The bad luck continues
- Thread starter Shellyfish
- Start date
TampaReefer79
Premium Member
This word LUCK keeps getting tossed about. NOTHING in this thread that has been mentioned is the result of 'luck', not good or bad. You can either chose to qt your fish/corals and therefore not transfer parasites and other nasties to your display...or not. By NOT qt'ing corals, you could end up with semi-harmless flatworms, acropora eating flatworms, redbugs, monti eating nudis, etc etc etc. By not qt'ing fish you can bring in fungal infections and parasites among other things.
'Good luck' is winning the lottery or having a winning BINGO card...things of 'chance'. Even a heater blowing up isn't 'bad luck', it's just one of those things that can happen. Had the previous qt'ing been done, the heater wouldn't have caused an issue.
Shellyfish
New member
Well if a heater blowing up isn't bad luck and is just one of those things, then I can't see how you can consider luck having anything to do with the lottery. That would be just one of those things too.
My 2 cents: Sk8r is 100% correct with the hypo. All I would add is use some ph buffer. The lower salinity may cause ph problems otherwise.
As far as DT tanks go, it is absolutely necessary for long-term success. However, the tank really should be fully cycled to be helpful. Massive water changes and spikes in ammonia do not help at all. This is why many fish do not do well in QT imho.
As far as DT tanks go, it is absolutely necessary for long-term success. However, the tank really should be fully cycled to be helpful. Massive water changes and spikes in ammonia do not help at all. This is why many fish do not do well in QT imho.
MrTuskfish
Team RC
Very true and not mentioned enough, IMO. Here's a copy explaining how I've cycled QTs for many years; never any ammonia problems.
"In regards to Qt cycling; I've done this for years. Get a HOB filter; I really like Aqua-Clear, they have a big sponge and last forever. Don't use the carbon or ceramic noodles that come with the filter. Also, have some extra sponges on hand, they're cheap. Keep a sponge in the flow somewhere in your DT. When you need a QT or HT, just use the sponge that has been in your main system in your QT filter---the QT will be instantly cycled. When done, toss the sponge and keep a new one ready in your main system.
BTW, Cupramine copper, used in a QT,will not destroy a bio-filter".
Shellyfish
New member
That what I did, I had some sponges in the filter of my display so I just used one of those. I'm hoping to avoid ammonia issues as well but I will be monitoring that!
MrTuskfish
Team RC
If the sponges had good flow through them in your DT and they do in your QT (via a HOB, etc.), you should be fine. The ammonia removing bacteria does need good oxygen that comes with good water flow. I've heard of the sponges just being tossed into a DT, that probably won't work well.
Shellyfish
New member
Well, there was good flow in the DT and the sponge is now in an aquaclear filter on the QT tank. There are however 5 fish in a 20g tank so that might be a heavier bioload. I measured ammonia last night and did a water change, will check again tonight and repeat water change if needed. The fish look fine though, not stressed, eating like pigs and no longer itchy!
MrTuskfish
Team RC
Good! Your tank should be able to handle the bio-load now. Aerobic bacteria multiplies very fast when any ammonia is present. Don't make the mistake one person did; he put the sponge back back in his DT. Disaster. From now on, just keep an Aqua Clear sponge in your DTs filtration system and you're all set for next time you need QT.
Shellyfish
New member
I normally use prime to condition my water. I'm keeping a close eye on the fish, they are active, not itchy and eating like pigs
MrTuskfish
Team RC
I was never aware of this, thanks!
Either was I but then again, I have never used cupramine before. Thanks for the heads up. Is this something you learned from experience or does it say it on the bottle? I don't remember reading this on the Prime bottle.
Jim
Shellyfish
New member
Anyone know if cupramine affects ammonia readings? My ammonia is consistently staying at .5mg/l despite my water changes. Fish do not seem affected by it at all. Their appetites are ravenous and they are looking good.
One more question, all the spots that were white on my yellow tang are now black. Is this damage from the parasite or is this something new?
One more question, all the spots that were white on my yellow tang are now black. Is this damage from the parasite or is this something new?
When my regal tang had ich as the white spots disappeared black spots appeared in their place, in my case they were like small flesh wounds from the parasite but went away within 12-24 hours. However I read somewhere about black spots being some kind of worm. I don't know much about that.
Shellyfish
New member
I just noticed the spots today, I have never seen them before. 2 days ago he was covered in white spots so I'm hoping they are just from the ich and not the black ich I just finished looking at on google!
Shellyfish
New member
I did, I'm hoping it's not that. It just seems strange that it wasn't there until all the white spots were gone.
Cupramine is best and really only well tested by the copper test made by the same manufacturer. Cupramine uses amonia in its chemistry- so if you use a ammonia remover- it will make the copper level toxic. This ammonia also shows up on some test kits as free ammonia which it is not- therefor people sometimes will see a false ammonia reading on the test kit- add a ammonia remover- and kill their fish with the resultant spike in copper.
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