed was that silicone doesn't stick to plastic very well, so that would be the last thing I would redo. You'd be better off fastening a thin acrylic crossbrace to the existing trim with bolts rather than siliconing the glass back to it.
 
I had a very nice reference link that discussed different grades of stainless steel and there corrosion resistance to saltwater but I can't find it now. I recall grades 304 and 316 will corrode in saltwater environments. There are specialty grades that hold up well, but I can't remember the type and I'm pretty sure a new tank would be cheaper. Good luck.
 
Really, 316 rusts in seawater? I havent seen that yet, and we abuse 316 all the time here at work. 304, not so much, but 316 IME is extremely resistant to seawater. Heck, we have a 316ss immersion bath that's 50+ years old that has spent plenty of it's life with seawater in it. Not a drop of rust from the tub. A little from the bolts we may or may not have dropped to the bottom and left too long ;)
 
Found it :)

Found it :)

It took a little while, but I found the reference I referred to above. Unfortunately, since I last read it a few years ago, the useful charts don't seem to show. According to this source, 316 will corrode in saltwater at temps above 30degC. Of course, that's well above our reef tank temps, so you should be fine in your application. In your tub at work, maybe the spots left by the bolts were caused by galvanic corrosion? Anyhow, I found this an interesting read when I dug into this stuff several years ago.

http://www.assda.asn.au/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=152
 
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