tap water filter

[spotfin]

I have a few questions about my Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Tap Water Filter. The first time I used it, the white sponge (separating the carbon from the resin) and the bottom 1/3 of the resin immediately changed black in color. It happened in a matter of seconds. I have since made about 25 or so gallons of water with the filter and almost all of the resin is now black. It seems to me that the change in color is the result of carbon dust working its way upward. Has anyone experienced this with their filter? Could it be from the carbon? The instructions say the resin changes to purple when exhausted. Does it change to a dark purple? I tested the GH and KH of the filtered water and they are still significantly lower than water straight from the tap. Thanks.

 

[ufans]

It is probably the carbon. You probably should have rinsed it first. It shouldn't hurt anything unless it is prevent the water from interacting with the DI resin. The GH and KH shouldn't really matter.... assuming you are testing the "pure" unsalted water with a saltwater test kit. The goal of the filter is to reduce the Nitrate, Ammonia, Phosophate, and some metals. If you want to see if it is really working then use a conductivity/TDS meter. The less sophisticated way is to test the Nitrate and Ammonia since those are the most dangerous things that you are trying to remove with the filter.

When/if you ever get serious about saltwater invest in a RO/DI system. It is well worth the investment, produce GREAT water, and saves tons of time.

 

[graveyardworm]

For some reason I never noticed carbon in mine, you are talking about the DI filter right? What I did notice was that when the resin had changed about half way up it would start to leach silicates.

 

[ufans]

Even RO/DI systems have problems with silicates. They are a pain. The good thing is that they don't effect fish, corals, inverts, and most aglae. The biggest problem with silicates are diatoms.

 

[shelburn61]

Yes it is carbon dust. If turn the water flow up too high, the pressure will distort the foam pad and let carbon dust through. No big deal unless you plan to recharge the resin. You might try opening the cannister and using a probe to fix the foam. You should also check out this link and the one at the bottom of the link:
http://lgonzalez.net/aquatics/deionizer.html

I rigged up a 3-stage rechargeable system that gives me 0TDS.

 

[spotfin]

Thanks everyone for your input. Guess I need to be more careful with the water pressure.
Yes graveyardworm, it is a DI filter. I haven't check the silicate level of the product water. I use well water and there are some silicates in it.
Maybe I should invest in a TDS meter to check the water. I have been using a GH/KH kit. The filter has greatly reduced these levels. My water isn't too hard to begin with.
Zo has set up a nice system. Wonder how much work it is to maintain it.