I currently have a 37g with a 10 gallon sump, which is about 1 month old now with a pair of Gladiator Clownfish in it right now. I have a few questions about test kits. I am currently using basic API test kits for Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, which i used to verify the cycle. Now that i really dont test much for Ammonia, Nitrite, I have been using the Nitrate test much more often. Gotta say i really dont like API's Nitrate test.... I want something that is very easy to read. Currently, my Nitrates are between 20-40, as the colors between 20-40 are very hard to differentiate. So far from some research, it seems Salifert makes good test kits. Would you recommend Salifert Nitrate, Calcium, Alkalinity, and Magnesium test kits? So far from what I can see is most people are choosing Red Sea and Salifert. Would their be much of a point right now of purchasing Calcium, Alk and Mag test kits right now as I wont have corals for several months in till i know my tank is fully mature? Would you guys say their Nitrate test kit is easy to read and accurate? Also another small question is do you recommend doing 20% water changes weekly on this tank to help bring nitrates down, as the nitrates are somewhere between 20-40ppm, everything else zero, as i want to add another fish and some CUC (like cleaner shrimp and snails) here soon as my clowns have been in the tank for 3 weeks now. Thanks for the responses!
Test Kits
- Thread starter Nick30G
- Start date
The API kits are good to start off, but not accurate enough long-term. You don't need Ammonia and Nitrite after you are cycled, so don't worry about those.
I know they have a good reputation but I personally don't like the Salifert tests at all. They might be accurate, but they sure feel bare bones and cheap. The Red Sea Pro test kits are incredible for conventional titration tests. You get a nice case, metal vials, color-coded tips for each reagent and a titration tool. The Hanna Checkers for alk/ca/phosphorus are the best, of course, but they cost you. I have all three of those in Hanna but I would probably just stick to Alk/Phosphorus if I were doing it over again. CA accuracy isn't all that important, you just need to make sure it is not in some extreme zone and the Hanna requires a bit of effort to use for how rarely I test CA.
So my personal recommendation is to use Red Sea kits anywhere that you don't want to splurge on the Hanna Checker
I know they have a good reputation but I personally don't like the Salifert tests at all. They might be accurate, but they sure feel bare bones and cheap. The Red Sea Pro test kits are incredible for conventional titration tests. You get a nice case, metal vials, color-coded tips for each reagent and a titration tool. The Hanna Checkers for alk/ca/phosphorus are the best, of course, but they cost you. I have all three of those in Hanna but I would probably just stick to Alk/Phosphorus if I were doing it over again. CA accuracy isn't all that important, you just need to make sure it is not in some extreme zone and the Hanna requires a bit of effort to use for how rarely I test CA.
So my personal recommendation is to use Red Sea kits anywhere that you don't want to splurge on the Hanna Checker
newbie2014
New member
Concerning Nitrate test.........BRSTV has a comparison video in which they set out to compare Salifert, Redsea and Nyos. However, they had to disqualify the Salifert because the redesigned color chart made it hard to determine Nirate level.
The API Nitrate test is cumbersome to perform. But, IMO, is consistent. Same with their Alk test.
The API Nitrate test is cumbersome to perform. But, IMO, is consistent. Same with their Alk test.
mcgyvr
New member
Thats my complaint with it.. I can't tell if my nitrates are 5 or 25 with it.. The pinks are all just way too close..
Nyos is much easier to tell the difference from my experience..
mcgyvr
New member
In a tank with corals thats basically true.. If its the lowest range (yellow - 10ppm) then you are fine.. anything else and you need to get to work reducing it..
But with a tank without corals you can certainly maintain higher levels of nitrates with little to no harm to anything..
d0ughb0y
Active member
It can cause nuisance algae. not to mention the need to clean your glass a lot more often. having said that, if you don't need really low nitrate, you can just use the presence or lack of algae as indicator.
Do you recommend at this point for me 25% water changes weekly to help get my nitrates down. My API kit says 20-40ppm (hard to tell difference between colors). Because i plan on this being a mixed reef and will be getting corals in a few months and some inverts soon.
mcgyvr
New member
Water changes are the best way to lower nitrate levels..
Now.. Then there is also preventing them from creeping back up again..
And may ways to prevent/help with that..
A 50% water change "should" reduce nitrate levels by 50%.. 25% by 25%,etc.. I think you get that point..
A 50% one time is better than 2 x 25% water changes..
I also find that after a tank "matures" a bit (typically 8-10 month mark or so) nitrate levels are much easier to keep low as sufficient bacterial populations are present and doing work deep in the low oxygen areas of a tank..
